The long circumnavigation of Spitsbergen with SV Antigua is always an important milestone in peak season. This is the case even when the trip turns out not to be a circumnavigation. Instead, at some point we had to continue the opposite way. Not only does this sound better than going back, but it is quite true. This point was reached at the ice edge in southern Hinlopen, where it became obvious for everybody who was there that a sailing ship, and actually any vessel other than the very strongest ones, would not continue any further that way. But think of all we would have missed had things gone any other way! The whales far out on open sea, the Little auks in Hyttevika … to mention just to events that cross my mind very spontaneously.
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The polar bear in Raudfjord that appeared exactly where I had picked up the last ones just minutes earlier. The colours of the tundra, full with countless flowers, surprise meetings with scientists … not to mention the three polar bears, not related, who happened to be all in the same place, on the ice of the lagoon of Mushamna, following their individual ways for hours, meeting occasionally for moments, keeping a watchful eye on one another. No human will ever know what a polar bear really thinks of any other polar bear. Usually, they will treat each other with respect and be rather careful. We were blessed with an opportunity to observe that for the best parts of a memorable day.