Yesterday (Wednesday, 15 October) a polar bear visited Longyearbyen (see yesterday’s post here). The bear was finally driven away by the Sysselmannen (police), who followed it several kilometres by helicopter to make sure it would return directly.
But it did. Now, the polar bear is somewhere on the sea shore of Adventfjord adjacent to Adventdalen, close to Longyearbyen. Together with the Norwegian Polar Institute, the Sysselmannen is now preparing an attempt to sedate the polar bear and then fly out out to a remote location in the Spitsbergen archipelago.
The Sysselmannen asks everybody to stay away from there area until this has been done.
The polar bear is approximately in the area marked red near Longyearbyen. Image base: Google Earth.
Polar bears were seen in the vicinity of Longyearbyen several times during the last couple of weeks, for example in Hiorthhamn, on the north side of Adventfjord about 3 km from town, in late August, and in nearby Adventdalen.
Last sunday (12 October) morning, a polar bear was seen just east of Isdammen, the lake east of Longyearbyen, near the road. But the “highlight” was certainly the bear that actually entered the lower part of Longyearbyen, near Adventdalen, today (Wednesday, 15 October) in the early morning. The polar bear came from Adventfjord and walked past Ingeniør Paulsen (a shop) and to the row of residential buildings east of Forskningsparken (the UNIS/Svalhardmuseum building), walking directly next to the houses in vei 238, partly between them. Then, it went back into Adventdalen, where it was found by the police near the first dogyard, only a few 100 metres from town. The Sysselmannen (police) scared the bear away and followed it for a while by helicopter to make sure it would not return straightaway. It went into Mälardalen, a valley on the opposite side of Adventdalen.
It was an unpleasant surprise for the inhabitants of the houses in vei 238 to see the polar bear tracks where some had been walking lately in the evening before. The thought of suddenly meeting a polar bear on the way home from school, work or the pub is quite unpleasant. At least, most people do not lock their doors, so in the worst case most houses offer shelter in case it is urgently needed.
The Sysselmannen asks everybody to be careful, especially as the dark season is now starting and a bear may be difficult or impossible to see before it is actually close.
This time, the polar bear was not only in Hiorthhamn, as in this photo from late August, but actually in Longyearbyen, close to Adventdalen. It may have been the same individual.
Several polar bears have been hanging out in the Billefjord area, north of Longyearbyen, for quite a while already. These have ben seen many times by tourists and the 14 persons who are working and living in the largely abandoned Russian settlement Pyramiden. Several times during the summer, a bear has been seen inside Pyramiden, also directly next to hotel Tulipan, where several people live and where guests are lodged.
Now, the polar bear has literally gone a step too far: during the night to Monday, it went through a window into the bar to have a look around. The human inhabitants of the hotel were woken up by the noise, but preferred to leave the polar bear alone to its business. No information has been published about damaged that is likely to have happened, other than that the living bear was not interested in his padded conspecific fellow. It is not known if the polar bear showed any interested in the strong drinks that are stored in the bar.
In any case, it had already left when the Sysselmannen arrived on the scene. Despite a 1.5 hour helicopter search, the bar bear could not be found.
As repeated attempts to scare the polar bear away from Pyramiden have not yielded anything beyond short-term success, the Sysselmannen has now decided to tranquilize the bear and move him to a remote destination when he comes back.
Probably, you have to read the headline twice to believe it: yes, people were grunting at walrusses, not the other way around. This remarkable event is said to have happened on July 16 at Torellneset in Hinlopen Strait during a passenger landing from MS Expedition.
A guest wrote a letter later to Sysselmannen and Svalbardposten, because 2 “wildlife specialists” from the ship disturbed walrusses to achieve “good” photographs. The 2 “specialists” are said to have approached walrusses in shallow water to distances of about 2 metres and then to have “barked” and “grunted”, assumably to make the walrusses move for “better” photographs. Later, other staff justified this behavious by saying the “specialists” knew what they were doing.
