Kvalrossløpet & Olonkinbyen

Posted on 9. July 2014 by Rolf Stange

Wed
9 Jul
2014

Admittedly, I started the day a bit later than usual. The programme for today seemed set and relaxed, with a visit to the station finally set for the afternoon. That’s what I thought, at least.

Then, things happened far too quickly for a slow morning like this. As it turned out, we had been offered the opportunity to do the „Kvalrossløpet“, the traditional run from Kvalrossbukta to the station. Nine kilometres, to be completed in 60-80 minutes, depending on sex and age, to become a diplomized walrus-runner. Piece of cake! Who would care about the 70 kilometres finally completed a mere 12 hours ago ..?

Admittedly, the last days were not making the feet lighter as the run was started at 1200 hours. Exactly 50 % of us had signed up. As expected, Harold quickly took the lead and did hardly touch the ground before he reached the goal at an impressive just under 45 minutes. Everybody else followed in due time, well within the framework according to regulations, so we could all later receive our diploma from the hands of the „høvdingen“ (chief), as the station commander is informally called. Not too bad, considering the many kilometres of the previous days as well as today’s gentle wind, the slopes and the fog. And best of it, we were officially invited to take a shower afterwards!

There was still some time left until the official station visit at 4 p.m., so we made a little walk to Kapp Traill south of the station. Little tracks led between lava sculptured overgrown with lichens and mosses, a truly haunted landscape. Rocky peninsula were sticking out into the sea, and countless Little auks were laughing in the slopes high up in the fog. Quite some of the essence of Jan Mayen was concentrated in this place.

At 1600 hours, we were welcomed by Roy, the friendly station commander. A little speech was followed by the usual procedure of a station visit. We made happily use of the chance to spend some money on souvenirs and enjoyed the large and cosy salon, very Norwegian, on this island which was so uncosy otherwise. Another highlight was the very kind offer by Roy to personally give us a ride back to Kvalrossbukta – takk skal du ha!

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The rest of the day? Just had to be done. Squeeze stuff into bags. Preferably watertight, the rest didn’t matter. Spend some time with hip waders in the surf to get everything on board. Try to give all the wet stuff some air, or even let it dry during the days to come. Some good food. And then, Jan Mayen slid past us. Some last warm evening light on red ash cliffs and bizarre lava flowers, covered with green mosses, and then the last craters disappeard so quickly in the fog behind us that nobody could be sure the island really exists.

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