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Home → November, 2016

Monthly Archives: November 2016 − Travelblog


Lon­gyear­breen – 20th Novem­ber 2016

I may have men­tio­ned it befo­re: the polar night is not exact­ly the time for fre­quent long field trips. You can easi­ly enjoy the nice light and atmo­s­phe­re wit­hin Lon­gye­ar­by­en. And if the­re is a nort­hern light the­re are good pla­ces direct­ly next to town. If you want some exer­cise, then the sports­hall or run­ning shoes are good opti­ons. At least as long as the­re is not enough snow for ski or snow shoes.

And when you do ven­ture on a hike in the darkness, then the ter­rain does cur­r­ent­ly not make it easy. Lar­ge parts of the sur­face in the val­leys are iced over and very slip­pe­ry. Which is hard to see in darkness. So you have to walk slow­ly and care­ful­ly.

All this makes it even more inte­res­ting to ima­gi­ne how it was when Alfred Rit­scher came on foot down from Wij­defjord to Lon­gye­ar­by­en, which was cal­led Lon­gye­ar City back then. In Decem­ber 1912, Rit­scher made an unbe­liev­a­ble hike under the grea­test dif­fi­cul­ties and dan­gers you can ima­gi­ne. He did not have a detail­ed map, he did not know the ter­rain, he did not have a head­lamp which he could switch on whenever nee­ded …

Gal­le­ry – Lon­gyear­breen – 20th Novem­ber 2016

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Well, we did not want to go that far. We were hap­py with a walk up to Lon­gyear­breen. That is a short and (rela­tively) easy walk when you have light and nor­mal con­di­ti­ons, I have done it with friends tog­e­ther with their litt­le child­ren. But in the polar night, it is inte­res­ting. And beau­ti­ful!

Lon­gye­ar­by­en – 16th Novem­ber, 2016

Again, the blog had to wait for a wile. Busy times, even in the polar night. You have to be rea­dy to get out, to look for, enjoy and pho­to­graph nort­hern lights at any time. Hard life. The­re is no snow, unfor­tu­n­a­te­ly. Hard to belie­ve, here in Spits­ber­gen in mid Novem­ber! But the auro­ra is beau­ti­ful, even without snow. And lady auro­ra has a lot of ardent wor­s­hip­pers. They meet out the­re when she is dan­cing on the sky and later on the inter­net, sharing and enjoy­ing the results.

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

And of cour­se peop­le are set­ting their minds for Christ­mas up here as well. The second half of Novem­ber is the time for the tra­di­tio­nal jule­mes­se, the Christ­mas mar­ket. Without hot spi­ced wine – we are in Nor­way, and the Nor­we­gi­ans would never touch alco­hol, would they? Well … right … But the­re is an ama­zin­gly high pro­por­ti­on of local­ly made pro­ducts, from self-made stol­len („bes­temors tyske jule­brød“, mea­ning „grandma’s Ger­man Christ­mas bread“ 🙂 ) through pho­tos and various knit­ted mate­ri­als to Wolfi’s lovely cut­ting boards, made by mas­ter craft­s­man Wolf­gang Zach in his work­shop bet­ween the fjord and Sys­sel­man­nen. The arc­tic under your bre­ak­fast bread, repre­sen­ted by polar bear, wha­le, wal­rus or Spits­ber­gen. May­be I have to export a box and make it avail­ab­le, what do you think?

Ves­t­pyn­ten – 11th Novem­ber, 2016

The polar night – a beau­ti­ful time in the high north. The sea­son of the blue light. Nort­hern lights, cold, snow, silence, time for yourself, for friends, for ever­ything you want.

That’s what you might think.

Rea­li­ty is dif­fe­rent. Tem­pe­ra­tures around zero and hard­ly much below. No snow, but a lot of wind and rain, recent­ly. The wind was tur­ning Isfjord’s calm waters into some­thing rather wild and furious, for a while, and the surf was sma­shing against the shore­li­ne.