According to the Svalbard environmental act, it is forbidden to “hunt, catch, harm or kill” animals. The Sysselmannen will investigate if the incident is a breach of legal regulations. In any case, an active approach of less than 30 metres distance is not allowed according to AECO-regulations. AECO is an organisation of ship-based arctic tour operators with, amongst others, the purpose of self-regulation. To achieve this, AECO has created guidelines which are often stricter than legal requirements. These guidelines are binding for members such as the operator of the MS Expedition, who has announced internal investigations and confirmed a general dedication to high environmental standards. AECO is now considering to discuss the incident on their annual member meeting.
In any case, an approach to about 2 metres distance to walrusses for touristic purposes is definitely not acceptable. It is also completely unnecessary: walrusses, usually rather lazy and inactive on shore, are often lively and curious in the water. It is not too unusual that curious walrusses themselves approach people who are standing on land near the waterline to close distances – without any disturbance of wildlife by barking or grunting or whatever.
It is usually easy to see on photographs if animals have been disturbed. Such photos are today hardly accepted anymore by professional publishers.
Walrusses can be very curious when swimming: these animals decided freely to approach a group of tourists, who were not moving, without any disturbance of anyone or anything. An active approach of tourists to such close distance is neither allowed nor acceptable.
After a delay of nearly four months, the Sysselmannen´s new ship Polarsyssel could be named and officially taken into service on Saturday, September 20th. The ceremony was held at the ‘Gammelkaia’ in Longyearbyen in the presence of the Norwegian Minister of Justice Anders Amundsen.
The Polarsyssel replaces the Nordsyssel which in September last year, after it´s eleventh season in service for the Sysselmannen, left Spitsbergen for the last time. To compensate the new ship´s delay the beginning of this year´s season, starting in May, was run by a ship of the Icelandic coastguard called Tyr.
Unlike former ships of the Sysselmannen, the new Polarsyssel was custom-built for service in Spitsbergen and is equipped for the special requirements of the Sysselmannen. The vessel´s main tasks will be in the fields of rescue operations, environmental monitoring and the prevention of oil pollution.
The Polarsyssel is equipped with a helicopter deck, a winch to tow other vessels, infrared and optic cameras to find persons or leaking oil, water cannons to fight fire, a medical room, two work-boats which can be launched quickly and the facilities for an external power supply to save fuel when the ship lies at the pier in Longyearbyen. With the Polarsyssel a ship with the ice class 1B was chosen, differing from its antecessor ‘Nordsyssel’ which had the highest ice class 1A Super. The Polarsyssel has a crew of 9 persons, cabin space for 21 passengers and a capacity for 35 day-passengers.
The hull was built in Turkey and the ship was then mounted and equipped in the Havyard shipyard in the Norwegian town Leirvik. She is leased out to the Sysselmannen by the shipping company Remøy Management. Owner of the vessel is the Icelandic company Fafnir Offshore. The contract for using the Polarsyssel ends in 2020 for the time being. After this, the Sysselmannen has the option to renew it until 2024. The costs for using the ship will be 329 million Norwegian Kroner in the first ten years. Though, each season the Polarsyssel will only stay in Spitsbergen for six months, from May to November. During winter time it will serve on other occasions for example as a supply vessel for the offshore oil industry.
The new Polarsyssel will probably not win beauty contests, but she is an extremely functional ship (Foto: Cemreshipyard.com).
The famous Oktoberfest in Munich, said to be the world’s largest folk festival, has its little brother in Spitsbergen: On Thursday (25th September), the local Oktoberfest in Longyearbyen was opened with a little procession. The hard nights of drinking overpriced beer (but more than 120 kinds of it!) in an overcrowded tent, live music and presentations about beer were to follow until Saturday, inlcuding the choir of the Norwegian mining company Store Norske and the “Schnapskapelle”, a gathering of local musical talents exclusively brought together for the occasion.
The present author does not know any more about it, as he preferred the view over some silent valleys in gorgeous late September light at the time in questions.
The Longyearbyen Oktoberfest has been a regular event now for several years and it is safe to assume that you can join next year if you want to.
The procession to open the Oktoberfest in Longyearbyen.
This snapshot is definitely amongst this summer’s better ones: A polar bear was stalking a camp of students in Billefjord for a while last week, until it was decided to evacuate the camp and let the bear do whatever it wanted to. On that occasion, Elida Langstein managed to get this photo of the polar bear leaving a tent with a Svalbardbutikken plastic bag in his mouth.
