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Home → September, 2019

Monthly Archives: September 2019 − News & Stories


Hall Bred­ning – 5th Sep­tem­ber 2019

It is an ear­ly start into the day. Well, actual­ly it was even ear­lier than that. The nort­hern light. And then, a few hours later, the alarm went. We have a lot of miles ahead of us. Soon we are on our way. And get a stun­ning sun­ri­se abo­ve the rug­ged islands of Bjør­neøer­ne. And a very atmo­s­phe­ric morning mist.

The idea was to make the distance to Itto­q­qor­toor­mi­it (Scores­by­sund vil­la­ge) today to make a visit to this nort­hern one of only two com­mu­nities in east Green­land tomor­row. But after a look at the latest wea­ther fore­cast we deci­ded to set cour­se for the open sea and Ice­land strai­gh­ta­way. It will be good to get into a har­bour the­re befo­re the next storm hits the area of our open sea pas­sa­ge. We do still have a chan­ce to make it in time and we don’t want to miss it. Fin­gers cros­sed.

Gal­le­ry – Hall Bred­ning – 5th Sep­tem­ber 2019

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

The pas­sa­ge through Hall Bred­ning, as the lar­ge, wide-open cen­tral part of Scores­by­sund is cal­led, is stun­ning. Mir­ror-flat water, sun, blue sky and ice­bergs. We put the Zodiac on the water once again to cir­cle around an espe­cial­ly beau­ti­ful one. A lovely way to say good­bye to Green­land. For this time.

It is still lovely and cosy. I am curious what the next two days bring. It might not be this calm all the way through.

Øfjord – Bjør­neøer­ne – 4th Sep­tem­ber 2019

The Øfjord („Island fjord“) con­nects the inner­most bran­ches of the Scores­byund such as Harefjord with the lar­ge, more open part in the midd­le known as Hall Bred­ning. It is, out of the three fjords around Mil­ne Land, the one with the gran­dest sce­ne­ry: five to seven kilo­me­tres from shore to shore, the waters in many pla­ces more than 1000 metres deep, sur­roun­ded by steep moun­tains up to more than 2000 metres high. One ver­ti­cal tower of gneiss and gra­ni­te next to the other one, wild, uncoun­ted and most cer­tain­ly unclim­bed, most of them, with high, ver­ti­cal walls. And just by the way, the land­s­cape whe­re we are hap­pi­ly moving through under sun and sail was once the deep-sea­ted root of a moun­tain ran­ge of the distant geo­lo­gi­cal past.

Gal­le­ry – Øfjord – Bjør­neøer­ne – 4th Sep­tem­ber 2019

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

We find a lovely ancho­ra­ge in Jyt­tes Havn in the islands of Bjør­neøer­ne. Soon we are on our way, hiking up one of the rocky hills to enjoy a stun­ning pan­ora­ma view.

The night is not as calm as we had anti­ci­pa­ted, but we are hap­py to accept the inter­rup­ti­on cau­sed by a lovely dis­play of nort­hern lights.

Harefjord – 3rd Sep­tem­ber 2019

As men­tio­ned, the­re are not too many good ancho­ra­ges in many parts of Green­land, aber the­re are some. We spent a calm night in a small bay in Harefjord, one of Scoresbysund’s inner bran­ches.

The inland ice is not far from here, so we wan­ted to get as clo­se as we could. It does not have to be a cros­sing of the inland ice. If that is real­ly what you want is a ques­ti­on that ever­yo­ne has his or her own ans­wer for. Per­so­nal­ly, I appre­cia­te the varie­ty and the beau­ty of the fjord land­s­capes. Such as here, in Harefjord. Musk oxen here and the­re on the slo­pes. We climb a ridge and a morai­ne to find our­sel­ves sit­ting abo­ve a crev­as­sed gla­cier. Stun­ning views of an ama­zing land­s­cape. This is as clo­se to the inland ice as we can get here and now. We are more than hap­py with this.

