P.S. TLDR? Too long, don’t feel like rea­ding, rather get straight to the point? At the bot­tom of the post are the links to the new pages: Akseløya, Mid­ter­huk­ham­na and the old mines on the north side of Advent­fjord.

The last few weeks have once again been jam-packed, but it was worth it, working on the new edi­ti­on of the Spits­ber­gen gui­de­book. More on this in a few weeks from now.

Polar night atmo­sphe­re in Advent­da­len.
The pic­tu­re shows the illu­mi­na­ted cor­ner sta­ti­on of the old coal-fired cable car at End­a­len.

At the same time, I have been working on a cou­ple of pages dedi­ca­ted to cer­tain are­as and indi­vi­du­al loca­ti­ons on Spits­ber­gen. After all, that’s whe­re you can tra­vel online, get­ting to fan­ta­stic places with just a mous­eclick which other­wi­se are dif­fi­cult to reach, if at all.

Hint of a nor­t­hern light over Lon­gye­ar­by­en.

The­se include, among others, four pages that tog­e­ther illus­tra­te the lar­gest more or less con­ti­guous monu­ment of indus­tri­al histo­ry in Spits­ber­gen, name­ly the mining land­scape from the ear­ly 20th cen­tu­ry on the north side of Advent­fjord:

• Advent City was the first ever attempt on Spits­ber­gen to mine coal indus­tri­al­ly.
• Hior­th­hamn fol­lo­wed a few years later and is one of Svalbard’s most remar­kab­le cul­tu­ral monu­ments from the pio­nee­ring days of coal mining with its shore­li­ne com­plex.
• Sne­heim is the old mine belon­ging to Hior­th­hamn. At an alti­tu­de of 582 met­res on Hiorth­fjel­let, incre­di­ble!
• The old mess and accom­mo­da­ti­on area “Ørne­re­det” is part of the Sne­heim mine, the old mine belon­ging to Hior­th­hamn.

Also new are the pages about Rus­selt­ved­tod­den (ever heard of that?) at the sou­thern end of Akseløya (ah of cour­se … the beau­tiful Akseløya in Bell­sund) and Mid­ter­huk­ham­na. And the­re are brand new pages dedi­ca­ted to Sas­senfjord respec­tively Tem­pel­fjord. Oh yes, don’t for­get a quick trip to Agardhbuk­ta on the east coast 🙂

The moon abo­ve the old cable car cent­re in Lon­gye­ar­by­en.

A few weeks ago, I wro­te about Record mel­ting of Svalbard’s gla­ciers in 2024, on this site, focus­sing on con­se­quen­ces of cli­ma­te chan­ge on land.

But of cour­se the chan­ges are not limi­t­ed to the land; the sea is also affec­ted. Or, per­haps more accu­ra­te­ly, it plays a major, dri­ving role.

The Gulf Stream

In the North Atlan­tic, much is known to depend on the Gulf Stream. With its com­pa­ra­tively warm water mas­ses, it brings enorm­ous amounts of heat from the south and thus ensu­res the rela­tively mild cli­ma­te in the hig­hest lati­tu­des such as 78 degrees north, whe­re the Isfjord today remains lar­ge­ly ice-free all year round, while some fjords in nor­t­hern­most Green­land or Cana­da (Elles­me­re Island) only beco­me ice-free brief­ly in sum­mer or not at all.

Even small chan­ges in the Gulf Stream have a mas­si­ve impact on the regio­nal cli­ma­te in the north-east Atlan­tic. If the Gulf Stream brings a litt­le more warm water or if the water is a litt­le war­mer, the North Atlan­tic will beco­me con­sider­a­b­ly war­mer. If the sup­p­ly of warm water decrea­ses or no lon­ger rea­ches as far north, a regio­nal coo­ling could also occur that could affect the who­le of north-west Euro­pe. In the long term, this sce­na­rio can­not be ruled out as part of cli­ma­te chan­ge, but the oppo­si­te is curr­ent­ly the case.