It is not known what exactly was inside the bag.
Polar bear with Svalbardbutikken plastic bag in a camp in Billefjord. Photo: Elida Langstein.
This is the historical discovery of the year in the Arctic – at least: The Canadian government has announced to have found the wreck of one of the two ships of John Franklin’s expedition.
John Franklin was out to find the Northwest Passage with 2 ships, HMS Erebus and HMS Terror, and 129 men, sailing into the passage in 1845. Both ships and all men disappeared. Many expeditions were sent out to rescue Franklin and his men or to find out what had happened. This was a boost for geographical exploration in the Canadian arctic, but the fate of Franklin’s expedition was never fully resolved. After years, the first traces were found; it became clear that the men had left the ships, trying to reach safety, a hopeless effort considering the vast distances and the harsh climate. There were signs of cannibalism, but most must have died of starvation, cold and scurvy. Lead poisoning may have added to an overall health decline. Franklin had already died before the ships were deserted.
The 2 ships had been equipped with everything one could think of at that time, it was one of the largest arctic expeditions ever and its loss was a trauma for the British Royal Navy. The discovery of one of the 2 ships 169 years later is a sensation. It is so far unknown if it is the wreck of the HMS Erebus or the HMS Terror.
The Canadian government has put the search for Franklin’s ships on the agenda some years ago.
Franklin’s ships HMS Erebus and HMS Terror in the Northwest Passage (source: Wikimedia Commons).
The new Spitsbergen calendar 2015 by Rolf Stange is now here, fresh from the printer and it can be ordered from now on. 12 impressions from Spitsbergen: around the island and through the seasons, encounters with wildlife, scenery, light and flowers from the polar night to the midnight sun.
As before, the Spitsbergen calendar 2015 is available in the handy A5 format and large in A3. Click here for more information, images and ordering.
Longyearbyen is not just the cheapest accommodation in Longyearbyen, but also one of the most popular places to stay, as you are in the middle of nature there: in good weather, the view across Isfjord is great. Reindeer, polar foxes and a range of different birds are regular guests, and if you are lucky, you can even see belugas near the shore, that happens several times every summer.
On a nice day in August, I shot a panorama tour which is now online, so you can walk across Longyearbyen Camping now on the internet. There is also a panorama of the campsite taken in the polar night, when it is obviously closed, but nevertheless a very interesting place to visit …
It has been a good summer with a lot of fine weather, and Longyearbyen Camping has done very well with about 2800 guest nights. As an experience, it is worthwhile to mention that you need to bring your own sleeping bag, insulation blanket and tent if you want to stay there. Longyearbyen Camping has limited amounts of rental equipment, but the capacity may be in full use in peak season. When guests come, as happened several times, without anything and without a reservation for rental equipment (or a “reservation” made very shortly before arrival), then bad luck may strike and nothing is available, which translates as: you don’t have a place to sleep. Not great. So: just bring your own stuff or get in touch with Longyearbyen Camping well in advance to make sure they have got what you need. And then: have a good time there 🙂
A polar bear has been observed roaming around near Longyearbyen for more than a week. Since 21st August, the bear has been seen in Hiorthhamn, on the north side of Adventfjord, a few kilometres away from Longyearbyen, where more than 2000 people live.
There is a number of weekend huts in Hiorthhamn, and some of them have suffered damage by the polar bear, which is always looking for food, besides generally being a curious animal anyway. It has since been seen in side valleys (Mälardalen, Hanaskogdalen), and most recently in Adventdalen near Janssonhaugen, where it seems to have found a dead reindeer, securing food for some days. It is, however, not 100 percent certain that it is really one and the same polar bar.
There is significant traffic in all these areas: tourists are on tour there, and so are students and locals in their free time. Additionally, it is reindeer hunting season.