Not good for the unf­ro­zen land. The­re is fjord now whe­re the­re used to be the shore, and the­re is shore now whe­re the­re used to be tun­dra. You don’t sleep in peace any­mo­re whe­re you could live a good life in a cosy hut just last week.

The cold coast isn’t that cold any­mo­re, and it is an ongo­ing pro­cess. Tho­se days now when an arti­fi­cial­ly uphea­ted and sti­mu­la­ted natu­re got clo­ser to man were the time when in the US – no, let’s not talk about it. It is just no fun at the time being, loo­king at the lar­ge events around the glo­be.

Rather than dis­cus­sing poli­tics, action was requi­red. A hut nee­ded to be emp­tied from ever­ything that had been nee­ded for a family’s life, bed and books, fur­ni­tu­re and fire­wood had to be moved away from the coast. Next to ever­ything else that was going on, the arc­tic book­wri­ting work­shop was qui­te busy at the same time and so on and so forth.

Gal­le­ry – Ves­t­pyn­ten – 11th Novem­ber, 2016

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

It would have been a nice job if it had not been a bit sad. Phy­si­cal work next to the fjord. The­re is still a bit of light around noon, you can just about ima­gi­ne the moun­tains on the nort­hern side of Isfjord. And the moun­tains on the other side of Advent­fjord are shi­ning through the darkness with all their beau­ty and cha­rac­ter.

Trom­sø, Kvaløya – 05th, 06th Novem­ber, 2016

(05th, 06th Novem­ber, 2016) – Whe­re were we … yes, Lofo­ten. It has been a while sin­ce. A lot has hap­pen­ed in the mean­ti­me, more about that later. Let’s get on with the blog, with the jour­ney, which took us back north, to Trom­sø and sur­roun­dings. A natu­ral sto­po­ver on the trip up to Spits­ber­gen.

And defi­ni­te­ly worth to spend more time the­re than just an hour bet­ween flights at the air­port. „Paris of the north“ may be a bit exa­g­ge­ra­ted, but it is a nice place, it has life, it is a good place to be. The old polar muse­um and the modern arc­tic show cent­re Pola­ria are natu­ral pla­ces to visit for any high lati­tu­de enthu­si­ast.

The waters near Trom­sø are now regu­lar­ly visi­ted by Orcas during their sea­son, as we saw so beau­ti­ful­ly just recent­ly. An orca safa­ri from Trom­sø has good chan­ces to make for a gre­at day, as it is cur­r­ent­ly.

And then the­re are the nort­hern lights. Of cour­se you need a bit of luck. You just won’t see anything without a clear sky and some elec­tro­ma­gne­tic acti­vi­ty in the magne­to­s­phe­re. But chan­ces are good, at least if you have a few days.

We had just two days in Trom­sø, but the timing was good. No com­p­lains about the nort­hern lights it is defi­ni­te­ly a good thing to be able to get around quick­ly and to keep a good eye on the local wea­ther. Whe­re is the sky clear, whe­re do you have good sce­ne­ry tog­e­ther with the auro­ra? And not too much arti­fi­cial light? That is actual­ly not that easy at all. It is good to know the pla­ces or at least to have a tho­rough look at the map. And the­re is also the opti­on to join a gui­ded nort­hern light cha­se by bus, which they offer regu­lar­ly in Trom­sø. That is not a bad opti­on at all, they know their busi­ness and they allow for sur­pri­sin­gly much time for obser­va­ti­on and pho­to­gra­phy when Lady Auro­ra is dan­cing.

