Victory day celebrations to commemorate the Soviet Union’s victory over Nazi Germany were held not only in Russia, but also in Barentsburg. Such celebrations have traditionally been held there also in previous years, but they used to be of a civilian and cultural character.
This time, things went a different way. A large parade was held with all available and suitable vehicles – cars, snow mobiles and even a helicopter. Large flags and other Russian symbols, including ones of military character, were shown in large numbers. This is in strong contrast to previous years.
Victory day (2023) in Barentsburg: more of a military-style propaganda event
(photo: Trust Arktikugol social media).
A few weeks ago, the Norwegian news platform NRK revealed connections of the general consul in Barentsburg to the Russian military secret service GRU.
Several large companies in Longyearbyen including Hurtigruten Svalbard and Visit Svalbard have encouraged their employees not to visit Barentsburg, referring to private visits. Using local wifi is discouraged in Barentsburg because of data safety considerations, and care is advised when using mobile phone network. Both Norwegian and Russian mobile network are available in and around Barentsburg, but mobile phones may automatically connect to Russian network when Norwegian coverage is unavailable, according to Svalbardposten.
A great final day of a great voyage, regardless of the weather, which was as it often is in these latitudes: grey and windy, with occasional rain- and snow showers. We spent the morning in Nusfjord, one of the most famous little old villages in Lofoten. For good reason. It is a beautiful place.
In the afternoon, we got the one thing that we had been missing so far on this trip: real sailing. The main engine was off for the complete open water crossing from Lofoten to the mainland coast. We made 7-8 knots under sail (and, mostly, sun). Beautiful! So we reached Bodø easily on Tuesday evening, and everybody went his or her way on Wednesday.
It had been great, it had been fun! And I thank everybody who was involved. Safe journey, home or elsewhere! And for Mario and his good people on SV Meander, safe sailing and fair winds en route up to Spitsbergen! See you again soon 🙂
Classic northern Lofoten – coming through the beautiful Raftsund, Trollfjord was today’s first destination. Of course, it is one of Lofoten’s number one tourist traps these days. But still, it is a magical piece of landscape!
Later, we went south into Vestfjord – not entirely free of wind and waves – and to the lovely little island and harbour of Skrova. The mountain Skrovafjellet (Høgskrova) has one of the best views you can imagine, a 360 degree panorama of mountains, islands and sea.
Andenes – the metropolis of the Vesterålen islands. Pulsating life on the edge of the ocean.
Well, almost. A walk through Andenes on a rainy Saturday morning may not be the greatest adrenalin kick of your life. It is a calm place, on a day like this.
But of course, there are things to see and to do. Finally, I made it into the lovely little Polarmuseum, with relics of Spitsbergen legends such as Hilmar Nøis. Great!
Also the rest of the day remained grey and wet, so we decided to make some miles and get south towards Lofoten.
Usually we prefer the passage on the inside of the island of Senja because the weather and sea conditions outside tend to be pretty rough. But on a good day like this, the outer passage allows one to visit lovely little harbours such as Hamn i Senja, located on a couple of skerries just off the coast of Senja.
Later, again there was no wind to put up the sails, but the good thing was that this mean flat seas, so we went out to the edge of the continental shelf near Andenes, the famous sperm whale place. And we were lucky!
Finnkroken has been an important place for trade and traffic for thousands of years. Today, it is taken care of with love by enthusiasts for local history, and a visit there feels a little bit like a trip in a time capsule. Jo Martin and his people are amazing, they tell their stories with so much enthusiasm.
Later, we visited the modern centre of the whole area: Tromsø. In all its urban splendour.
Last night we arrived at Hamnes on the island of Utøya and went alongside there for the night and this morning. Hamnes is an old trading place, still used as such, with parts being nicely refurbished as kind of a museum. Additionally, the island has beautiful hiking opportunities. Because of the snow, this is not necessarily the best time of year for hiking, but still, it is great to be out there, work a bit in the snow and enjoy stunning views. The colours have shifted from yesterday’s bright sunny blue to all possible and impossible shades of grey, which is by no means less attractive or impressive.
We spent the afternoon rounding the impressive Lyngen Alps. Later we set sails, but the sportive aspect disappeared a bit in the background because of a sudden lack of wind … but at the same time, the sun came out again and we enjoyed life on deck 🙂
The little harbour of Bergsfjord is beautifully located with snow-covered mountains everywhere around. Very impressive and very scenic, especially on a day like this – still, the weather couldn’t be better, the snow is glittering in bright sunlight.
After a few hours sailing we reached Seglvika on the east side of Kvænangen. An energetic fraction of the group climbed up over snow-covered rocky hills to reach a little mountain top, which yielded a really stunning view over the sea and mountains, all in glorious sunshine.
From Alta to Bodø is the route for the whole trip. The first day took us from Alta to Bergsfjord, a small place in Finnmark, north Norway.
You can hardly imagine more beautiful weather than today as we started with SV Meander in Alta in north Norway. Sun and complete absence of wind made being outside a very enjoyable, almost summer-like experience, in spite of snow and temperatures close to zero. We enjoyed stunning winter landscape with snow-covered mountains all around us as we cruised out of Altafjord until we arrived at a small harbour in Bergsfjord.
The guidebook “Spitsbergen-Svalbard” is now for the first time available in an ebook-format!
Through five updated editions, the guidebook has evolved into what many professional colleagues refer to as the “Spitsbergen-bible”. But so much information on 608 pages does have some weight, which is obviously not always great when you are travelling.
No problem, because now there is an ebook version available. To start with the bad news: it is currently only available on Apple Books. This is not what I want, but there are technical reasons for this.
