Tromsø, the metropolis of northern Norway, with her lanes and the harbour, an invitation for a lovely little stroll. The museums are a great mental warm-up for the Arctic, and the mountain Fløyen offers a sportive exercise which is nice before we start the crossing of the Barents Sea, up to Bear Island and Spitsbergen. It is a bit cold and cloudy, just right to set the mind for the Arctic!
We are passing Stokmarknes on the way north and we make a little stop there. This is where the famous Hurtigruten was invented, the coastal steamer line that connected north Norway to the rest of the country and thus to the world. They have dedicated a museum to the Hurtigruten in Stokmarknes. And if you come with a ship, then you are welcomed by a whole Hurtigruten ship on the shore!
They are currently doing a lot of work on the museum, but it is already definitely well worth a visit.
Gallery – Stokmarknes & Whalewatching – 22nd May, 2017
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
And so is the continental shelf edge off the outer coast. That area is famous for whales, and we manage indeed to find a group of pilot whales after a while.
Not having the northern lights at this time of year does have advantages – you can get some hours of sleep before starting to hike from Kabelvåg to Svolvær. It seems to have been a long winter here in Lofoten, just as in Spitsbergen further north. There is still a lot of snow in the terrain, it is wet, and lakes are still largely frozen.
The white beaches on Skrova bring a strong contrast to that, having a tropical appearance. And sailing northwards in Vestfjord gives us later the feeling of being somewhere in the Carribean. A good life under a wide, open sky!
Gallery – From Kabelvåg to Trollfjord – 21st May, 2017
We went alongside in Reine in the earliest morning hours. Not that I took much notice, initially. I was not far away, physically. But you have to get a little bit of sleep at some stage. Even though it is not yet midnight sun time here. Oficially, the sun is still going down for 3 hours or so. But there is no darkness, of course.
It is a bit overcast, but calm and dry, so we take the Zodiacs to cruise deep into Reinefjord for a good hike. We follow a shallow bay and climb up a ridge that separates the inner branches of Reinefjord from the outer coast. There, we have one of these wide, white sand beaches that the outer side of the Lofoten islands is famous for. Beautiful! If it was just 20 degrees warmer, we could spend a lazy day on the beach … but it is quite fresh, and we are happy about that. We rather enjoy the views of the steep granite walls around the bay. Stunning scenery! A high-alpine mountain chain at sea level.
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
A visit to the lovely little old fishing village of Nusfjord in the afternoon makes the day complete, before we set course for Kabelvåg for a calm night alongside in the harbour.
Here we go! Today we start the arctic summer season. Boarding SV Antigua in Bodø, we set course northwards, final destination Spitsbergen, stopping in Lofoten and Bear Island on the way. Yes, let’s get going! Arctic, we are coming! 🙂
As we get going reasonably quickly, we don’t want to miss the opportunity to cruise in the famous Saltstraumen with its impressive tidal currents.
On April 27, a guided group broke through the ice in Tempelfjord (see spitsbergen-svalbard.com news from April). Four persons spent up to 48 minutes in ice cold water until they were rescued by SAR forces with helicopters. Most victims could soon be released from treatment. One guide, however, was was kept in intensive care in the University Hospital Nordnorge in Tromsø (UNN).
The hospital informed the public today that the man died during the night from Sunday to Monday.
He was a Russian citizen, between 30 and 40 years old.
As far as is known, he was the first guide who died due to an accident that happened during a tour with guests in Svalbard.
The accident is still investigated by Norwegian authorities. So far, no further details have been released beyond those described in the article in April.
Tempelfjord with poor ice conditions in spring 2014.
Most trips in Spitsbergen 2017 are largely fully booked, as are our trips to Antarctica and Patagonian in 2018. The following tickets are currently still available:
(Please note: all of the trips are German speaking. For this reason, the links lead to detailed descriptions of the trips in German.)
Update from Friday: one person, the guide, is still critically unstable and under advanced intensive care in Tromsø. It was said today that it was four persons who actually ended up in the water. Some of the group have already returned to Russia via Norway.
Updates from Saturday are in the text, highlighted with bold formatting.
In the late afternoon today (April 27), a group of snow mobile tourists broke through the ice in Tempelfjord. The alarm went close to 18:00. To start with the most important bit of information: all persons seem to be in safety by now, there are reports about three persons being seriously injured. The status of two is described as critical.