Gal­le­ry – Trom­sø, Kvaløya – 05th, 06th Novem­ber, 2016

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Wit­hin the few hours of day­light, we even got a litt­le extra by sur­pri­se. On the out­side of the lar­ge island of Kvaløya, to the west of Trom­sø, the­re is the litt­le island Som­marøy. Red light of the low sun over the who­le sce­ne­ry with the sea, fjords, lots of small islets and stun­ning coast­li­nes. I was thin­king … Som­marøy, Som­marøy, I have heard that befo­re, and not too long ago. And yes: this is whe­re Wan­ny Wold­stad was born in 1895. The woman who later refer­red to herself as the „first woman as fangst­mann in Sval­bard“. Fangst­mann is Nor­we­gi­an for trap­per. She expli­ci­te­ly used the male ver­si­on of the word. And nobo­dy in the very male arc­tic sce­ne of the 1930s or later would ever mind. Ever­y­bo­dy knew her about her adven­tures as a polar bear hun­ter in Spits­ber­gen. Recent­ly, we had a chan­ce to visit the hut in Hyt­tevi­ka that she used during five long arc­tic win­ters. And now we saw the house whe­re she was born on Som­marøy.

Ves­t­fjord – 05th Novem­ber 2016

The rising sun saw us lea­ving the har­bour of Svol­vær. Out­side, we rea­li­zed that the wind was just about enough to set sails. So we quick­ly for­got about the idea to visit the litt­le vil­la­ge of Hen­nings­vær, we were all keen on see­ing Anti­gua under sails one more time. So up went the can­vas, and so did the spi­rits – it was just gre­at. Silence. No big waves, no swell. Warm light over sea and moun­tains. What a life! Just have a look at the pho­tos.

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

We will be back in Bodø in a few hours, the last har­bour of this trip. The last har­bour of this year’s arc­tic ship­ping sea­son. Tomor­row we will say good­bye, to SV Anti­gua, to her good peop­le. Well, we’ll meet again next year, so no tears. And for me, it is direct­ly up to Trom­sø and Lon­gye­ar­by­en 🙂

Svol­vær, Lauk­vik – 04th Novem­ber 2016

Svol­vær is a good place to relax a bit. It is not the cent­re of the world. A nice har­bour, some art gal­le­ries, a bar made out of ice, sce­nic sur­roun­dings.

For us, it was the star­ting point for our visit to the nort­hern light cent­re in Lauk­vik. Situa­ted on the nort­hern side of Aus­t­vå­gøy, the­re is a free view to most direc­tions and not too much arti­fi­cial light. This is whe­re Rob and The­res from the Nether­lands have estab­lis­hed their pri­va­te nort­hern light cent­re. They are obvious­ly living their pas­si­on, ever­ything is cen­te­red around nort­hern lights. Rob has got a room full of tech­no­lo­gy, which he built all by hims­elf, to make „direct con­ta­ct with the sun“ and the nort­hern lights, as he uses to say.

And they do have good con­ta­cts to hig­her levels. As soon as the pre­sen­ta­ti­on was finis­hed, we saw some nice nort­hern lights 🙂

Kabel­våg-Svol­vær – 04th Novem­ber 2016

The wea­ther is and remains beau­ti­ful. Clear sky, gent­le free­zing tem­pe­ra­tures during the night, low sun, beau­ti­ful colours. The sun is cur­r­ent­ly going up after 8 a.m. and down again near 3 p.m. Of cour­se, we have a long pha­se of twi­light. Altog­e­ther still qui­te a bit of light. Cer­tain­ly enough to go out­side and do nice things. We made a nice walk from Kabel­våg to Svol­vær today. That is not too far, in theo­ry you could do that in one hour. Of cour­se we took more time, enjoy­ing the land­s­cape. Rug­ged moun­tains, a silent lake, open wood­land, litt­le wet­lands here and the­re. Some of us took the more spor­ti­ve rou­te over Tjeld­berg­tin­den, 367 m high. I didn’t, it wouldn’t be a good idea with a cold, but I know the gre­at view from up the­re 🙂

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Skro­va, Kabel­våg – 03rd Novem­ber 2016

A beau­ti­ful long day, star­ting with walk across the island of Skro­va. White beaches in small, hid­den bays with light-blue water and Sea eagles cir­cling abo­ve us in the air.

