If you have visited Ny-Ålesund in recent years, then you have experienced something of a technical-cultural paradox: a settlement that, in many ways, is very modern and technically advanced, but you couldn’t use your mobile phone because there was no mobile network.
Was. That is a matter of the past now.
Ny-Ålesund: a mast, but no antenna.
Things have changed. Now you can use your mobile phone there as elsewhere.
It has always been said that the electromagnetic field that comes with mobile network disturbs certain highly sensitive scientific technology. But that does actually not apply for the frequencies of mobile network. It is indeed the case, however, for other frequencies, including those in the range of wifi/WLAN and Bluetooth. These remain forbidden in Ny-Ålesund.
Culturally, this is a major step for the small settlement which has been mobile-phone-free until the early winter of 2023. It is considered to keep social places such as the messroom mobile phone free.
But for everyday life, it is safe to assume that most people will welcome it, both those who live and work there as well as tourists. Also scientific work will benefit from easier communications, for example as some measuring devices can now send their data rather than checking them regularly in the field. Field safety will obviously also benefit.
And as mentioned above: Wifi/WLAN and bluetoth will remain forbidden.
This is about an issue which is about life and limb potentially of polar bears and humans, so let’s make a few things clear before we get into it: pepperspray (or bear spray) is currently not recommended by Norwegian authorities as a tool of deterrence or defence against polar bears and it is currently not legally available in Norway including Svalbard for private persons.
And: this is not a discussion about using pepperspray against aggressive polar bears in open terrain. Attempting this would literally be suicidal.
Having said that: there is an ongoing discussion about the use of pepperspray in Spitsbergen, even though it is, so far, an entirely theoretical one and authorities do not appear to be very enthusiastic about it. But cases like the one in August where a polar bear was shot in Krossfjord as he attempted to break into a hut with people inside certainly contribute to the discussion.
“Hello, anyone at home?” Pepperspray may well save the life of a polar bear in a situation like this. Here, everything went well in the end.
And it is actually exclusively about cases where people can act from the relative safety of a hut (or a closed vehicle etc.). The polar bear in August was not the first one that was shot while breaking into a hut by people inside.
So what it is about now? Fred Skancke Hansen is safety officer at UNIS and responsible for field safety courses and safety during field work of students and scientists. As such, he has gathered relevant experience and knowledge over years. Hansen told Svalbardposten that he is open for the discussion about pepperspray and positive about its use in certain situations. It talks about an “additional tool” in the toolbox that may prevent lethal shooting in situations where people would have the opportunity to use pepperspray out of a situation of relative safety. Also Hansen points out that the idea is not to be in the field with pepperspray as the only tool of self defence against polar bears.
The point of pepperspray is that it may safe a polar bear from being shot and at the same time the bear would most likely take with him that the vicinity of huts and people is something to avoid in the future. And this would be the best possible outcome of such a situation.
A speaksperson of the Sysselmester said that pepperspray is not legally available in Spitsbergen. It would require a change on a legal (government & parliament) level to change this. Until this possibly happens, the discussion will remain a purely theoretical one, at least for Svalbard.
The magic of the early polar night in Spitsbergen. A day in Adventdalen, not far from Longyearbyen. Some impressions of a day on 78 degrees north in mid November from noon with some twilight to real darkness which comes in the early afternoon.
The last two days of this trip. A morning in Sørkjosen, a scenic (if whale-free) afternoon in Reisafjord en route to the lovely little place Hamnes on Uløya. There we could enjoy a morning with some walks in brilliant weather: light frost, clear sky and the beautiful light of the low winter sun.
Then we finished a very successful trip in the far north of Norway with the last miles to Tromsø.
And this is the end of my season 2023 on sailing ships in the north. Antigua and Meander, I will see you next year in Spitsbergen! I am looking forward to you!
As mentioned above, we had saved the orcas for today 🙂 seriously – obviously you can’t plan it like that, but sometimes reality is even better than you could dream it.
The weather: pretty wild. Showers of snow and hail, dramatic light, strong and gusty wind. The whole package and back again. And in the middle of all that, orcas everywhere around us. Wild stuff.
It was good later to walk a bit in the silence of Sørkjosen.
Today the sun was smiling – at least for those almost 5 hours that it bothers to come up above the horizon. And it is getting less and less every day. But the twilight hours are long and beautiful both in the morning and in the afternoon.
Our quest for whales in Kvænangen was successful also today, except that we still leave the orcas for tomorrow. But the whole rest of it … humpback whales, finn whales, they were all there!
And so was the northern light in the evening. A Zodiac tour to the little harbour and pub on Spildra rounded the day off.
Kvænangen – that’s the place now for those who dream about northern lights and whales.
The best days are often those that begin with low expectations. Clouds and wind. Little chances for a good whalewatching experience and no chance for northern lights, one would think.
See what we then got … the pictures below will tell the story 🙂
Here we go again – the last trip up north under sail this year for me. Leaving Tromsø today with good old SV Antigua, sailing to the north, hoping for northern lights and whales.
The first step takes us to the island of Reinøya with the little lovely place Finnkroken, where we spend the first evening, night and morning. And now we are heading northeast, to the Kvænangen area, very curious what the next days will bring!