Kongsfjord

Jør­gen Ber­ge from the Uni­ver­si­ty of Trom­sø has been kee­ping a clo­se eye on Kongsfjord for more than 20 years. As the rese­arch sett­le­ment of Ny-Åle­sund is loca­ted in Kongsfjord, this fjord has been stu­di­ed clo­se­ly for a long time, with deca­des of data available on all kinds of details. In addi­ti­on, the fjord is loca­ted on the part of the west coast that is most stron­gly influen­ced by the Gulf Stream, so it can ser­ve as an ear­ly war­ning sys­tem for chan­ges in the­se curr­ents and their local effects.

Kongsfjord near Ny-Åle­sund: an ocea­no­gra­phic and mari­ne bio­lo­gy rese­arch labo­ra­to­ry.

Ber­ge told Barents­ob­ser­ver about his work and obser­va­tions. The result anti­ci­pa­ted: a ‘radi­cal chan­ge in the mari­ne eco­sys­tem.’

Accor­ding to Ber­ge, the water mas­ses in the Kongsfjord are warm­ing by 0.1 degrees per year across the enti­re water column, i.e. by no less than 2 degrees in just 20 years. Two degrees is quite enough to dra­sti­cal­ly chan­ge the ocea­no­gra­phic-eco­lo­gi­cal cha­rac­ter of a sea area – and the warm­ing does not stop. The cha­rac­ter of the Kongsfjord has chan­ged from ‘arc­tic’ to ‘Atlan­tic’ during this time. In ocea­no­gra­phic terms, this initi­al­ly means that the water is war­mer and sal­tier.

The eco­sys­tem: plank­ton and sea­birds

Of cour­se, this is not wit­hout con­se­quen­ces for the eco­sys­tem. High-arc­tic, fat-rich plank­ton such as the cope­pod Cala­nus gla­cia­lis is incre­asing­ly being dis­pla­ced by its sub­arc­tic and less fat-rich rela­ti­ves Cala­nus finn­mar­chi­cus and Cala­nus hyper­bor­eus, which has con­se­quen­ces for sea­birds that feed on plank­ton. The high Arc­tic Litt­le auks in par­ti­cu­lar, which used to be – and still are, as of now – very num­e­rous, pre­fer to feed on the ener­gy-rich Cala­nus gla­cia­lis. If they have to rely more and more on their less ener­gy-rich rela­ti­ves, their diet will beco­me incre­asing­ly pro­ble­ma­tic.

Litt­le auks on the west coast of Spits­ber­gen.

Recent histo­ry shows that the bree­ding popu­la­ti­ons of sea­birds are shrin­king almost ever­y­whe­re in the North Atlan­tic. The litt­le auks still seem to be doing quite well, but it is very dif­fi­cult to count the­se very small birds that breed invi­si­bly under rocks. The case is clear for guil­l­emots, puf­fins and gulls, whe­re some colo­nies in nor­t­hern Nor­way have prac­ti­cal­ly col­lap­sed sin­ce the 1980s. Dis­ap­peared.

Fjord ice: rin­ged seals and har­bour seals

Ano­ther aspect is that the Kongsfjord has hard­ly fro­zen over for around 15 years. Rin­ged seals, once the most num­e­rous seals in the fjords of Spits­ber­gen, need the fjord ice in spring to give birth to their young and to rest. The har­bour seal, which is also known from the sou­thern North Sea, is now much more com­mon on the west coast of Sval­bard than the rin­ged seal, which is very simi­lar in appearance. Seals have been natu­ral­ly occur­ring in Sval­bard for thou­sands of years and this obser­va­ti­on may be coin­ci­den­tal, but it fits in with the sci­en­ti­fi­cal­ly con­firm­ed deve­lo­p­ment of the fjords from a high­ly arc­tic eco­sys­tem to an Atlan­tic one.

High Arc­tic rin­ged seal (left), sub­arc­tic har­bour seal.
Both live on the west coast of Spits­ber­gen.

Fish, mus­sels and tem­pe­ra­tu­re records

Ber­ge also speaks of a chan­ge in the spe­ci­es com­po­si­ti­on of fish and mus­sels. Spe­ci­es such as her­ring and cape­lin, which one would not expect to find in high Arc­tic fjords, are spre­a­ding, as are mus­sels.

More and more com­mon in Sval­bard: blue mus­sels.