Gal­le­ry – Harefjord – 3rd Sep­tem­ber 2019

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

The­re are beau­ti­ful hills and moun­tains ever­y­whe­re here, and you can walk or climb as far and as high as you wish, can and have time. Time is not unli­mi­ted for us, but we have enough for abso­lute­ly stun­ning views of Harefjord and suroun­dings.

Rødefjord – 2nd Sep­tem­ber 2019

Well, last night’s ancho­ra­ge in inner­most Fønfjord was not exact­ly gre­at. The sea bot­tom was slo­ping stee­ply to gre­at depth near the shore. No sur­pri­se the anchor was sli­ding down after a few hours. A typi­cal Green­land phe­no­me­non that finis­hed this night’s sleep for us.

Which tur­ned out to be a good thing. The day star­ted with a beau­ti­ful sun­ri­se, which most would have mis­sed other­wi­se. A stun­ning start into a gol­den Green­land late sum­mer day! And we got several hours extra. We had made our first walk on the bright yel­low and red tun­dra in Rødefjord alrea­dy befo­re bre­ak­fast.

The ice­bergs that are groun­ded near Røde Ø are world class. Sce­ne­ry-wise, Green­land is second to not­hing.

Gal­le­ry – Rødefjord – 2nd Sep­tem­ber 2019

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

We con­ti­nued nor­thwards in the ama­zin­gly sce­nic Rødefjord with its inten­se red­dish colours on the west side and steep islands like Sor­te Ø and Store Ø on the east side. Lar­ge ice­bergs are drif­ting ever­y­whe­re in the mir­ror-calm water, occa­sio­nal­ly one rolls over or falls apart. A stun­ning pan­ora­ma. We spend hours sit­ting silent­ly on deck, just enjoy­ing. Speech­less­ly.

Final­ly we reach one of few good ancho­ra­ges in this area in Harefjord. Soon two shore­li­nes are out, so it should be a calm night – unless nort­hern lights would inter­rupt our sleep, which would be qui­te ok we enjoy the beau­ti­ful evening light on a litt­le hill just abo­ve the anchor bay and call it a day.

Dan­mark Ø – 01st Sep­tem­ber 2019

We reached Hek­la Havn last night, a beau­ti­ful natu­ral har­bour on Dan­mark Ø, whe­re we secu­red Anne-Mar­ga­re­tha with a sophisti­ca­ted arran­ge­ment of shore­li­nes per­fect­ly well so we did not even need to keep anchor watch. Not a bad thing, a full night of sleep, just for a chan­ge, as we could all easi­ly agree on.

Next morning, we went out by Zodiac. On an incon­spi­cuous ter­race abo­ve the shore, we found remains of an inu­it sett­le­ment. A who­le row of win­ter houses indi­ca­ting a lar­ge sett­le­ment for pre-Danish Green­lan­dic stan­dards. Almost a big city. With excel­lent views over the fjord.

You can find some of Scoresbysund’s most beau­ti­ful gneis­ses around Hek­la Havn. Stun­ning colours and struc­tures that nobo­dy could think of, this is some­thing just natu­re can crea­te.

Gal­le­ry – Dan­mark Ø – 01st Sep­tem­ber 2019

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

If you look clo­se­ly, you can still see whe­re Ryder’s expe­di­ti­on had their win­te­ring base in 1891-92. They were the first Euro­peans who dis­co­ve­r­ed and map­ped Scoresbysund’s inner reaches. Without Ryder, may­be we wouldn’t know today that all the­se beau­ti­ful pla­ces exist, Fønfjord, Rødefjord, Øfjord and so on …

So we enjoy­ed a per­fect­ly good Green­lan­dic morning on Dan­mark Ø and then we con­ti­nued our voya­ge into Fønfjord, aiming for the inner­most bran­ches of the huge Scores­by­sund.

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