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Monthly Archives: September 2024 − News & Stories


Hin­lo­pen Strait: Wahl­ber­gøya, Murch­ison­fjord

Again, it is fog­gy in Hin­lo­pen Strait. It was just enough to visit the wal­ru­ses on Wahl­ber­gøya. And they were in pret­ty good mood 🙂

Then – fog, fog. We didn’t see the sky again until we rea­ched Murch­ison­fjord in the evening. Full moon abo­ve the moun­ta­ins. The nights are get­ting dar­ker and dar­ker now.

A night at anchor in Wea­sel­buk­ta is some­thing quite spe­cial in its­elf. And so is a hike on Nord­aus­t­land, name­ly Roald­top­pen in this case.

Now we have set cour­se for mof­fen. In thick fog …

Gal­lery – Hin­lo­pen Strait: Wahl­ber­gøya, Murch­ison­fjord – 17th/18th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Wahl­enberg­fjord: Idun­nes­et & Pal­an­der­buk­ta

The won­derful, remo­te Nord­aus­t­land! „Remo­te“ is a rela­ti­ve term of cour­se. But in the eyes of someone who star­ted dis­co­ve­ring Spits­ber­gen by hiking from the sett­le­ments, it is kind of the dark side of the moon (and we did stretch the boun­da­ries pret­ty far back then).

So the­re we were. In Wahl­enberg­fjord. At Idun­nes­et, to be pre­cise. A love­ly hike with gre­at views of the inland ice.

Gyl­dé­nøya­ne did not turn out to be a polar bear para­di­se this time as on pre­vious occa­si­ons. Would have been too good, I guess. Curr­ent­ly the beasts just don’t want to show up. Well, we’ve still got time.

In Pal­an­der­buk­ta, we star­ted a hike in the polar desert, but retur­ned soon becau­se the wind was real­ly start­ing to blow quite hard.

Gal­lery – Wahl­enberg­fjord: Idun­nes­et & Pal­an­der­buk­ta – 16th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Wors­ley­ham­na

In Wors­ley­ham­na in Lief­defjord we had a look at Vil­la Oxford, a real Nøis hut from the 1920s. And we made a love­ly litt­le hike to the coast of Wood­fjord. On the way we found a memo­ri­al for Frank Wors­ley (Shackleton’s cap­tain on Endu­rance), which I had somehow never seen befo­re. Who may have put it the­re? Pro­ba­b­ly the expe­di­ti­on of Geor­ge Bin­ney from Oxford in 1924, I sup­po­se.

We made a loop into Mus­ham­na. Ever­y­thing fur­ther north – pos­si­bly polar bears, cer­tain­ly the Rit­ter hut at Gråhu­ken – remain­ed pret­ty much hid­den behind low clouds and rain.

Gal­lery – Wors­ley­ham­na, 15th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Lief­defjord: Mona­co­b­reen & Sørd­a­len

We star­ted the day near Ler­nerøya­ne in Lief­defjord. A beau­tiful mor­ning, the air crys­tal-clear, mir­ror images on the water. It con­tin­ued this way at Mona­co­b­reen. What a beau­tiful world! By the way, Mona­co­b­reen is curr­ent­ly advan­cing mark­ed­ly on its eas­tern side.

Later it was time to stretch legs a litt­le bit. So we did on Reins­dyr­flya, after a visit at the remains of the Kreuz­rit­ter wea­ther sta­ti­on from the dark years of the second world war.

Lief­defjord: Mona­co­b­reen & Sørd­a­len – 14th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

West coast: Fjer­de­breen & Kob­befjord

A gol­den day at the nor­t­hern west coast, the „Seven ice­bergs“, Dei Sju Isfjel­la. One of tho­se rare days when you can actual­ly do a bit more on the wild outer coast bet­ween Kongsfjord/Krossfjord and Mag­da­le­nefjord than just pas­sing by. We went by Zodiac into the lagoon of Fjer­de­breen and spent a sun­ny mor­ning on the morai­ne hills near this migh­ty and very impres­si­ve gla­cier. Stun­ning!

Later we went into Kob­befjord on the west side of Dan­s­køya. Exact­ly, that is the place whe­re the tra­ge­dy of Møkle­by and Simon­sen hap­pen­ed in 1922. But what main­ly caught our atten­ti­on were the seals that Kob­befjord owes its name to (Kob­befjord = Seal bay). Har­bour seals, to be pre­cise. And a litt­le evening walk with a faint hint of wha­ling histo­ry. And an arc­tic let­ter­box.

