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Yearly Archives: 2022 − News & Stories

Duvefjord – 14th August 2022

This „right place, right time“ thing still appli­es to us here on the north side of Nord­aus­t­land. Stun­ning wea­ther in Duvefjord. Which has quite a cou­ple of side bays, and we went and had a look at some of them, hiking from one over to the next one. Ama­zing land­scapes, seen by very few peo­p­le, and waters that are rare­ly visi­ted by ships.

Gal­lery – Duvefjord – 14th August 2022

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Rijpfjord-Duvefjord – 13th August 2022

As men­tio­ned: it was a lucky com­bi­na­ti­on of right place and right time. Nord­aus­t­land was fri­end­ly with us, which is a rare thing. We expe­ri­en­ced some stun­nin­gly beau­tiful land­scapes and were able to do some real­ly ama­zing hikes.

Gal­lery – Rijpfjord-Duvefjord – 13th August 2022

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Nord­aus­t­land – 12th August 2022

After a bit of a grey day yes­ter­day – we could watch a polar bear on a small island dis­ap­pearing in the fog – it cle­ared up today. The wea­ther was on our side again, and it was to remain so for seve­ral days. We were (and still are) cle­ar­ly in the right area on the right time. Good stuff!

That is also the simp­le reason why the­re was just no time for blog wri­ting. I need to catch up a bit now.

We spent that Fri­day (12th August) on the north side of Nord­aus­t­land, in Nor­dens­ki­öld­buk­ta and in Rijpfjord. Stun­nin­gly beau­tiful sce­n­ery, bar­ren, of a high arc­tic, strong cha­rac­ter, not seen by many peo­p­les’ eyes. The­re are inde­ed places whe­re you can think that you might inde­ed be the first per­son the­re. Of cour­se that is impos­si­ble to tell for sure, and quite likely at least some geo­lo­gists have been the­re, they have been all over the place. But still, just the fact that the thought as such isn’t com­ple­te­ly non­sen­se is ama­zing, in the year 2022.

I lea­ve it up to the pic­tures to tell the rest of the sto­ry of this day.

Gal­lery – Nord­aus­t­land – 12th August 2022

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Fur­thest north – 11th August 2022

A wea­ther fore­cast that was quite bad espe­ci­al­ly for the nor­thwes­tern part of Spits­ber­gen made us move away from that area quick­ly, and a long night of sai­ling (motoring, actual­ly) took us to Sjuøya­ne, the nor­t­hern­most islands of Sval­bard. We pas­sed by Wal­denøya in wind and fog, but rea­ched Phippsøya not much later and could make a landing the­re.


Nor­thwest Spits­ber­gen – 10th August 2022

Nord­ves­th­jør­nest av Spits­ber­gen er et vel­dig vak­kert og variert områ­de, med man­ge spen­nen­de steder som man kan besøke. Været var litt grått men ellers fullt på vår side, og der­med ble det en vel­dig opp­le­vel­ses­rik dag. Vi begyn­te med en flott fot­tur på Dan­s­køya og så besøk­te vi noen hval­ros­ser på Ams­ter­damøya, ved siden av gam­le spek­kov­ner fra hval­fangst­tiden i Smee­ren­burg. Så til­ba­ke til Dan­s­køya. Det var en del stein­kob­be der på fjæ­re­st­ei­ne­ne, og ikke langt der­fra lig­ger fort­satt kul­tur­min­ner fra Andrée og Well­man sine nord­pol­fer­der i Vir­go­ham­na. På turen vide­re nord­o­ver gjor­de vi en avs­tik­ker inn i den utro­lig vak­re Fuglefjor­den. For en flott dag!

Gal­lery – Nor­thwest Spits­ber­gen – 10th August 2022

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Engelskbuk­ta, Ny-Åle­sund – 09th August 2022

Engelskbuk­ta gave us beau­tiful scenic views despi­te the low clouds.

Later, we rea­ched Ny-Åle­sund.

A lot could be writ­ten about the many beau­tiful impres­si­ons of this day, but it is late now …

Gal­lery – Engelskbuk­ta, Ny-Åle­sund – 09th August 2022

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Polar bear inci­dent in Ekm­anfjord

Today (Wed­nes­day, 08th August), a per­son was inju­red and a polar bear kil­led during an acci­dent at Sve­a­ne­set in Ekm­anfjord.

Not much is known so far in public, but a polar bear came into a camp with 25 French tou­rists. A woman recei­ved inju­ries to her arm, but her con­di­ti­ons appears not to be life threa­tening.

The polar bear was shot at during the event and it is now repor­ted dead.

Fur­ther details are not available at the moment.

Isfjord – 07th August 2022

We are off again, now with Arc­ti­ca II. Good stuff! Actual­ly, it doesn’t take much the­se days to make a start a good one: the trip actual­ly hap­pens, it starts as sche­du­led and with ever­y­bo­dy who is sup­po­sed to be here. That is enough to make us hap­py for now.

