This voyage was something special: I am not aware of any previous cruise on a sailing ship (or any other type of vessel) in these waters in late October – the beginning of the polar night: since 25 October, the sun does not come above the horizon anymore in Isfjord. Additionally, we were very likely the very last visitors to the old trapper hut in Midterhukhamna and the remains of the whaling station at Lægerneset in Recherchefjord. These are amongst those historical sites that are supposed to be closed to the public from 2009 on.