Gal­lery: West coast: Fjer­de­breen & Kob­befjord, 13th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Kongsfjord

Kongsfjord. We had rea­ched Ny-Åle­sund during the night and that’s whe­re we also spent the mor­ning. Cold, win­dy and inte­res­t­ing, as always. With some gre­at views of the Tre Kro­ner and all the other moun­ta­ins and gla­ciers in inner Kongsfjord.

In the after­noon, we got more views of this grand sce­n­ery from a clo­ser distance. Stun­ning. But so is also the gla­cier ice loss, which has even acce­le­ra­ted in recent years. The­re is no deny­ing of that.

On the other hand, the amount of ice in Kongsfjord was quite sur­pri­sing.

The day finis­hed with an ama­zing sun­set in Fjor­ten­de Juli­buk­ta.

Gal­lery – 12th Sep­tem­ber 2024 – Kongsfjord

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

For­lands­und: Eidem­buk­ta & Her­man­senøya

We spent the first full day in For­lands­und, with a won­derful mor­ning in Eidem­buk­ta, with the litt­le gor­ge, green tun­dra, wide views. It was pret­ty cold – that’s how it should be on 78 degrees north in mid Sep­tem­ber.

In the after­noon, we spent some gol­den hours on Her­man­senøya. From the distance, a small, not very exci­ting loo­king island. On a clo­ser view, full of inte­res­t­ing and beau­tiful details.

And the sun­set later that evening in nor­t­hern For­lands­und … stun­ning!

Pho­to gal­lery For­lands­und: Eidem­buk­ta & Her­man­senøya, 11th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Isfjord

Here we go again. The last time „Spits­ber­gen under sail“ for this year. The last time „Spits­ber­gen under sail“ with SV Anti­gua for me. The­re is inde­ed a bit of sad­ness.

But for now and here, we are loo­king for­ward to a gre­at trip and we enjoy a fan­ta­stic start, sai­ling with 10 knots into the sun­set. Just beau­tiful!

Gal­lery Isfjord, 10. Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

A pri­son for Barents­burg

The best poli­ti­cal ide­as come from Rus­sia the­se days (and just in case someone does not under­stand the sar­casm here: the com­ple­te oppo­si­te is obvious­ly the case). Mem­ber of par­lia­ment Ivan Suk­harev said accor­ding to Barents-Obser­ver that Rus­sia should build a pri­son for ter­ro­rists in Spits­ber­gen to iso­la­te them the­re. Alter­na­tively, he sug­gested Nova­ya Zem­lya, a Rus­si­an arc­tic island sou­the­ast of Sval­bard. It would be not­hing less than a revi­val of the ter­ri­ble Gulag sys­tem of Sov­jet times.

Barentsburg

Nor­we­gi­an law ful­ly appli­es in the Rus­si­an sett­le­ment Barents­burg in Spits­ber­gen.
The Rus­si­ans can run a coal mine and tou­rism, but no pri­son.

The Nor­we­gi­an Sys­sel­mes­ter (high govern­ment repre­sen­ta­ti­ve) Lars Fau­se quick­ly made clear that the who­le ter­ri­to­ry of Sval­bard inclu­ding the Rus­si­an sett­le­ments are under Nor­we­gi­an law and sove­reig­n­ty. No sta­te or other enti­ty other than the Nor­we­gi­an sta­te is entit­led to car­ry out duties of sove­reig­ny such as cri­mi­nal pro­se­cu­ti­on, inclu­ding run­ning a pri­son. Rus­si­an does not have any sove­reign rights in Sval­bard. Accor­ding to the Spits­ber­gen Trea­ty, a Rus­si­an com­pa­ny such as Trust Ark­ti­ku­gol may run a coal mine or tou­rism on their pro­per­ties in Barents­burg and Pyra­mi­den, but not­hing that invol­ves sove­reign rights.

Isfjord: Tun­draod­den & Bohe­man­nes­et. Lon­gye­ar­by­en.

And the sun went up ☀️😃 wun­derful! A blue sky, bright suns­hi­ne. We cer­tain­ly enjoy­ed that, we had not had so much of that the last cou­ple of days.

We enjoy­ed this final full day accor­din­gly, with a litt­le hike on Erd­mann­flya in Bore­buk­ta. And final­ly on beau­tiful Bohe­man­nes­et.

