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Home → September, 2019

Monthly Archives: September 2019 − Travelblog


Rødefjord – 2nd Sep­tem­ber 2019

Well, last night’s ancho­ra­ge in inner­most Fønfjord was not exact­ly gre­at. The sea bot­tom was slo­ping stee­p­ly to gre­at depth near the shore. No sur­pri­se the anchor was sli­ding down after a few hours. A typi­cal Green­land phe­no­me­non that finis­hed this night’s sleep for us.

Which tur­ned out to be a good thing. The day star­ted with a beau­tiful sun­ri­se, which most would have missed other­wi­se. A stun­ning start into a gol­den Green­land late sum­mer day! And we got seve­ral hours extra. We had made our first walk on the bright yel­low and red tun­dra in Rødefjord alre­a­dy befo­re break­fast.

The ice­bergs that are groun­ded near Røde Ø are world class. Sce­n­ery-wise, Green­land is second to not­hing.

Gal­lery – Rødefjord – 2nd Sep­tem­ber 2019

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

We con­tin­ued nor­thwards in the ama­zin­gly scenic Rødefjord with its inten­se red­dish colours on the west side and steep islands like Sor­te Ø and Store Ø on the east side. Lar­ge ice­bergs are drif­ting ever­y­whe­re in the mir­ror-calm water, occa­sio­nal­ly one rolls over or falls apart. A stun­ning pan­ora­ma. We spend hours sit­ting sil­ent­ly on deck, just enjoy­ing. Speechl­ess­ly.

Final­ly we reach one of few good ancho­ra­ges in this area in Harefjord. Soon two shore­li­nes are out, so it should be a calm night – unless nor­t­hern lights would inter­rupt our sleep, which would be quite ok we enjoy the beau­tiful evening light on a litt­le hill just abo­ve the anchor bay and call it a day.

Dan­mark Ø – 01st Sep­tem­ber 2019

We rea­ched Hek­la Havn last night, a beau­tiful natu­ral har­bour on Dan­mark Ø, whe­re we secu­red Anne-Mar­ga­re­tha with a sophisti­ca­ted arran­ge­ment of shore­li­nes per­fect­ly well so we did not even need to keep anchor watch. Not a bad thing, a full night of sleep, just for a chan­ge, as we could all easi­ly agree on.

Next mor­ning, we went out by Zodiac. On an incon­spi­cuous ter­race abo­ve the shore, we found remains of an inu­it sett­le­ment. A who­le row of win­ter hou­ses indi­ca­ting a lar­ge sett­le­ment for pre-Danish Green­lan­dic stan­dards. Almost a big city. With excel­lent views over the fjord.

You can find some of Scoresbysund’s most beau­tiful gneis­ses around Hek­la Havn. Stun­ning colours and struc­tures that nobo­dy could think of, this is some­thing just natu­re can crea­te.

Gal­lery – Dan­mark Ø – 01st Sep­tem­ber 2019

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

If you look clo­se­ly, you can still see whe­re Ryder’s expe­di­ti­on had their win­tering base in 1891-92. They were the first Euro­peans who dis­co­ver­ed and map­ped Scoresbysund’s inner rea­ches. Wit­hout Ryder, may­be we wouldn’t know today that all the­se beau­tiful places exist, Fønfjord, Rødefjord, Øfjord and so on …

So we enjoy­ed a per­fect­ly good Green­lan­dic mor­ning on Dan­mark Ø and then we con­tin­ued our voya­ge into Fønfjord, aiming for the inner­most bran­ches of the huge Score­s­by­sund.

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