It was a group of nine persons including one guide, all of Russian nationality, that broke through the ice in Tempelfjord between Kapp Murdoch and Kapp Schoultz. Shortly after the emergency call, Norwegian SAR forces were on location with helicopters and a coast guard ship and started to rescue persons out of the water. Several persons are now in the hospital in Longyearbyen, planes started from Tromsø with additional medical personnel and equipment and to possibly evacuate patients to the mainland. Update: one is still in critical condition. It is one of the guides, who was in the cold water for almost an hour. He got a cardiac arrest while he was lifted out of the water.
Three persons were reported missing, but it seems that they were quickly rescued by another group, taken to Fredheim, a hut on the southern side of Tempelfjord, and taken care of there.
The group included about 24 persons in total, with several guides, but 11 did not get involved in the actual accident. The group was on the way from Pyramiden to Longyearbyen, as part of a several day long trip organized by Arctic Travel Company Grumant, a Russian tour operator in Barentsburg. The part of the group not directly involved returned to Pyramiden.
Details about the accident are not yet available. The ice in Tempelfjord has become increasingly unreliable in recent years, to the degree that it was more or less absent in some years. In the last couple of weeks, however, it was traversed frequently. Update: the ice was recently crossed by private persons, but major tour operators from Longyearbyen did not cross the ice in Tempelfjord during their tours, or only near the shore. The thickness of the ice in central parts was less than required by common safety routines.
Near Kapp Murdoch, there is a permanent local zone of weakness in the ice. This weak spot, which is locally well known and called Murdoch-råka, had led to accidents before. It is not yet known if this was the site of today’s accident or if it happened somewhere else. Update: the accident did not happen at the Murdoch-råka, but somewhere on a more or less straight line from Kapp Murdoch to Fredheim, closer to the southern side of the fjord, so the Murdoch-hole was definitely not involved.
Tempelfjord with poor ice conditions in April 2014.
In a bunker in Longyearbyen digital data will be stored and saved over generations, a project called Arctic World Archive. We already reported about the Global Seed Vault on this webside: Seeds from all over the world are stored in high shelves, to save genetic material for the following human generations.
Now a huge data storage follows. The Arctic World Archive was built close to the Global Seed Vault by the Norwegian technology provider Piql and the mining company Store Norske. The data can be stored safely with a special technique on light-sensitive film for up to one thousand years. The former mine will have a constant temperature of -5 to -10 degrees Celsius.
The bunker will be connected to the internet so that companies who want to store their data can access to it. Potential customers could be governments and large companies. The national archives of Brazil and Mexico have already shown interest and, of course, Norway itself. The first data of the district government of Sogn og Fjordane were stored in the former mine on 27 March at a depth of 300 meters.
Global Seed Vault – Seeds for generations. The data bunker looks similar.
The next part of a polar voyage around the world: after the Antarctic Odysssey into the Ross Sea, a couple of more or less quick flights took me up from the southernmost regular airport in the world in Ushuaia to the northernmost regular airport in the world in Longyearbyen – back home! 🙂 for a couple of weeks, it’s now snow mobiles rather than Zodiacs and reindeer instead of penguins.
They wanted to reach the North Pole in Fridtjof Nansen’s footprints, but their expedition ended temporarily on Spitsbergen. The French adventurer Gilles Elkaim and his wife Alexia started their expedition last year in summer in Kirkenes with his sailing vessel Arktika (not to be confused with the local boat Artika II from Longyearbyen). A visit of Spitsbergen was actually not planned before 2018 – on the way back. Gilles Elkaim and Alexia Elkaim actually wanted to winter in the ice north of the New Siberian Islands, to continue the journey to the North Pole with dog sleds.
Bad weather and a damaged engine
Rough weather conditions and a damaged engine forced them in October last year to look for protection in the Duvefjord. The Duvefjord is strictly protected and a permit is required in advance for all travels there.
Gilles Elkaim on his boat Arktika – Image: Gilles Elkaim, published with kind permission
Spitsbergen’s governor -called Sysselmannen- said that she was only informed by reference to Elkaim’s travel blog about the stay of the Arktika in the Duvefjord. According to his own statement Elkaim had informed the authorities on Spitsbergen in time on October 8th 2016, but did not receive any reaction. On October 19th, the Arktika was towed to Longyearbyen by Spitsbergen’s authorities.
