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Home → September, 2019
Monthly Archives: September 2019 − Travelblog
Rødefjord – 2nd September 2019
Mon
2 Sep
2019
Well, last night’s anchorage in innermost Fønfjord was not exactly great. The sea bottom was sloping steeply to great depth near the shore. No surprise the anchor was sliding down after a few hours. A typical Greenland phenomenon that finished this night’s sleep for us.
Which turned out to be a good thing. The day started with a beautiful sunrise, which most would have missed otherwise. A stunning start into a golden Greenland late summer day! And we got several hours extra. We had made our first walk on the bright yellow and red tundra in Rødefjord already before breakfast.
The icebergs that are grounded near Røde Ø are world class. Scenery-wise, Greenland is second to nothing.
Gallery – Rødefjord – 2nd September 2019
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_1670
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
We continued northwards in the amazingly scenic Rødefjord with its intense reddish colours on the west side and steep islands like Sorte Ø and Store Ø on the east side. Large icebergs are drifting everywhere in the mirror-calm water, occasionally one rolls over or falls apart. A stunning panorama. We spend hours sitting silently on deck, just enjoying. Speechlessly.
Finally we reach one of few good anchorages in this area in Harefjord. Soon two shorelines are out, so it should be a calm night – unless northern lights would interrupt our sleep, which would be quite ok we enjoy the beautiful evening light on a little hill just above the anchor bay and call it a day.
Danmark Ø – 01st September 2019
Sun
1 Sep
2019
We reached Hekla Havn last night, a beautiful natural harbour on Danmark Ø, where we secured Anne-Margaretha with a sophisticated arrangement of shorelines perfectly well so we did not even need to keep anchor watch. Not a bad thing, a full night of sleep, just for a change, as we could all easily agree on.
Next morning, we went out by Zodiac. On an inconspicuous terrace above the shore, we found remains of an inuit settlement. A whole row of winter houses indicating a large settlement for pre-Danish Greenlandic standards. Almost a big city. With excellent views over the fjord.
You can find some of Scoresbysund’s most beautiful gneisses around Hekla Havn. Stunning colours and structures that nobody could think of, this is something just nature can create.
Gallery – Danmark Ø – 01st September 2019
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_1667
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
If you look closely, you can still see where Ryder’s expedition had their wintering base in 1891-92. They were the first Europeans who discovered and mapped Scoresbysund’s inner reaches. Without Ryder, maybe we wouldn’t know today that all these beautiful places exist, Fønfjord, Rødefjord, Øfjord and so on …
So we enjoyed a perfectly good Greenlandic morning on Danmark Ø and then we continued our voyage into Fønfjord, aiming for the innermost branches of the huge Scoresbysund.
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