Thu
15 Jun
2017
Nature has placed a lot of open sea between Iceland and Jan Mayen. It is about 460 miles from Isafjördur to Kvalrossbukta, and a sailing boat is not a race horse. Expect the crossing to take three days, and that is exactly what it was for us. Three days in a 60 foot boat on high sea are not everybody’s cup of tea. People can grow their sea legs or find out that they do not have any, and it does take some patience, especially if you find out that reading a book does not make you feel better while the boat is moving. Occasionally, we see some dolphins or a whale. The constant headwinds are not too strong, but still, they do not make the boat faster or our life on board better.
Everybody surfaces again after three days, as Jan Mayen appears from the clouds. Not more than a shadow to begin with, the shadows turn into slopes and cliffs, and finally we have Kvalrossbukta ahead of us, the destination of our dreams, or rather: where our dreams are to start.
People and materials are soon brought ashore and tents are put up – as mentioned, solid architecture is important, and quite a few lava rocks and driftwood logs are moved to anchor the tents safely.
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It happens that we are not alone, at least for a couple of hours: the supply ship of the Norwegian station is in the bay, the bow parked on the beach which is surprisingly calm. Pallet after pallet of supplies and materials of all kinds are taken to the shore and transported to the station, which is on the other side of the island. In the evening, the ship leaves and we are on our own in our little basecamp.