We con­ti­nued under sails and sun to Kabel­våg. The­re, we got a true high­light in the evening – no, I am not tal­king about Sascha’s din­ner, which is a cer­tain high­light every day 🙂 no, the nort­hern light show. This was real­ly extra­or­di­na­ry!

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

P.S. of cour­se we also tal­ked about nort­hern light pho­to­gra­phy and put that know­ledge into good prac­ti­ce. I wro­te else­whe­re on this site about nort­hern lights and pho­to­gra­phy, click here if you are inte­res­ted in more info about that.

Skro­va – 02nd Novem­ber 2016

Yes, the­re were more nort­hern lights 🙂
 
 
 

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Troll­fjord, Skro­va – 02nd Novem­ber 2016

Natu­re has set herself a monu­ment in Troll­fjord. The place is obvious­ly famous for its impres­si­ve sce­ne­ry. Which does not suf­fer from fine wea­ther sur­roun­ded by rock­walls, several hund­red metres high, cir­cling with the Zodiac around Anti­gua, while Sea eagles are cir­cling on the sky … good life in the far north!

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

The pas­sa­ge into the har­bour of Skro­va, bet­ween many rocks and sker­ries, is very plea­sant. And so are the nort­hern lights. We had some nice ones in the late after­noon. Cer­tain­ly not the stron­gest ones ever, but nice. We could well do with some more acti­vi­ty, but they are having a break right now. Let’s see what hap­pens later. Fin­gers cros­sed.

Skrol­s­vik, Har­stad – 01st Novem­ber 2016

We came to Skrol­s­vik on our way south, a litt­le vil­la­ge on the sou­thern end of Sen­ja. Skrol­s­vik used to be a fishing vil­la­ge in the past, as most small pla­ces here. Nice­ly loca­ted bet­ween moun­tains, enligh­ted by the morning sund – north Nor­way can be so beau­ti­ful!

The old shop (Gam­mel­bu­tik­ken), nowa­days a muse­um, was ope­ned by the owners, Kris­tin and Gun­nar, espe­cial­ly for us. A litt­le time machi­ne, put­ting us 90 year back in histo­ry, into tho­se days, when fisher­men from the outer islands came in with their rowing boats every now and then to deli­ver their catch and to buy flour. Their wives would stay for 3 days to bake bread, as the­re was an ovn in the shop, which the fishers did not have at their homes. And if the wea­ther was bad, 3 days could quick­ly turn into a week or even more. Dif­fe­rent times … life is cer­tain­ly easier today.

Of cour­se, the­re is ple­nty of natu­re around Skrol­s­vik, skog og fjell (wood­lands and moun­tains) and you can do dif­fe­rent hikes. If we only had more time!

But we had plans for the after­noon. The pas­sa­ge to Har­stad went under the most beau­ti­ful noon sun­light. Else­whe­re you would pro­bab­ly call it morning light or evening atmo­s­phe­re or wha­te­ver, it does not mat­ter, it means all the same here and now. It was almost dark as we ent­e­red the har­bour of Har­stad clo­se to 4 p.m.

Some of us went to explo­re the aspects of zivi­li­sa­ti­on that Har­stad has to offer, like shops and cafés. Others ven­tu­red on a litt­le bus tour to visit some muse­ums on the near­by Tron­de­nes pen­in­su­la. We learnt that Har­stad used to be the cent­re of poli­ti­cal and eco­no­mi­c­al power in north Nor­way over many cen­tu­ries until it was qui­te recent­ly out­do­ne by Trom­sø. The famous viking chiefs who kil­led the chris­ti­an king of Nor­way St. Olav lived here. Later, they built a beau­ti­ful church here, the lar­gest one in Nor­way north of Trond­heim for a long time. And during the war, the Nazis built some migh­ty guns as part of their coas­tal for­ti­fi­ca­ti­on.

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

After a cosy evening in port in Har­stad, we con­ti­nued sou­thwards to get to Raft­sund and Troll­fjord during day­light. The wea­ther is sup­po­sed to remain nice! Yeah! 🙂

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