Farmhamna is a little hunting station on the west coast of Spitsbergen in Forlandsund, north of Isfjord. A wide-open, weather-beaten lowland; often, it is windy on this rather exposed coastline.
You can find a lot of small bay and beaches, some well known and others well hidden, behind small islets, rocks and peninsulas. We have explored and enjoyed many of them during our summer sailing ship trips. Also now, in the polar night, they can be useful; getting here and away is anything but straightforward, and the little bit of traffic there is is usually by boat. Over land, the area is pretty inaccessible.
Farmhamna.
This photo gives an impression of Farmhamna at this time, end of January/early February. Around noon, the brightest time of the day.
The light of the north!
Farmhamna: mid-day twilight.
And here an impression of the outer coast of Farmhamna, looking to the south, around mid-day. There is currently no more than twilight, we won’t see the sun before 16 February at the earliest. Depending on the weather, it may well be later. Or, actually, even a little bit earlier … we’ll see.
In any case, it is still two weeks away. But we have already got several hours of twilight, when the sun travels between 5 and 7 degrees below the horizon, producing the most beautiful shades of yellow, orange and red on the southern sky and all sorts of blue elsewhere.
And there is, as you may expect, sometimes a totally different kind of light shining in the evening. Much weaker than the sun, but infinitely beautiful.
The light of the north!
Northern light above Farmhamna.
A bit weak, but a beautiful start on my very first evening here!
Yes, there may be the odd northern light photo coming up here the next weeks … 🙂
The light is about to return to high latitudes in the north, and I have the opportunity to follow. Or, actually, to be a bit ahead of it.
Just in case anyone wants to know: travelling from Germany to Norway and further to Longyearbyen was remarkably easy. Somehow I expected some kind of trouble, I was certainly mentally prepared for it. As long as you have registered your planned entry to Norway before you actually come and you are tested negative directly after arrival and again within 24 hours before departure to Longyearbyen, nothing should keep things from going smoothly (it may depend a bit on where you come from – this is by no means legal advice, it is just recent experience). If the time between arrival in Oslo and departure to Longyearbyen is shorter than 24 hours, then one test will do. A lot depends obviously on the amount of traffic in the airport.
Don’t ask me how this may change in the future. Things are likely to change also in Norway sooner rather than later. Generally speaking, there is talk about making things easier. What and for whom, I don’t know.
Ice in the harbour of Longsyearbyen (småbåthavna, “small boat harbour”)
My stay in Longyearbyen was short and hectic this time. Shorter and more hectic than planned. Originally, the idea was to have a couple of days here before I would carry on, but this didn’t happen. The boat trip to the place that I was going to was moved to the next rather early morning after my arrival. There wasn’t much time to put the feet on the table, as you may well guess.
The little but sturdy MS Farm of Hennigsen, the only boat on the water here at this – from a sailor’s point of view – ungodly time of year. It was a trip of 6-7 hours, and the challenge started already in the harbour, which was kinf of half frozen. Ice on the water, a fine northern light on the sky. A good way to start a new adventure.
With MS Farm across Isfjord during the polar night.
There are already several hours of daylight around noon, and we managed to arrive at our destination still with some light. Farmhamna on the west coast. Here, I will help Rico for a couple of weeks. He and his partner Karoline own this beautiful trapper station, and here they do theirs to keep the tradition of overwintering hunting alive, which has a history spanning centuries here in Spitsbergen.
Farmhamna: arrived happily – arrived and happy.