Glo­bal warm­ing is more noti­ceable at the poles than at lower lati­tu­des; it is esti­ma­ted that the Arc­tic is warm­ing by a fac­tor of three to four more than other regi­ons. If one hopes that cli­ma­te chan­ge can somehow still be limi­t­ed to a warm­ing of 1.5-2 degrees, then this figu­re is the glo­bal avera­ge. For the Arc­tic, you can mul­ti­ply that by three or four.

In recent years, record tem­pe­ra­tures have been regu­lar­ly mea­su­red in Sval­bard, most recent­ly on 11 August at 20.3 degrees, the hig­hest value ever mea­su­red on an August day near Lon­gye­ar­by­en.

Even the pre­vious­ly high Arc­tic fjords in the north-east of Sval­bard will not remain unaf­fec­ted by this deve­lo­p­ment. This is con­firm­ed both by a regu­lar look at the ice map and by per­so­nal expe­ri­ence in the fjords of Nord­aus­t­land and in Hin­lo­pen Strait, whe­re the pre­vious­ly wide­spread water tem­pe­ra­tures of around 0 degrees are now rather rare and small-sca­le, espe­ci­al­ly in the sou­thern Hin­lo­pen Strait and on the sou­thern side of Nord­aus­t­land, whe­re the cold East Spits­ber­gen Cur­rent from the Arc­tic Basin is still exer­ting its influence. In the nor­t­hern Hin­lo­pen Strait and in the fjords in the west and north of Nord­aus­t­land and up to Sjuøya­ne, water tem­pe­ra­tures of 6-8 degrees are incre­asing­ly com­mon, indi­ca­ting the incre­asing influence of mild Atlan­tic water (Gulf Stream).

Rare­ly ice-free in the past, now regu­lar­ly in sum­mer:
Fjords on the north coast of Nord­aus­t­land.

The Arc­tic Oce­an: from white to blue

The sea ice of the Arc­tic Oce­an is both a vic­tim and a dri­ver of this deve­lo­p­ment. This is one of tho­se feed­back effects in the glo­bal cli­ma­te sys­tem whe­re the effect rein­forces the cau­se. In this case, an area of water that has beco­me ice-free due to warm­ing no lon­ger reflects the sun’s rays, but absorbs them and con­verts them into heat, which in turn melts even more ice and even lar­ger are­as of water absorb the sun’s rays … and so it goes on.

Accor­ding to a stu­dy recent­ly published in Natu­re Com­mu­ni­ca­ti­ons, the Arc­tic Oce­an could beco­me ice-free on a dai­ly basis by around 2030. This stu­dy is the first to look at the deve­lo­p­ment on a dai­ly rather than a month­ly basis. The Arc­tic Oce­an could the­r­e­fo­re be ice-free on a dai­ly basis in a few years’ time if warm win­ters with litt­le ice for­ma­ti­on are fol­lo­wed by warm ear­ly sum­mers with high ice loss.

The Arc­tic Oce­an of the future: incre­asing­ly blue ins­tead of white.

On the other hand, the stu­dy also descri­bes sce­na­ri­os accor­ding to which an ice-free Arc­tic Oce­an will not be obser­ved by the year 2100. Both pos­si­bi­li­ties are rather extre­me sce­na­ri­os; the real deve­lo­p­ment may lie some­whe­re in bet­ween. Or not, the extre­me sce­na­ri­os are also pos­si­ble accor­ding to the sci­en­ti­fic models.

As Jør­gen Ber­ge told Barents­ob­ser­ver: ‘It is likely that the cen­tral Arc­tic Oce­an will evol­ve from a white (ice-cover­ed) oce­an to a blue (open water) oce­an. What that means, we don’t know.’