After a cou­ple of hours we had rea­ched Trygg­ham­na and took the oppor­tu­ni­ty for a first walk. To our ama­ze­ment, we find our­sel­ves wal­king in the fos­sil remains of a tro­pi­cal sea. Corals and other fos­sils ever­y­whe­re! But it is more than 300 mil­li­on years ago that they were ali­ve …

Gal­lery – Isfjord – 07th August 2022

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Spits­ber­gen with SV Anti­gua: Pho­tos & short online dia­ry

Last week we finis­hed the latest arc­tic voya­ge with SV Anti­gua in Spits­ber­gen. Now the­re are seve­ral pages with pho­to gal­le­ries and short nar­ra­ti­ons available to illus­tra­te this beau­tiful jour­ney. It is a pri­vi­le­ge to expe­ri­ence this and it is a plea­su­re to share it here with ever­y­bo­dy who might be curious – it was an ama­zing trip and it is cer­tain­ly worth having a look at the pic­tures. Click here to start.

Antigua, Magdalenefjord

Anti­gua in Mag­da­le­nefjord, on a beau­tiful mid July evening.


P.S. if you pre­fer to expe­ri­ence Spits­ber­gen yours­elf (whon wouldn’t?), then you can join us in Sep­tem­ber becau­se a cabin on Anti­gua is available again after a can­cel­la­ti­on. Click here for more infor­ma­ti­on or get in touch, ide­al­ly direct­ly with Geo­gra­phi­sche Rei­se­ge­sell­schaft (Ger­man spea­king depar­tu­re, so you should at least be able to under­stand some Ger­man).

Sveagru­va: air con­nec­tion is histo­ry

In 2017, it was deci­ded that the for­mer coal mining sett­le­ment of Sveagru­va would be aban­do­ned and actual­ly most­ly phy­si­cal­ly clea­ned up and remo­ved. A mile­stone was rea­ched recent­ly, on 01st August, when the final flight took off from Lon­gye­ar­by­en to Sveagru­va and back. This 20 minu­te air con­nec­tion has been the life­line for Sveagru­va for deca­des, more than 40,000 flights are said to have been ope­ra­ted.

Aircraft, Sveagruva

Air­plai­ne on the run­way of Sveagru­va.

Now, the litt­le air­port of Sveagru­va will be remo­ved. About 70 peo­p­le will work on this and other parts of the cle­a­nup pro­ject for the next cou­ple of months. During this time, they will live not live in the for­mer sett­le­ment any­mo­re, but on sup­p­ly ships.

Next year, a small work force of 8 is sche­du­led to do the last bits and pie­ces of the cle­a­nup, accor­ding to Sval­bard­pos­ten.

The for­mer coal mining sett­le­ment of Sveagru­va, inclu­ding the mines of Lun­ckef­jel­let and Sveagru­va, is well docu­men­ted on this web­site (click here).

The (almost) ever­y­day mad­ness con­ti­nues

It is nice to be some­whe­re remo­te, far away from civi­liza­ti­on and off­line, as we were on board SV Anti­gua until Wed­nes­day (27th July). Wit­hout any con­nec­tion to the out­side world other than satel­li­te-based com­mu­ni­ca­ti­on, far from fit for real inter­net.

Back in Lon­gye­ar­by­en, this all chan­ges. The world news are most­ly depres­sing, but obvious­ly not what this page is about. Com­pared to much of what is going on in the world, Spits­ber­gen is and remains a peaceful place wit­hout major trou­bles. But still, things hap­pen here and many of them are not gre­at at all.

One can only won­der what was got into some peo­p­le who are working within tou­rism in Spits­ber­gen, stee­ring ships or boats or being in respon­si­ble posi­ti­ons on them. Two French expe­di­ti­on ships (or small crui­se ships, wha­te­ver you pre­fer) got their guns remo­ved recent­ly becau­se they did not have the requi­red papers. About 50 wea­pons in total! That can inde­ed rai­se an eye­brow or two. At least, mista­kes made in this case were made on paper and not during navi­ga­ti­on on the bridge or in the field, whe­re major mista­kes can have enti­re­ly dif­fe­rent con­se­quen­ces.

As will beco­me clear in this case, in case anyo­ne may won­der. After the groun­ding of the Vir­go in Fuglefjord a cou­ple of weeks ago, the Oce­an Atlan­tic, a major expe­di­ti­on ship (or: see abo­ve) ope­ra­ted by Alba­tross Expe­di­ti­ons, touch­ed the ground (or ice?) some­whe­re. The inci­dent was serious enough to have cau­sed dama­ge to the hull, invol­ving ingres­si­on of water. And as if that had not yet been enough, the crew did not deem it neces­sa­ry to inform the Nor­we­gi­an mari­ti­me aut­ho­ri­ty, who could have dis­patched res­cue forces to be on stand-by in the vici­ni­ty of the Oce­an Explo­rer in case of an escala­ti­on. It is pro­ba­b­ly need­less to say that such a report to the mari­ti­me aut­ho­ri­ty would have been requi­red by law, and talk of luck that the situa­ti­on did not dete­rio­ra­te. The crew on board was able to con­trol the situa­ti­on. Nevert­hel­ess, someone on board felt uncom­for­ta­ble enough to make a pho­ne call at some stage, and soon the Oce­an Atlan­tic was escor­ted to Lon­gye­ar­by­en by a Nor­we­gi­an coast­guard ves­sel. Now the ship is ancho­red in Advent­fjord, awai­ting inspec­tion. Ear­lier con­trols this year had alre­a­dy reve­a­led more than 20 serious secu­ri­ty flaws.