Everybody moving around on his own is reminded that potentially aggressive polar bears have to be expected anywhere and at any time outside the populated settlements. A suitable, heavy calibre weapon is necessary for tours even close to Longyearbyen. Additionally, a deterrent such as a signal pistol with special noise-making ammunition to scare polar bears away does not only make a lot of sense, to solve dangerous situations without doing harm to a bear, but it is also legally binding now to have a deterrent. Pepper spray is, however, not recommended by the authorities in Spitsbergen, although it can make an important contribution if used, for example, from the relative safety of a hut to get rid of a very curious or even aggressive bear without doing harm to it. It must, however, not be relied on as the only means of “safety”.
The polar bear near Longyearbyen has, so far, not been aggressive. Generally speaking, polar bears are usually not aggressive towards man, but there are exceptions to the role, such as a very hungry bear. Also in Pyramiden, a Russian settlement largely deserted since 1998, polar bears have been seen several times during the summer, also in central parts.
This polar bear has been roaming for more than a week near Longyearbyen. Here at a weekend hut in Hiorthhamn on the other side of the fjord.
The arctic season 2014 ist not over yet, but a good number of photo galleries are already online, and so is my arctic blog, of course. The recent trips in Spitsbergen with SV Antigua and SY Arctica II have both been amazing. Both yielded a wealth of impressions and memories, some of them captured with the camera, and you are welcome to join these trips now online.
Within a few weeks, I will add slideshows of the individual trips on the respective sites, and there is still one more trip to come in September.
The Greenpeace-ship ‘Esperanza’ which is currently sailing in the waters around Spitsbergen has repeatedly violated the new pilotage regulations, being step-by-step established since July 2012.
The ‘Esperanza’ is present around Spitsbergen this summer to call attention to the impact of climate change to the arctic and to protest against the expansion of oil exploration to the Barents Sea. As a prominent supporter for this campaign amongst others the British actress Emma Thompson was aboard.
In the end of July it was noticed that the ship violated the new pilotage regulations on Spitsbergen for several times. For a round-trip which was accompanied by the actress Emma Thompson therefore a pilot was taken aboard. In the Middle of August the captain of the ‘Esperanza’ then again acted against the regulations as he led the ship towards Longyearbyen without a pilot. As before, the incident was reported to the Sysselmannen and this time the captain had to pay a fine of 50.000 Kroner.
The Sysselmannen and the Norwegian Kystverk regret that it was just Greenpeace who violated a regulation which actually is supported by the organization. In the same spirit Greenpeace expressed their regret. Greenpeace appreciates the establishment of pilotage regulations on Spitsbergen and, environmental protection in mind, generally supports regulations that contribute to safety in the maritime traffic. In the incidents in the end of July Greenpeace was not aware of the fact that their ship was already affected by the new regulations, especially as they had an own ice-navigator aboard supporting the captain. In the recent incident in August the captain had, as he said, waited 1.5 hours for the pilot who was delayed. After that he decided to sail towards Longyearbyen without a pilot.
Compulsory pilotage gets step-by-step established on Spitsbergen since the 1st of July 2012 (see also Spitsbergen-Svalbard.com news from July 2012). Currently, for the season 2014, it affects vessels with a length of 70 meters or more and passenger vessels with a length of 24 meters or more, except expedition cruise vessels. In the season 2015 there will no longer be such exceptions and the regulations will be the same as on the Norwegian mainland.
The ‘Esperanza’, currently sailing in the waters around Spitsbergen.
Not just in winter the glaciers and mountains surrounding Longyearbyen (some known for their crevasses) pose danger. Also in summer it is very important to pay close attention; for example, to the partly steep and rocky subsurface tunneled by melt water.
Just recently when descenting (from) the Sarkofagen (which is situated at the westside of the Larsbreen/Lars-Glacier), a 21 year old norwegian guide broke her leg. Because there was no cellphone service available at the site of the accident, members of the group had to hike back up the mountain to call for help by informing the Sysselman. The hurt tour guide and her entire group of tourist from various nations were then flown out to Longyearbyen, where she got a cast at the local hospital and was later transported to Tromsø.
Sakrofagen (on the left hand side) view from Lars-Glacier
As last year explosives of he Word War II have been found arround Longyearbyen this time on the mountain Platåberget. Due to the finding traffic in the area is banned. The grenade could been deactivated.