It will hard­ly sur­pri­se anyo­ne, con­side­ring the warm sum­mer with new tem­pe­ra­tu­re records, such as the war­mest tem­pe­ra­tu­re ever mea­su­red in Sval­bard in August: the arc­tic gla­ciers have suf­fe­r­ed mas­si­ve­ly this year. Espe­ci­al­ly in Sval­bard, whe­re cli­ma­te chan­ge is hap­pe­ning seven (!) times fas­ter than the glo­bal avera­ge, as gla­cio­lo­gist Emma Wad­ham from the Uni­ver­si­ty of Trom­sø told the Barents Obser­ver. Just on 23 July 2024, a record-warm day, the gla­ciers lost 55 mil­li­me­t­res of water equi­va­lent or five times the nor­mal value, accor­ding to cli­ma­to­lo­gist Xavier Fett­weis from the Uni­ver­si­ty of Liè­ge, who ana­ly­sed satel­li­te images. And that was just one day in a week-long peri­od in which tem­pe­ra­tures were on avera­ge around 4 degrees abo­ve the long-term avera­ge for this peri­od.

Melt­wa­ter on a gla­cier sur­face.

The trend towards mel­ting is par­ti­cu­lar­ly pro­no­un­ced in Sval­bard, but it is pre­sent throug­hout the Arc­tic. The loss of ice on land in turn has feed­back effects on the cli­ma­te: land absorbs more solar radia­ti­on than ice and snow and the­r­e­fo­re warms up even fas­ter; to a les­ser ext­ent, this also appli­es to expo­sed ice com­pared to snow.

Edge of a small ice cap on Storøya in nor­the­ast Sval­bard. Num­e­rous small melt­wa­ter chan­nels are visi­ble on the sur­face of the ice cap. Wet firn and expo­sed ice absorb more solar radia­ti­on than dry, white snow, which leads to increased mel­ting. The ice-free land that is now expo­sed next to the ice cap is also bet­ter able to con­vert solar radia­ti­on into heat.

The impact on the mari­ne eco­sys­tem is yet ano­ther issue: incre­asing amounts of sedi­ment-laden melt­wa­ter are flowing into the pre­vious­ly most­ly clear water of the fjords and coas­tal waters. Due to its sedi­ment load, the melt­wa­ter is mur­ky and opaque, allo­wing litt­le light to pass through. This in turn has an impact on algae growth, which is depen­dent on light for pho­to­syn­the­sis.

Melt­wa­ter with sedi­ment load at Mona­co­b­reen in Lief­defjord.

But the chan­ges of the mari­ne eco­sys­tem of the Arc­tic are ano­ther sto­ry. More about that later.

On Thurs­day (Novem­ber 21) the Nor­we­gi­an Par­lia­ment in Oslo, the Stort­ing, has pas­sed the new Sval­bard­mel­ding ange­nom­men. The Sval­bard­mel­ding is a govern­ment stra­tegy paper that out­lines the Sval­bard poli­tics for the next 5-10 years. It includes thus no con­cre­te legal mea­su­res but rather a set of inten­ti­ons and ide­as which have to be dis­cus­sed and tur­ned into laws in the future.

Let’s take a step back. Nor­we­gi­an Sval­bard poli­tics is based on the fol­lo­wing five prin­ci­ples:

• A con­sis­tent, con­stant main­ten­an­ce of Nor­we­gi­an sove­reig­n­ty.
• Com­pli­ance with the Sval­bard Trea­ty and moni­to­ring its imple­men­ta­ti­on.
• Main­tai­ning calm and sta­bi­li­ty.
• Pro­tec­tion of the region’s natu­re.
• Main­tainan­ce of a Nor­we­gi­an popu­la­ti­on.

Nor­we­gi­an flags in Lon­gye­ar­by­en (on the Nor­we­gi­an natio­nal day on 17 May): Lon­gye­ar­by­en and all of Sval­bard are and will remain Nor­we­gi­an. But the govern­ment would pre­fer to have a hig­her pro­por­ti­on of Nor­we­gi­ans among­st Longyearbyen’s popu­la­ti­on. Sys­sel­mes­ter Lars Fau­se (front right) is the hig­hest repre­sen­ta­ti­ve of the Nor­we­gi­an govern­ment on site.

And what’s in it?

Quite a lot, the docu­ment has more than 80 pages. You can down­load it on the government’s web­site.

And the govern­ment has alre­a­dy imple­men­ted seve­ral major legal pro­jects in the recent past, inclu­ding a reform of the local elec­to­ral law that cost many for­eign voters their local voting rights. The new rules for tou­rists that come into force on 01 Janu­ary, 2025 are ano­ther important new set of legis­la­ti­on. Ener­gy and housing are other important topics that have been work­ed on for years alre­a­dy on various levels, see below.

