Escaping the fog was the one and only thing to so, something that turned out to be not easy at all. We got rid of it, for a while at least, in Freemansund on Barentsøya, where we wanted to land at Büdelfjellet (near Kapp Waldburg), a classic site well known for its kittiwake colony and often friendly arctic foxes. But before we got that far, our attention was caught by a slightly larger mammal. We were blessed with an amazing wildlife encounter – have a look at my travel blog from that day for a bunch of photos. Later, we still got to the kittiwakes and the foxes. Well, one fox. Anyway.
We passed the remote, rarely visited Ryke Yseøyane before reaching Halvmåneøya, where the fog covered everything again, but the early morning visit (see photo on top of this page) more than made up for it. Stunning!
The next very rare experience was entering Tjuvfjordlagune, a large lagoon in inner Tjuvfjord on the south side of Edgeøya created by the retreat of the large Deltabreen glacier. I wonder if any ship had ever anchored there before we did. It is at least possible that we were the first ones. One should always be carefuly with any claim for being the first one to have done something in Svalbard, but in this case it is at least a plausible thought. The entrance is not straightforward, certainly not an option for bigger ships anyway and only in good conditions. If you know of any earlier visits there, please let me know.
Deltabreen in Tjuvfjordlagune.
Tusenøyane remained hidden in dense fog. We could well have done with a bit less fog on this trip, but anyway, we needed some rest, so maybe it wasn’t a bad thing after all. We set course for the south cape – a delightfully uneventful passage – and went as far north as Bellsund on the west coast, into Recherchefjord, where we stretched our legs at various places including Chamberlindalen and Observatoriefjellet.
Autum in Recherchefjord.
Van Mijenfjord had a couple of really interesting places for us, starting with the strongly advancing glacier Scheelebreen and then on to the abandoned mining settlement Sveagruva which has undergone a major clean-up. Have a look at this page (with sub pages) to see what it used to be during its more recent active years and at the blog for what it looks like now. A strong contrast.
Then we still had some miles ahead of us back to Longyearbyen, a passage broken up by yet another polar bear sighting, our efforts to secure some fresh fish for our final dinner which took place while we passed Grumantbyen on the very last miles of the voyage.
This and other publishing products of the Spitsbergen publishing house in the Spitsbergen-Shop.
Norwegens arktischer Norden (1): Spitzbergen
Photobook: Norway's arctic islands. The text in this book is German. [shop url="https://shop.spitzbergen.de/en/polar-books/70-norwegens-arktischer-norden-1-aerial-arctic-9783937903262.html"] ← Back
Lofoten, Jan Mayen and Spitsbergen from the air - Photobook: Norway's arctic islands. The text in this book is German, but there is very little text, so I am sure that you will enjoy it regardless which languages you read (or not).
The companion book for the Svalbardhytter poster. The poster visualises the diversity of Spitsbergen‘s huts and their stories in a range of Arctic landscapes. The book tells the stories of the huts in three languages.
Comprehensive guidebook about Spitsbergen. Background (wildlife, plants, geology, history etc.), practical information including travelling seasons, how to travel, description of settlements, routes and regions.
Join an exciting journey with dog, skis and tent through the wintery wastes of East Greenland! We were five guys and a dog when we started in Ittoqqortoormiit, the northernmost one of two settlements on Greenland’s east coast.
12 postcards which come in a beautifully designed tray. Beautiful images from South Georgia across Antarctica from the Antarctic Peninsula to the Ross Sea and up to Macquarie Island and Campbell Island.