Arctic nature, landscape and history on the north side of Isfjord
The bay of Trygghamna is located on the north side of Isfjord.
General
Trygghamna is located on the north side of the Isfjord, opposite Barentsburg. Trygghamna is the westernmost of a whole series of bays on the north side of the Isfjord. The area is a national park, but tourists are allowed to go ashore and hike everywhere.
View over Trygghamna from the scheduled plane on the approach to Longyearbyen.
Alkhornet on the left side of the entrance to the bay.
Trygghamna is surrounded by mountains, the bay is only open to the south, towards Isfjord. In easterly or westerly winds, the bay usually offers good shelter, hence the name: Trygghamna is the translation of the original English name ‘Safe Harbour’. Trygghamna is the first bay on the north side that a ship entering Isfjord reaches and is therefore a frequently used anchorage, both in the past and today. However, when the wind blows in a north-south direction, it can be stormy in the small, straight bay surrounded by mountains. And I’m not quite sure how the whalers anchored here in their day, as most of the bay is far too deep for anchoring, with depths of more than 100 metres. The innermost part of Trygghamna offers good anchorage depths for small ships, but this area did not exist in whaling times in the 17th and 18th centuries, as the glaciers still extended there at that time, which have since retreated.
View from Knuvlen to the south-east over Trygghamna.
There is a fairly shallow area on the east side of Trygghamna, but at one point it is 4.4 metres shallow: enough to be dangerous for ships. There is also a historic shipwreck close to this shoal. It is marked on the nautical chart, anchoring and diving are prohibited there.
Trygghamna is an impressively scenic bay with rugged mountains and several glaciers. A wide, lush green tundra plain stretches around the Alkhornet, a striking mountain in the entrance area on the west side. All in all, there is a lot to discover!
Alkhornet is a popular tourist landing site and is frequently visited during the summer season.
Trygghamna panorama
The following pages are dedicated to individual places in the bay, each with more pictures, including 360-degree panoramic images, and information.
The little mountain Knuvlen in the northern part of Trygghamna, partly surrounded by glaciers.
Geology
On the western side, around the Alkhornet and a little further into the bay, you will find the old geological basement of Svalbard, which outcrops along the entire west coast. On the western shore of Trygghamna, it is composed of slate and quartzite, similar to large areas elsewhere on the west coast.
Folded slate on the shore at Alkhornet.
The striking mountain ridge Värmlandryggen on the eastern side of the bay shows that it is geologically carved from a completely different rock. The bedrock here is much younger, consisting of deposits from the upper Palaeozoic periods of Carboniferous and Permian. The Carboniferous in particular consists in part of quartzitic sandstone, which is weathered into such coarse blocks on mountain slopes by frost shatter that it can be quite strenuous to move around. This is the case in some places in the inner part of Trygghamna, for example around Knuvlen.
Weathered sandstone on Knuvlen.
Elsewhere, the ‘Permo-Carboniferous’ (collective term for Permian and Carboniferous) consists of hard limestone layers in which you can find beautiful fossils in places.
Fossilised coral stems from the upper Carboniferous/lower Permian (approx. 300 million years old) on the east side of Trygghamna.
At Värmlandryggen, tectonic movements have tilted these layers into a vertical position, giving this ridge its distinctive appearance. This is particularly striking on the shore on the east side of the entrance to Trygghamna, at Selmaneset.
Steep layers at Selmaneset and Värmlandryggen.
Landscape
Spitsbergen in a nutshell! From Alkornet westwards, the coastal plain becomes wider and wider, as is typical for large parts of the west coast of Spitsbergen. The tundra at Alkhornet with its ice wedges is an experience in itself.
Tundra with ice wedges at Alkhornet.
In Trygghamna itself, flat land on the shore is rather limited (west side) to non-existent (mainly on the east side). Here the debris-covered slopes rise more or less from the shore up to 500-700 metres.
On the west and north-west side of the bay there are several smaller glaciers, Protektorbreen, Harrietbreen and Kjerulfbreen, but none of them reach the shore of the fjord. To the north, the small fjord Trygghamna continues into a small valley with several lakes.
Glacier tour on Harrietbreen.
In the geologically recent past, up until the 19th and possibly the early 20th century, the Harrietbreen and Kjerulfbreen glaciers reached the shore of the fjord and formed calving cliffs there. Here, as elsewhere, glacier retreat is pronounced, formerly as a result of the end of the Little Ice Age in the 19th century and today due to the ongoing man-made climate change.
Moraine landscape on the shore in front of Harrietbreen and Kjerulfbreen.
Flora and fauna
Large parts of Trygghamna are rather inconspicuous in terms of flora and fauna: the terrain is too steep and characterised by debris-covered slopes or glaciers and moraines.
Alkhornet offers a stark contrast to this: as the name ‘Alken Horn’ suggests, numerous seabirds breed on the cliffs, even if they are mainly kittiwakes rather than guillemots (“alk”).
Alkhornet and surrounding tundra.
Fertilisation by the bird cliffs has created a tundra on the coastal plain around Alkhornet that is as green and lush as you can imagine. A paradise for reindeer and arctic foxes, and during the breeding season in early summer, the tundra is home to numerous geese.
Reindeer family at Alkhornet.
History
Everyone who came to Spitsbergen needed a safe (natural) harbour, and this was and still is found in Trygghamna. Accordingly, they were all here: Whalers, Pomors and later trappers, and they all left their mark.
Graves from the whaling era (17th/18th century).
The most prominent site is probably the Pomor station on the west side of Trygghamna.
Remains of the Pomor settlement in Trygghamna.
Completely ruined, but still clearly visible, is the trapper’s hut built by Hilmar Nøis on the shore near Alkhornet in 1920. It was not the first hut on the site, and if you look closely, you can see where a hut once stood before it.
Remains of the trapper’s hut from 1920 at Alkhornet.
The photo is from 2014, since then the hut has deteriorated even further.
Just north of this trapper’s hut is a fairly modern hut from the 1970s above the shore. It is owned by the Sysselmester (governor) and there is usually field police stationed there during the summer season.
Photo gallery Trygghamna
Some impressions of Trygghamna, illustrating the variety of the landscsape from Selmaneset in the southeast to the glaciers in the northwest.
This and other publishing products of the Spitsbergen publishing house in the Spitsbergen-Shop.
Norwegens arktischer Norden (1): Spitzbergen
Photobook: Norway's arctic islands. The text in this book is German. [shop url="https://shop.spitzbergen.de/en/polar-books/70-norwegens-arktischer-norden-1-aerial-arctic-9783937903262.html"] ← Back
Lofoten, Jan Mayen and Spitsbergen from the air - Photobook: Norway's arctic islands. The text in this book is German, but there is very little text, so I am sure that you will enjoy it regardless which languages you read (or not).
The companion book for the Svalbardhytter poster. The poster visualises the diversity of Spitsbergen‘s huts and their stories in a range of Arctic landscapes. The book tells the stories of the huts in three languages.
Comprehensive guidebook about Spitsbergen. Background (wildlife, plants, geology, history etc.), practical information including travelling seasons, how to travel, description of settlements, routes and regions.
Join an exciting journey with dog, skis and tent through the wintery wastes of East Greenland! We were five guys and a dog when we started in Ittoqqortoormiit, the northernmost one of two settlements on Greenland’s east coast.
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