Com­ment: inc­re­du­lous shaking of the head.

Ocean Atlantic, Longyearbyen

Oce­an Atlan­tic in the port of Lon­gye­ar­by­en.

Less dra­ma­tic, but nevert­hel­ess serious and making one won­der, is the inci­dent whe­re a Zodiac fleet belon­ging to Hon­di­us went to a small island in Kongsfjord to give their pas­sen­gers an oppor­tu­ni­ty to see a polar bear. Wit­nesses cla­im that the boats were clo­se enough to cau­se dis­tur­ban­ce of the ani­mal or even put peo­p­le or the bear at risk, but this may be a mat­ter of con­tro­ver­si­al deba­te; it is said that the boats were “at one time within 50 meters”, a distance that does not at all neces­s­a­ri­ly (but may) invol­ve dis­tur­ban­ce or even risk to life and limb of man or beast. It is not pos­si­ble to say more about this aspect of the inci­dent wit­hout fur­ther know­ledge of rele­vant details.

But one thing is clear, unfort­u­na­te­ly: the island in ques­ti­on is part of a bird sanc­tua­ry. From 15th May to 15th August, a mini­mum distance of 300 met­res from the island’s (and neigh­bou­ring islands) shores are requi­red for all traf­fic, inclu­ding boats. This regu­la­ti­on has been in force for deca­des.

Com­ment: also here, one can only won­der how this could hap­pen. The only expl­ana­ti­on this aut­hor can think of is an asto­nis­hing lack of know­ledge regar­ding rele­vant regu­la­ti­ons. This should not have hap­pen­ed to the expe­di­ti­on staff of a ship ope­ra­ted by a coma­pa­ny with deca­des of regio­nal expe­ri­ence, an opi­ni­on shared by the chief ope­ra­ting offi­cer of the com­pa­ny in ques­ti­on as repor­ted by Sval­bard­pos­ten. The inci­dent is likely the deba­te about a cer­ti­fi­ca­ti­on sche­me for gui­des, some­thing which in its­elf is not neces­sa­ry a bad thing at all, alt­hough this deba­te is not neces­s­a­ri­ly going a fruitful way eit­her, but that is ano­ther issue.

The final days from Raud­fjord to Isfjord

The last days of this voya­ge were just going so quick­ly, full of beau­ty and exci­te­ment as they were. I just didn’t mana­ge to wri­te any blog ent­ries during this time, so here is the update inclu­ding a slight­ly more exten­si­ve pho­to gal­lery, as I am able to use pro­per inter­net again. This chap­ter of the voya­ge star­ted in a slight­ly Raud­fjord and then took us to the magni­fi­cent St. Jons­fjord and the tun­dra on the west coast. It brought us the luck of a polar bear sight­ing (the only one other than the bears that we saw in the distance from Ny-Åle­sund) as well as the beau­ty of doing some miles under sails again in Isfjord befo­re we roun­ded the who­le thing off in Coles­buk­ta.

Gal­lery – From Raud­fjord to Isfjord – 24th to 26th july 2022

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Wood­fjord & Bock­fjord – 23rd July 2022

We cover­ed some good distance to the west – we must not for­get that we will need to get back to Lon­gye­ar­by­en at some stage. The ear­ly mor­ning saw us all the way down in inner­most Wood­fjord. Sce­n­ery of stun­ning beau­ty all around us, with ama­zing colours. And ama­zing amounts of pla­s­tic gar­ba­ge on the coast. A good bit less when we left, at least.

Bock­fjord has Spitsbergen’s only vol­ca­no, or vol­ca­nic ruin, that is. And a gre­at varie­ty of flowers, inclu­ding some pret­ty rare ones.

Gal­lery – Wood­fjord & Bock­fjord – 23rd July 2022

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Hin­lo­pen – 22nd July 2022

Gre­at that we made it as far as this – not­hing we could take for gran­ted con­side­ring the time we had left at this stage. But we made it into Hin­lo­pen and could enjoy a litt­le hike to and even onto the inland ice of nor­thwes­tern Spits­ber­gen as well as tent­hou­sands of Brünich’s guil­l­emots at Alkef­jel­let. And later, even a Blue wha­le! What a day!

Gal­lery – Hin­lo­pen – 22nd July 2022

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Murch­ison­fjord – 21st July 2022

Murch­ison­fjord – So we made it to nor­t­hern Hin­lo­pen Strait, to Nord­aus­t­land. The bar­ren, most­ly ice-cover­ed second lar­gest island of Sval­bard. A very strong scenic con­trast to all that we had seen so far on this trip. Go to the Panos Murch­ison­fjord.

Gal­lery – Murch­ison­fjord – 21st July 2022

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.


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