Tue
5 Aug
2014
It is nice when Norwegian authorities do something useful, just for the change, such as charting the fjords here. Until recently we thought that you can walk rather than sail in the innermost part of Trygghamna. Now it has suddenly turned into a lovely anchorage for a calm night with a brilliant glacier view, which could even get us out for a short midnight walk at a time when most of us 12 here on board were actually already sleeping.
Alkhornet is a classic. Spitsbergen in a nutshale, you could sell it like this. Maybe something for tourists from the far east, who never have enough time. Direct flight to Longyearbyen, speed boat to Trygghamna, 2 hours walk at Alkhornet. And you have seen it all. Really! Well, almost. That’s why we keep going now for another 16 days. I am sure we will find something we haven’t seen this morning.
But the tundra at Alkhornet is a green meadow. The bird cliff, high up, brings fertilizer and background music. Down on the tundra, the reindeer are doing what they are good at: eating. Quite successfully so, as the diameter of the big ones makes unmistakably clear. Spitsbergen’s nicest and strongest reindeer, and the cutest calves, treating their mothers’ bellies with a lot of gusto to squeeze every drop of the rich milk out that the cows have produced from the tundra.
Another Nøis hut at Alkhornet, built in 1920, now just a ruin. It was used during 5 winters by Ewald Schmutzler from Thuringia between 1923 and 1941. Old stories.
Where has the wind gone? But rather a calm afternoon with some engine noise than throwing up under sails.
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
A late evening walk on some tiny islands in northern Bellsund rounds the day nicely off. Wild coastal rocks, beaten by waves most of the time, rarely seen from close distance, but nice and calm tonight.