Some important points of the new Sval­bard­mel­ding:

Men­tal health

The­re are peo­p­le with men­tal health pro­blems all over the world and Sval­bard is of cour­se no excep­ti­on. Howe­ver, tho­se who are con­fron­ted with acu­te men­tal health pro­blems in Lon­gye­ar­by­en have very limi­t­ed access to pro­fes­sio­nal help. This may have cost two peo­p­le their lives in the recent past: the­re have been two sui­ci­des in Lon­gye­ar­by­en in 2023.

It is main­ly thanks to the com­mit­ment of Longyearbyen’s poli­ti­cal youth that the govern­ment wants to impro­ve this situa­ti­on, but accor­ding to them, applau­de is not due befo­re a psy­cho­lo­gist is actual­ly instal­led in Lon­gye­ar­by­en, accor­ding to NRK.

Air­freight

This is not about same day deli­very to the final con­su­mer. But a sup­p­ly of goods of all kinds, inclu­ding fresh pro­du­ce accor­ding to modern stan­dards, should be available in Lon­gye­ar­by­en all year round. The­re had been some dis­cus­sion and uncer­tain­ty sur­roun­ding the Nor­we­gi­an Post’s freight flights to Lon­gye­ar­by­en. Now the govern­ment is pro­vi­ding money to main­tain freight flight logi­stics, which of cour­se invol­ve more than just app­les and bana­nas. Howe­ver, it remains to be seen how this will be orga­nis­ed in the long term.

Emp­ty shel­ves in Sval­bard­bu­tik­ken (Coop Sval­bard) in Lon­gye­ar­by­en:
not unhe­ard of, but unde­si­red.

Low taxes

Sval­bard is and shall con­ti­nue to be a low-tax area. The back­ground to this lies in the Sval­bard Trea­ty; in short, Nor­way as a sta­te should not bene­fit from taxes and duties. The­r­e­fo­re, the­re is no VAT on Sval­bard and other taxes and duties are also often lower than on the main­land. This should gene­ral­ly stay as it is, but adjus­t­ments are pos­si­ble.

Housing and popu­la­ti­on

Things are likely to get much more exci­ting for many here. The govern­ment wants to free­ze the size of Lon­gye­ar­by­en at the level befo­re the dead­ly ava­lan­che on 19 Decem­ber 2015, and Lon­gye­ar­by­en should not grow bey­ond that. And the govern­ment wants the Nor­we­gi­an share of the popu­la­ti­on to increase.

House buil­ding in Lon­gye­ar­by­en. The impres­si­on that the town is gro­wing is wrong:
it is about repla­cing what has been lost sin­ce 2015.

Accor­ding to the Nor­we­gi­an Cen­tral Sta­tis­ti­cal Office (SSB), 2595 peo­p­le curr­ent­ly live in Lon­gye­ar­by­en and Ny-Åle­sund, inclu­ding 1621 Nor­we­gi­ans, i.e. around 63%. The lat­ter is not enough for the govern­ment. In fact, the pro­por­ti­on of Nor­we­gi­ans in the popu­la­ti­on has been fal­ling for years, which is part­ly due to the clo­sure of Nor­we­gi­an coal mines in Sveagru­va and Lon­gye­ar­by­en: In the­se well-paid and pre­vious­ly secu­re indus­tri­al jobs, a high pro­por­ti­on of the work­force was Nor­we­gi­an. The stra­tegy for­mu­la­ted in ear­lier Sval­bard stra­tegy papers of repla­cing mining with hig­her edu­ca­ti­on, rese­arch and tou­rism has pro­ved to be coun­ter­pro­duc­ti­ve from the government’s point of view, as the jobs in the­se are­as are much more inter­na­tio­nal than tho­se in mining. The govern­ment wants to take coun­ter­me­a­su­res here (com­ment: the rules that come into force on 1 Janu­ary 2025 should also be seen in this light; the poli­ti­cal dis­ap­point­ment over the rela­tively low Nor­we­gi­an share of the jobs crea­ted in tou­rism is likely to be at least as important as envi­ron­men­tal pro­tec­tion, which is pro­ba­b­ly more of a pre­text here). End of com­ment).

