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Home → October, 2019

Monthly Archives: October 2019 − Travelblog

Skarberget & Tranøy

We are a good bit further south and now we are in the Lofoten area. Not yet Lofoten proper, but we could see them from here if it was clear. “Here” is Tysfjord, a large, beautiful fjord that is cutting into Norway opposite of the northern Lofoten islands.

You can make lovely hikes in this area. We opt for Skarberget. Weather-wise, it took a bit of motivation, but then … it is great as soon as you are out there, with snow and fresh wind! The views are not quite as amazing as they might be on a clear day, though.

Gallery – Skarberget & Tranøy

Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.

Later we move over to Tranøy. Again some amazing maneouvring by Mario to get alongside in this tiny littl port. The art park of Tranøy is waiting for us! Who cares about cold, darkness and rain if you can go out and see various pieces of art!

Yes, the weather. Could be better.

Skrolsvik & Harstad

We arrive at Skrolsvik on the southwestern point of Senja at breakfast time. Sun and snow are bathing the landscape in ever-changing winter light.

You can do everything from short walks to mountain climbing here. We are happy with a good walk up a mountain slope or an easy walk following a path to the coast. There are also some fortifications here which the Germans built during the war.

The owners of the old store („Gammelbutikken“) are so kind to open especially for us. The lovely wooden building was built in 1870 and it served as the local store for all kinds of daily use stuff from 1925 to 1992. Now it is kept as kind of a museum. And you can still buy all sorts of lovely things here.

Gallery – Skrolsvik and Harstad

Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.

Then we continue to Harstad on the island of Hinnøya which belongs to Vesterålen. The Germans (again …) put up some crazy guns and fortifications here during the war. The historical museum and the medieval church are unfortunately closed today.

Skjervøy, Nord-Lenangen

We departed late night from Finnkroken and set course to the northeast, to Skjervøy, with high hopes to find orca that had been seen there recently. But the weather had different ideas. It did not make much sense to try to find whales in force 6-7 winds, so we just turned and set sail, which was lovely in the snow …

Gallery – Tromsø – Finnkroken

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… and a couple of hourse later we were in Nord-Lenangen, a calm little place in a silent fjord – lovely winter scenery and atmosphere!

Later, back on board, we got into the northern light mode and made preparations for further sightings by having a look at the photography side of it (if you are interested, then have a look at Rolf’s northern light page for a refresher). Then we set course to the south, passing Tromsø, and then heading for Senja.


A lovely early winter day in Tromsø, on 70 degrees north – cold and clear, calm and sunny.

Everybody is coming on board SV Antigua in the late afternoon. It feels like late evening, but it is really just the late afternoon – sunset just after 15.00 hours and it is kind of getting dark an hour later.

But the lights up there are turned on again. First class northern lights! We enjoy the magic in the harbour, with the lights above the long bridge and the famous cathedral, and during the first miles of our voyage.

We go alongside after two hours sailing in Finnkroken on the island of Reinøya. A tiny little pier and the chance for an evening walk and to put the tripod up on solid ground – the northern light show is still going on.

Gallery – Tromsø – Finnkroken

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We get a very warm welcome. What a pleasant surprise! There are indeed people here who do not mind to see tourists! Jo Martin is one of a dozen people who are living here (is it really that many?). He is the owner of an old trading post next to the pier. It was founded in 1802 and it is really a bit of a time capsule! At the same time, there is a path into the wood which is marked by torches, so we can easily find the way to a lavvo (large tent) which is heated by a fire inside – while the northern lights are dancing on the sky! How good is that!? Incredible! What a great start into the voyage!

Tromsø – 26th October, 2019

The polar night is about to start – the last sunset and sunrise in Longyearbyen are today. In Tromsø, we are about to start again, exploring the north under sail with SV Antigua. The light of the north, northern lights, beautiful landscapes and places with a taste of winter, orcas – that is a substantial part of our wishlist for the next week.

But now, there is still time to get a few things done here in Tromsø. New Spitsbergen driftwood picture frames and kitchen slats need to get on their way (I thought I may just mention that 🙂 ), I want to meet some friends and in the evening, there are some impressive fireworks on the night sky!

Gallery – Tromsø – 26th October 2019

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