According to a recent scientific study, global warming in the northern Barents Sea is 5-7 times faster than the global average. Even compared to the average development in the whole Arctic, which is a hotspot within global warming, the climatic development of the northern Barents Sea area is 2-2.5 times faster.
Heavy rain and thawing temperatures over days in Longyearbyen, mid March 2022, in the middle of what should be the coldest part of the winter. Generally speaking, weather and climate should not be confused, but an increasing frequency and intensity of such events signifies a climatic trend.
Loss of sea is is identified by Isaksen and co-authors as the main driving mechanism behind this dramatic regional trend. If present, sea ice effectively minimizes heat transfer between sea and atmosphere. Lacking sea ice in an area previously covered by ice most of the year or even year round, however, enable warm (relatively warm, that is) sea water to release heat to the atmosphere.
Especially in northeastern Svalbard, sea ice was present almost year round most of the time until the recent past. The loss of sea ice in this particular area explains the especially pronounced warming in that part of the Arctic.
“Frost” was Spitsbergen’s most famous polar bear. Amongst others, she played the star role in “Queen without land” by the Norwegian photographer Asgeir Helgestad. Or, to be more precise: she did not play the star role. She was the star.
In other documentaries she was called “Misha”. She graced the covers of several ones of my own books. Over the years, I had the privilege to observe Frost a couple of times.
The polar bear Frost with her family,
in better times in Tempelfjord.
Last Friday’s events at Vindodden in Sassenfjord will now be investigated by appropriate authorities, mainly Sysselmesteren. As of now, there is no indication of criminal behaviour, as Svalbardposten reports.
It is said that Frost was marked by scientists (Norwegian Polar Institute) during the days before her dead. Marking polar bears always involves general aenesthesia dispensed with a rifle shot from a helicopter. A potential connection of the aenesthesia and Frost’s death will be part of the investigation.
Frost had a cub with her that attacked the action forces as they retrieved her body from the sea. The cub was shot. Also this part of the incident will be investigated.
During her long life, Frost and her offspring had frequent contact with people and infrastructure, some of which was harmful or even tragic. This ranges from many damaged huts to the death of Johan (“Job”) Kootte in August 2020, which was caused by one of Frost’s cubs. Several of her cubs lost their lives during these and other incidents.
Two polar bears died on Good Friday in the early morning at Vindodden in Sassenfjord. A female bear drowned and her cub was later shot.
During the night – which is not dark anymore, the midnight sun is not far away – the little bear family was seen by people near Vindodden. Vindodden is a small peninsula in Sassenfjord with a couple of huts owned and used by locals from Longyearbyen, and during spring weekends, especially the Easter weekend, it is very popular to stay in a hut.
Vindodden in Sassenfjord: two polar bears died here in the early morning on Good Friday.
The polar bears approached the huts, where people tried to scare them away with warning shots fired from signal pistols. This worked, and the polar bears moved away, swimming in the fjord.
So far, so completely normal. Polar bears are excellent swimmers and can easily cover long distances in the water.
But in this particular case, the incident soon had a tragic outcome. The female bear was soon seen dead in the water, head down, with the cub swimming around her. The Sysselmester (police) was alarmed and came by helicopter. The dead female was retrieved from the water. The cub approached, the personell tried to scare the cub away, but this time, it did not work and the cub was subsequently shot.
The case will now be investigated in details, including hearing of witnesses and postmortem examination of the bear.
For years already, there has been a discussion about a new energy supply for Longyearbyen. The old coal power plant should have been replaced years ago, preferably with a more environmentally friendly and reliable energy source. A wide range of possible solutions has been discussed over the years.
Finally, a decision is now been made. The result may surprise at a first glance, but second thoughts will reveal great wisdom, considering the solution that has, in its essence, been used by indigenous cultures for ages around the globe, something that will suit the little arctic settlement in Spitsbergen well.
The new power supply will be based on biomass. The highlight of the new system is that it will be based on a local energy source, namely reindeer droppings, just as camel muck that has been used by nomadic people in hot deserts for generations.
Longyearbyen will get a power plant based on biomass, fired with reindeer droppings.
The decision is based on considerations and calculations that were made possible by the local reindeer population census of 2019, which yielded a total number of more than 22,000 animals. The reindeer don’t do anything else than turning tundra vegetation into precious fuel – and they produce more than enough to guarantee a sufficient supply of energy. Additionally, the droppings dry quickly in the arid high-arctic climate.
Technology to automatically collect the droppings on the tundra is currently being developed, based on automatic vacuum cleaners.
Words of almost refreshing honesty: According to the Norwegian news website NRK, the Norwegian government aims at making Longyearbyen’s population smaller and more Norwegian.
Longyearbyen (here on 17th May, the Norwegian national day) is a very Norwegian settlement, regardless of the international parts of its population. Nobody is questioning that – with the possible exception of the Norwegian government itself, which aims at reducing the population and increasing the Norwegian part of it. To achieve this goal, Oslo politicians don’t seem to have any inhibition to discriminate directly against foreigners, for example by dispossessing them of their local voting rights.
“The population of the archipelago is too high and it should not grow any further. The population needs a higher proportion of Norwegian citizens”, this is how NRK quotes the government, namely undersecretary of sate John-Erik Vika (Senterpartiet/Centre Party) in the ministry of justice, which is responsible for large parts of Norway’s Svalbard politics.
Longyearbyen locals with citizenship other than Norwgian have experienced Norwegian Svalbard and Longyearbyen policy – the part that is made in Oslo, to be more precise – in part as discriminating. A prominent example is last year’s decision to dispossess most foreigners of their local voting rights.