The Russian presence in Svalbard was already subject of the last article on this page, but there is more to it.
According to Svalbardposten there are Russian plans to refurbish and use several old buildings in Grumant and Colesbukta. In contrast to other construction projects, the Sysselmester received an application for the project before work started on site. Before approval might be given, authorities need, however, more information – a usual procedure in such cases.
The idea seems to be that the Russian want to be able to offer proper accommodation to their people when they stay in Colesbukta and Grumant for work.
Grumant (often called Grumantbyen) and Colesbukta together used to be a Russian coal mining settlement which was, however, abandoned in 1961. All buildings are accordingly in an advanced state of decay. Putting any buildings there back into use without completely removing them and building new ones seems to be quite ambitious.
Building in Grumantbyen. It may need more than a bucket of paint.
It has been known for a while that the Russians have plans to increase their scientific activities. So far, they have been running a science centre in Barentsburg (south of the hotel). Now the Barentsobserver wrote that the Russians plan a major science centre in Pyramiden, which is to involve partners from „friendly countries“ such as China, Brazil, India, Turkey and Thailand.
Both China and India already run a presence each in Ny-Ålesund. According to Norwegian experts, it is not certain that these countries are really interested in even further costly scientific presence at another place in Spitsbergen. It also remains to be seen of Brazil, Turkey, Thailand or other countries are interested in such a presence on a long-term basis at all. But it is interesting to notice that Pyramiden is back in the focus for such plans. Also the Russians are considering new activities beyond coal which is obviously not a future-orientated project and tourism which for obvious reasons is not doing well in the Russian settlements.
Pyramiden: may become an international science centre, according to Russian plans.
Relationships between Russia and many other countries are obviously difficult, to put it mildly. It is true to say that this includes Norway on various levels from Oslo to Longyearbyen.
But there is still contact and at least some cooperation. Recently in October, the Joint Norwegian-Russian fisheries commission has agreed to lower most important fishing quotas in the Barents Sea, where both countries share large areas. The commission exists since 1975. The agreement is not only remarkable in itself seen from the perspective of current global politics, but also the results are worthwhile having a look at: the voice of the scientists was largely heard. Cod quotas were lowered by 20 % for the third time in a row. In 2024, the total cod quota will be 453,427 tons (Norwegian share: 212,124 tons). The halibut quote was also lowered, while the capelin quote was strongly increased.
As could be expected, Russia was quick to threaten with a unilateral cancellation of the agreement if Norway took any steps considered undesirable from a Russian perspective. Since the large Russian invasion in the Ukraine started in February 2022, Russian ships are only allowed into three Norwegian ports (Tromsø, Båtsfjord and Kirkenes). But experts consider the risk that Russia will actually retreat from the agreement and even the commission as such rather low. Most of the better fishing grounds are within Norwegian waters and access of Russian fishing vessels to these waters is based on the agreement.
Russian fishing ship in Bellsund.
But elsewhere, things are more difficult. In Barentsburg and Pyramiden, Russian propaganda has become much more visible in 2023 than it used to be in the post, for example during the celebrations for victory day and the day of the navy.
Currently, Norwegian-Russian local relationships have to deal with Russian construction projects that are subject to Norwegian approval. But rather than playing according to the rules, the Russian have obviously chosen to make a statement. Superficially, it is at least in part about trivia, such as illuminated advertising on the „Russkiy dom“, the house of the Russian tourism department in Longyearbyen. It is also about the huge wooden Russian-orthodox cross that was put up last summer in the vicinity of the harbour in Pyramiden. Norwegian experts warned that here Russia wanted to make a symbolically charged statement that includes the demonstration of a historically long connection to the fatherland, with important cultural and religious aspects – a practice that is a painful reminder of preparations for Russian aggression elsewhere in rather recent times. And in any case, erecting a cross outside is not legal without permission by relevant authorities.
Symbolically not as highly charged, but nevertheless an issue for the authorities, is the case of mobile homes in shape of a pile of containers that were set up recently in Pyramiden to house workers. Clearly a project that requires authorisation given in advance by the Sysselmester (highest local representative of the Norwegian government). Norwegian law is valid everywhere in Svalbard, including the Russian settlements. But in all these cases, the Russians have obviously decided to make facts and talk later. Norwegian authorities seem to try to keep these issues on a factual level, not showing any desire to move them up to a political level.
Barentsburg: currently a bit of a dark affair, seen from a Norwegian perspective.
Meanwhile, tourism largely keeps a distance from the Russian settlements: the local inter-trade organisation Svalbard Reiselivsråd said in October that they recommend their members not to visit Barentsburg or Pyramiden. This is, however, not binding for the individual companies. Reiselivsråd-chairman Ronny Brunvoll also advised individuals with connection to the tourist industry not to visit the Russians privately. Brunvoll says that there is a risk of data theft when using Russian wifi or mobile phone network, and photos might be used for propaganda.
It seems that the situation is quite bogged down and it is hard to imagine how relationships might become better again before the war – here, obviously especially the Russian war against the Ukraine – has come to an end.