Housing poli­cy, which has long been a hot topic in Lon­gye­ar­by­en, which is cha­rac­te­ri­sed by a housing shorta­ge, has been a tool used by the govern­ment for a while now to increase the Nor­we­gi­an share of the total popu­la­ti­on: Even though the over­all sup­p­ly of housing is not expec­ted to exceed the 2015 level, the res­truc­tu­ring that ine­vi­ta­b­ly occur­red after the ava­lan­ches in 2015 and 2017 (over 100 flats were clas­si­fied as at risk of ava­lan­ches and accor­din­gly demo­lished) also pro­vi­des an oppor­tu­ni­ty to reor­ga­ni­se owner­ship. The pri­va­te housing mar­ket is being redu­ced and the pro­por­ti­on of sta­te-owned housing is gro­wing in favour of employees of lar­ge, direct­ly or indi­rect­ly state/public actors, whe­re the pro­por­ti­on of Nor­we­gi­an workers is hig­her than in the ser­vice sec­tor, for exam­p­le. The­se actors include Lokals­ty­re (muni­ci­pal admi­nis­tra­ti­on), Sys­sel­mes­ter, UNIS, Fol­kehøgs­ko­le (edu­ca­ti­on) and others.

In addi­ti­on, living in Lon­gye­ar­by­en should remain attrac­ti­ve, espe­ci­al­ly for the Nor­we­gi­an popu­la­ti­on. And the­re is litt­le doubt that the­re is need for action here, as the avera­ge length of stay in Lon­gye­ar­by­en, which is alre­a­dy cha­rac­te­ri­sed by a high level of fluc­tua­ti­on, is fal­ling.

Ener­gy

And what good is the nicest flat if the­re is no power from the socket and the hea­ting stays cold? It’s not that bad, but the sce­na­rio can­not be ruled out in the small town of Lon­gye­ar­by­en, who­se ener­gy sup­p­ly is cha­rac­te­ri­sed by the fact that it is not part of a supra-regio­nal grid. The sub­ject of ener­gy has long been a hot topic of dis­cus­sion in Lon­gye­ar­by­en. On the one hand, it is about the sharp rise in pri­ces for elec­tri­ci­ty and dis­trict hea­ting, but also about secu­ri­ty of sup­p­ly and whe­re ener­gy should come from in the long term. The days of coal as an ener­gy source in Lon­gye­ar­by­en are over and the cur­rent die­sel power plant fails to ful­fil all requi­re­ments in terms of secu­ri­ty of sup­p­ly, eco­no­mic effi­ci­en­cy and cli­ma­te neu­tra­li­ty. Today’s rea­li­ty is a far cry from the ear­lier idea of being a role model on an inter­na­tio­nal level; at the moment, peo­p­le are hap­py if the hea­ting is on during the cold months and the elec­tri­ci­ty is at least half­way afforda­ble, even if the govern­ment has to help out with money (sub­si­di­sed elec­tri­ci­ty pri­ces) and the mili­ta­ry with addi­tio­nal mobi­le gene­ra­tors.

Wha­te­ver the ener­gy sup­p­ly of the future looks like in Lon­gye­ar­by­en: The sta­te, repre­sen­ted local­ly by the mining com­pa­ny Store Nor­ske Spits­ber­gen Kul­kom­pa­ni, will play an incre­asing­ly important role.

Visi­tor fee

The govern­ment wants tou­rists to con­tri­bu­te a hig­her pro­por­ti­on of public inco­me via a visi­tor con­tri­bu­ti­on. This con­tri­bu­ti­on would amount to up to 5%, which would be added to hotel stays, for exam­p­le; ship pas­sen­gers could be char­ged a flat rate of 150 kro­ner, for exam­p­le. Such a sys­tem alre­a­dy exists on the Nor­we­gi­an main­land, whe­re the reve­nue goes enti­re­ly to the respec­ti­ve muni­ci­pa­li­ties. In Sval­bard, the sta­te wants to reser­ve the right to a por­ti­on of the reve­nue.