Pho­to gal­lery Isfjord: Tun­draod­den & Bohe­man­nes­et. 07th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

And not much later we were back in Lon­gye­ar­by­en. Back in civi­li­sa­ti­on. Pack­ing, say­ing good­bye and fare­well … but first, time to cele­bra­te!

Pho­to­gal­lery Lon­gye­ar­by­en, 07th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Trygg­ham­na, Alk­hor­net

Belie­ve it or not but the Arc­tic can actual­ly be pret­ty unp­lea­sant. Then it’s bet­ter to stay insi­de the cosy ship and talk about rocks. Mean­while out­side – let it rain, rain, rain.

But the sun does shi­ne after every rain­fall. The after­noon at Alk­hor­net tur­ned out to be won­derful. A tun­dra para­di­se with reinde­er and polar foxes. Stun­ning.

Pho­to gal­lery Trygg­ham­na, Alk­hor­net. 06th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Bell­sund

Bell­sund was today a bit grey, but we could spend a dry and beau­tiful mor­ning in Recher­chefjord, from the green tun­dra at Asbes­tod­den (the mine­ral asbes­tos occurs the­re natu­ral­ly and an attempt was even made to mine it the­re a cen­tu­ry ago, hence the name) to Recher­che­breen.

The after­noon was real­ly wet and our visit at Kapp Tos­ca­na thus tur­ned out to be a short one. Later it cle­ared up again at Fri­dt­jov­breen.

Pho­to gal­lery Bell­sund: Recher­chefjord, Kapp Tos­ca­na, Fri­dt­jov­breen. 05th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Sør­kapp, Horn­sund

The drea­ded south cape: plea­sant­ly uneventful. Fog­gy and calm.

Horn­sund: also fog­gy. But once again we mana­ged to be at the right place in the right time, at Gnå­lod­den in the evening.

Pho­to gal­lery: Sør­kapp – Horn­sund. 04th Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Rain war­ning issued for Lon­gye­ar­by­en

Rain? We have had our share of rain in Spits­ber­gen this sum­mer, that’s for sure. And that is exact­ly the pro­blem with tho­se 25 mm of rain that the Nor­we­gi­an meteo­ro­lo­gi­cal ser­vice pre­dicts for Fri­day (06 Sep­tem­ber): the soil is alre­a­dy pret­ty much water satu­ra­ted and any addi­tio­nal rain will this run off quick­ly at the sur­face, which may lead to floo­ding and thus to dama­ge. Ear­lier this year the pede­stri­an bridge Per­le­por­ten was dama­ged by floo­ding in Lon­gye­ar­by­en.

Addi­tio­nal­ly, rain pene­t­ra­ting into the ground may cau­se soil lay­ers to thaw that have been fro­zen for hundreds or even thou­sands of years. This may affect slo­pe sta­bi­li­ty around Lon­gye­ar­by­en and other are­as.

landslide Longyearbyen

Older lands­li­de in Lon­gye­ar­by­en, near the ceme­ta­ry (left side in the pic­tu­re): simi­lar events may hap­pen after the strong rain­fall expec­ted on Fri­day.

Edgeøya: Ston­ebreen, Halv­må­neøya

It was a bit of a bum­py start into the day, with a pret­ty strong bree­ze blo­wing through Free­man­sund. We deci­ded to stay on the east side of Edgeøya today. Good thing.

The­re, we had the migh­ty Ston­ebreen – a uni­que spe­ci­men of a gla­cier! Edgeøy­jø­ku­len is an ice cap of a good 1300 squa­re kilo­me­t­res, and on its eas­tern side it just flows out into the sea, on a coas­tal stretch as long as 25 kilo­me­t­res. The actu­al gla­cier front is much lon­ger. We were lucky enough to get clo­se to that impres­si­ve bit of land­scape in suns­hi­ne ❄️☀️😎

This was fol­lo­wed by a scenic pas­sa­ge of the east coast of Edgeøya and final­ly a litt­le evening landing on Halv­må­neøya, at the famous trap­per hut of Bjør­ne­borg – very atmo­sphe­ric, not the least due to some fog banks and the sad call of seve­ral red throa­ted divers on some ponds in the vici­ni­ty.

Pho­to gal­lery – Edgeøya: Ston­ebreen, Halv­må­neøya. 03rd Sep­tem­ber 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

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