Towards Beerenberg

Posted on 6. July 2014 by Rolf Stange

Sun
6 Jul
2014

Beerenberg is certainly more difficult than the altitude of a mere 2277 m suggests. Only on a handful of days in a year the weather is good enough to allow an ascent. And the logistics, difficult anyway, are a nightmare since the new regulations were introduced in 2010: no tents anywhere but Kvalrossbukta. If this benefits the environment (or science, for that sake), is another question, I guess I’ll return to that later.

This means that any attempt to climb Beerenberg will start for normal people (that is everybody unless you work at the station or you are officially supported by Norwegian authorities) with a hike of almost 20 km. And then you start the long ascent over rocky slopes and crevassed glaciers. Surely not everybodies cup of tea.

We have had our share of weather of all kinds both during the crossing and the first 24 hours on Jan Mayen, which was not too encouraging. Actually quite demanding. So for today, we had agreed with the station to pay them a visit to get a nice, not too long hike for the first real day here.

But Siggi (Sigurdur, the skipper) had got new weather information, which spoke a clear language. If an attempt on Beerenberg was to be made, it had to be tomorrow. If it was possible at all.

But there was only one way to find out. So we could not afford a rather relaxed day to get acclimatized, which would have been good. Instead, packing again. Equipment and food for bivac and glacier.

Gusty winds and rain showers were still hitting the tents, so we took it with time. We clearly did not have any desire to start wet into such an undertaking. We decided to make good use of the advantages of the midnight sun.

Finally it was time to start. Following the road for the first bit, we then went northwards over Pukkelryggen, a chain of mossy hills, old volcanic craters, one after another. Landscape in dark black, rusty read and strong mossy green, all threatened to be drowned in the heavy grey of today’s low clouds. We took a breath at a little stream, Purple saxifrage and Alpine mountain sorrel everywhere, flowers well-known from Spitsbergen, which appears as such a friendly place from the Jan Mayen perspective. Passing an old fighter airplane wreck from the mad days of WWII, behind it a foggy view to the northern lagoon. A shame just to walk past it today, but we still have many kilometres to go, the long way makes itself already felt, and so does the weight of the rucksacks.

Some of us turn back at Jøssingdalen. Those who hope to climb Beerenberg continue into the fog northwards. The remaining four follow the road south. A last, easy chance to make a decision and turn one’s back to the volcanoe. Some of us are certainly considering, then a quick goodbye and on we go, disappearing into a moon-like landscape of black volcanic sand desert and lava fields, following the road which is winding its way between rocky outcrops. They have even set up a few road signs of driftwood.

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After a long 18 kilometres, we have reached Ekerolddalen. Quot licet iovi, non licet bovi – for some privileged individuals, this is the parking place, other may not even set up a camp. So we roll our sleeping bags out on volcanic sand. A snow patch delivers some water, so we can turn dried food into something like a hot meal and tea. I hope, the next couple of foggy hours here in Ekerolddalen bring some rest. We’ll need it tomorrow.

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