Sin­ce 2007, Sval­bard has had an ‘envi­ron­men­tal fee’ (mil­jø­ge­byr) of 150 kro­ner, which is included in flight tickets and paid by ships brin­ging pas­sen­gers to Sval­bard. This envi­ron­men­tal fee is admi­nis­te­red by the Sval­bard Mil­jø­vern­fond, to which anyo­ne in Lon­gye­ar­by­en can app­ly for finan­cial sup­port for pro­jects with an envi­ron­men­tal aspect. The envi­ron­men­tal fee is not part of the cur­rent dis­cus­sion, the visi­tor con­tri­bu­ti­on will come on top of it.

Until this hap­pens, the­re is cer­tain­ly need for fur­ther dis­cus­sion, for exam­p­le with regard to who bene­fits from the inco­me and what it can be used for.

We went up to a view­point in Skjer­vøy in the late after­noon. Even the rain stop­ped and the view over Skjer­vøy town and har­bour was love­ly!

Next day we star­ted for a final round of wha­le­wat­ching in Kvæn­an­gen – not wit­hout some suc­cess 🙂 – and then set cour­se for Ham­nes, one of few places in the wide area that was not des­troy­ed by Ger­man tro­ops in 1944/45 and hence has some of its his­to­ri­cal charme pre­ser­ved.

We went for a litt­le walk in Ham­nes and then enjoy­ed Captain’s Din­ner on board. Piet and the ser­vice crew had real­ly gone “all in”, making a won­derful (and very tasty) evening pos­si­ble for ever­y­bo­dy!

And as Cap­tain Dou­we descri­bed the trip, sum­ma­ri­sed in my own short words: “the worst wea­ther, the best wha­les”. Yes, the­re is some truth in that …

Pho­to gal­lery Skjer­vøy, Kvæn­an­gen and Ham­nes – 17th Novem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Wai­ting the wea­ther out in Mann­da­len tur­ned out to be a good thing. Well, Mann­da­len was in its­elf more than just worth a visit any­way, but now we have Kvæn­an­gen in reason­ab­ly calm con­di­ti­ons. A bit of swell, but almost no wind.

What can I say? It didn’t take more than half an hour until we saw the first orcas. Not much later fol­lo­wed some Fin wha­les. And then hump­back wha­les. Many of them. Stun­ning. What a day! Just have a look at the pic­tures. It went on for hours, whe­re­ver we went.

In the evening we went along in Rein­fjord. „Evening“, howe­ver, is a rela­ti­ve term here now. Sun­set is at 13:08 hrs …

Pho­to gal­lery Kvæn­an­gen (1) – 15th Novem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

And we con­tin­ued with the wha­les on Satur­day. Wha­les are the focus of this voya­ge, and I would say we are doing well … the wea­ther is not of the grea­test sort and some more light would do, but wel­co­me to north Nor­way in mid Novem­ber 🐳 😀

Pho­to gal­lery Kvæn­an­gen (2) – 16th Novem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

And again the­re is a strong low pres­su­re on the way to nor­t­hern Nor­way. To avo­id strong winds and big waves, we retrea­ted deep into Lyn­gen­fjord, to Mann­da­len. An inte­res­t­ing place, mee­ting place of cul­tures and eth­nic groups: Kvens, Sami and eth­nic Nor­we­gi­ans have lived here tog­e­ther for cen­tu­ries, often as a fri­end­ly neigh­bour­hood, some­ti­mes less so. The­re is a very inte­res­t­ing cul­tu­ral centre/museum in Mann­da­len dedi­ca­ted to the Samí peo­p­le, “Sen­ter for nor­dis­ke folk”. Of cour­se we went the­re.

Later we fil­led the dark part of the day with lec­tures and some on board cine­ma.

Pho­to gal­lery Mann­da­len (1) – 13th Novem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

A strong low pres­su­re like the cur­rent one needs two days to move trough, so we spent yet ano­ther day in Mann­da­len with snow fal­ling the who­le day. We stret­ched our legs in the mor­ning with some day­light and con­tin­ued with our lec­tu­re series in the after­noon.

Pho­to gal­lery Mann­da­len (2) – 14th Novem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.