I suppose that many readers of this website will have been to Spitsbergen, and some may even have been at Snatcherpynten in Recherchefjord. This bay is part of Bellsund, a very beautiful and interesting fjord system in Spitsbergen. Amongst others, there are remains of hundreds of years of arctic history hidden in the arctic landscape.
Giævervilla at Snatcherpynten is an old house that has a history which is a bit special. If you have been there – great. But the good news is: if you have not been there, it doesn’t matter anymore, because now there is a whole new page dedicated to Giæverhuset. There are panorama images, a photo gallery and of course the page tells the story of the place. Enjoy!
It may not exactly fit into the atmosphere of the Christmas days … but nevertheless, there is some good news here, some kind of gospel, if you want it that way 🙂
It is a common question: who is the sewage water treated in Longyearbyen? And it does usually raise an eyebrow when the answer is: not at all. And this is how it had been for more than a century, until November 2022. All sewage water went straight into the fjord without any treatment at all.
But now it is December 2022, and things have changed to the better.
Adventfjord next to Longyearbyen:
there are definitely places in this area where I wouldn’t go swimming.
A mechanical sewage water treatment was put into operation on 01 December. The result of the first week of operation was impressive: 50 kg of garbage were removed from the sewage water before it went into Adventfjord, according to a notification by Longyearbyen Lokalstyre. A selection of hygiene articles as one might suspect. All the stuff that doesn’t belong into the toilet, as everybody (?) knows, but that nevertheless obviously far too often ends up there. Which is a phenomenon in itself, but that is not the subject here.
At least, now there is improvement and a lot of that shit (sorry) will not end up in the sea anymore from now on.
Earlier this year, the Norwegian government finally took the controversial decision to dispossess Longyearbyen’s inhabitants who don’t have Norwegian passports off the local voting rights, except a very few who have spent at least three years as registered inhabitants of a mainland community. click here for more details of the history of the whole thing.
By now, some of the consequences of this drastic decision are becoming more clear, although the first local elections under the new legislation will not be before the fall of 2023. Then, about 700 former voters will not be able to take part in the elections, according to NRK. This concerns both voters and candidates, such as Olivia Ericson from Sweden, who will not be able to line up again in 2023.
Longyearbyen Lokalstyre: about to thin out in 2023.
Longyearbyen has something near 2500 inhabitants. This is the total number, including many who are not yet of full age anyway or who have not yet lived in Longyearbyen for three years, which has always been a requirement to vote. The actual number of voters is accordingly lower. 700 voters who lose their voting rights accordingly represent something near one third. Future local councils will thus lose a lot of democratic legitimation. It is also feared that many will feel as second class citizens and hence reduce their commitment to local matters.
Another consequence is that smaller parties may not be able to line up anymore for elections in the future. Parties must have at least seven candidates to take part in elections, and smaller parties have always struggled to meet this requirement in a small place such as Longyearbyen. The local Green party MDG (Miljøpartiet De Grønne) has now announced to not line up anymore for the 2023 elections. In 2019, three of their candidates were foreigners, including Olivia Ericson from Sweden. Ericson and other people are shocked and frustrated to be deprived of their democratic rights. There may be more parties who will drop out for the same reason, for example Fremskrittspartiet (FrP).
Several current members of the local council, including current mayor (lokalstyreleder) Arild Olsen, have announced that they will quit in 2023 because of the new legal situation, according to NRK.
The recent driving license issue caused considerable unsettledness especially in Longyearbyen’s Thai community. By coincidence, it was found out that driving licenses from countries such as Thailand do not meet certain formal criteria and hence are not valid in Norway including Svalbard. This has caused difficulties for a number of people, especially from Thailand, who live in Longyearbyen. There are many who need to drive a car also within their jobs.
Road traffic in Spitsbergen.
Norwegian authorities have now established at least a temporary solution, according to a notice by the Sysselmesters: driving licenses from countries that have ratified the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic will be accepted until 31st December 2023. Until then, a permanent solution needs to be found. There is some small print connected to this solution, but it is assumed that it will apply to most, if not all, of those who currently have a problem with their driving license.
Polar foxes (also known as “arctic fox”) moult twice a year, with a change from the thicker winter fur to the thinner summer fur in spring and back again in autumn. Both kinds of polar foxes do that: the white fox with the prominent change from white winter fur to brown summer fur and back, and the blue fox which is – no, not blue, but brown throughout the year.