Since Elkaim did not want to pay a fine of 25,000 crowns, he ended up in front of the court. The Norwegian authorities even confiscated the passports of Elkaim and his wife so that they could not leave Spitsbergen. Elkaim has now been sentenced to 30,000 crowns (around 3,300 €) by the regional court Nord-Troms.
Word agains word
According to court the adventurer has violated several laws. The Arktika anchored several times between strictly protected islands between the 24th of August and the 19th of October. Elkaim had imported dogs without permission and did also not properly register their journey.
Elkaim, on the other hand, sees himself as a victim of Norwegian bureaucracy and complains that he has not been adequately listened to in the trial. He refers to the UN Convention on the Law of the Sea, according to which ships of all countries have the right to cross sea areas of other countries. The Convention also says that ships may be anchored in exceptional occurrences. In fact, the UN Convention on the Law of the Sea and Norwegian environmental protection laws are partly contradictory.
Elkaim does not accept the verdict and wants to appeal. He also complains that the nature reserve is extremely polluted with rubbish. He told the Norwegian state channel NRK on the phone: “I’m not a criminal. What is a crime about going ashore and collect garbage in an area that Norwegian authorities should have cleaned? What is the meaning of a nature reserve where the polar bear feeds from plastic?”
Plastic waste: Unfortunately no exception on Spitsbergen – Image: Gilles Elkaim, published with kind permission
Elkaim wants to stay in the Russian settlement Barentsburg until summer, where he was kindly accepted as he said. Then he want to travel further towards the North Pole. Hopefully without any engine damage.
The enormous air pollution in major Chinese cities could be related to arctic melting sea ice. This surprising link between global warming and air pollution is the result of a study, that has now been published in Science Advances.
Air pollution is nothing new in China’s big cities. However, the haze was particularly bad in January 2013, where the limit values were exceeded in almost all major Chinese cities for four weeks.
Melting sea ice in the Arctic and persistent snowfall over Siberia led to a change in air circulation at the end of 2012. The cold air masses moved towards east to Korea and Japan, while in eastern China the air was not moving at all. In Winter there are usually strong winds in regions such as Beijing.
The scientists are sure that melting ice and heavy snowfall have at least intensified the haze. They suspect that similar events will happen in the future and that the Olympic Winter Games in 2022 could also be affected.
In the middle of February she shows herself for the first time after the long polarnight. But first on March 8th her rays reach Longyearbyen, which is surrounded by mountains. The return of the sun is celebrated by the inhabitants of Spitsbergen one week with open-air services, exhibitions and concerts. Even the avalanche warning, which is still valid, can not cast a shadow on this event.
Waiting for the sun…
Many popular Norwegian musicians are coming to Longyearbyen in these days. The Elektropo Duo Bow To Each Other, the Rapper OnklP Og De Fjerne Slektningene (“Uncle P and the remote relatives”) and the most northern blues band of the world, the Advent Bay Poolboys.
The highlight of the week happens on the 8th of March, when everybody shows up in front of the old hospital to welcome the sun together. Children have their necks decorated with a yellow felt sun. When the sun throws its rays onto the stair steps of the building for the first time, she will be traditionally greeted with cheers and singing and her return will be officially declared.
A new avalanche has descended at Hiorthfjellet on the north side of the Adventdalen, opposite Longyearbyen. No one was harmed. Security forces have investigated the site and found no damage or trapped persons.
Hiorthfjellet in summer (Image: By Bjoertvedt, Wikimedia Commons)
The evacuation of most of the households in Longyearbyen has now been partly canceled. However, numerous houses in Route 222, 226 and 28 still remain closed to the residents. They were able to get personal items from their homes yesterday during the day. The avalanche warning still exists.
92 households in Longyearbyen are currently being evacuated because further avalanches are feared. The avalanche, which yesterday damaged two houses in way 228, was obviously underestimated by the authorities in advance. During the night at least one more avalanche has come down on Gruve 7 way, but luckily without doing any damage.
On the basis of an unclear situation, the avalanche warning was now raised to the highest level 4. 92 households in Longyearbyen are being evacuated, but also a more extensive evacuation is considered, and maybe the sports hall has to be used as an emergency shelter. Two houses with six households were yesterday strongly damaged by avalanches. There was an avalanche warning, but it did not affect any buildings.
However, a lot of people in Longyearbyen don’t trust the avalanche warning system anymore. Last year two people were killed in an avalanche accident in their homes, which still awakens some bad memories.