Next to thermal isolation, camouflage can be an important function of the fur, at least for the white fox, and this requires a synchronised timing of the moulting and the snow melting/fresh snow periods.
Polar fox, fur version 1: Blue fox.
So far, scientists assumed that the timing of the moulting period is largely controlled by the length of daylight. This could be problematic if the timing of the snow melt/fresh snow period gets decoupled from certain customary daylight length values. This might result in animals still having white winter fur on brown tundra when the snow melt is through, earlier than in previous times, and this again would involve a loss of camouflage: the animal has a higher risk of falling victim to a predator or possibly to reduced hunting success if it itself is a predator, such as the polar fox.
Polar fox, fur version 2: white fox in summer coat.
But recent scientific data indicate that the timing of the fur change may be coupled to temperature and snow cover development rather than to the length of daylight, as biologist Lucie Laporte-Devylder and co-authors from NINA (Norwegian institute for nature research) write in a scientific publication Laporte-Devylder used photos taken over years by automatic cameras and correlated them with meteorological and snow cover data. The result indicates that temperature and snow cover are a significant factor for the timing of the fur change of polar foxes. This might mean that polar foxes are better able to adjust to climate-change-induced changes the snow cover then previously believed.
Polar fox, fur version 3: white fox in winter coat.
The data are from the Snøhetta area on the Norwegian mainland. The results may, however, not be fully applicable to the polar fox population in Svalbard. On the mainland, polar foxes with bad camouflage run a higher risk of predation by sea eagles, but there are no eagles or other large birds of prey in Svalbard.
There, however, polar foxes have an entirely different problem with their fur: lice are currently becoming more and more common in Svalbard. So far, nobody can tell where they are coming from and what the consequences will be for the affected foxes.
It should be a matter of course, but it isn’t at at time when the Russian war of aggression still rages in the Ukraine: despite of all distrust between Russia and the western world on various levels, athlets from Longyearbyen went to Barentsburg on Sunday to meet the local athletes there for a sport competition. The sportspeople from Longyearbyen got transport to Barentsburg with the governor’s ship Polarsyssel and got a friendly welcome in Barentsburg, before they engaged in competitions within badminton, table tennis, chess, floorball, volleyball and football.
Football match in Barentsburg (archive image, 2019).
If you are interested in the results, you can find them in more detail in Svalbardposten but the bottomline adds an additional surprise to the whole thing: the athlets from Longyearbyen won all competitions.
But the most important thing is obviously that people from both sides met in a peaceful and even friendly way, rounding the event off with a banquet.
International politics touching Svalbard remain heavily affected by the difficult relationship to Russia. Currently, a Russian application filed by the Russian embassy in Oslo on behalf of the Intitute for marine biology in Murmansk is causing some discussion amongst Norwegian security experts and politicians. The Murmansk institute wants to carry out a research voyage with the vessel Dalnie Zelentsy from 15 December 2022 to 10 January 2023, with a major proportion of the time spent in Svalbard waters.
Russian ships were often charted by western companies and institutions during better years in the past. Here we see MV Professor Molchanov in Adventfjord – in 2013, years after she was released from charter contracts with western expedition cruise companies
(archive image, illustration only).
Experts have told the Norwegian news website NRK that it would be naive to assume that real science would be the only purpose of the trip. Officially, the voyage is meant to gather water and bottom samples in Svalbard waters and the Barents Sea and experts don’t doubt that this kind of research will actually be carried out – but not as the only mission of the Dalnie Zelentsy. Security politics experts say that the institute for marine biology in Murmansk has strong connections to the Russian navy, including a programme to train whales and seals for military purposes. They say that the insitute is “not an innocent scientific player, but a civilian institution with a strong military aspect”, and one would have to expect the scheduled Svalbard cruise to include a non-scientific component. This might be anywhere within sabotage and spying or transport of military goods and personell, for example to Barentsburg, which the vessel is scheduled to visit during the cruise. This could be done together with a scientific programme which in itself indeed might be harmless. In earlier years, the Dalnie Zelentsy was also used by western scientists, for example from UNIS, for research in Svalbard.
Also other Russian “scientific” vessels have recently been seen near important Norwegian infrastructure, for example of the oil and gas industry, and experts expect the information gathered by them to be political rather than scientific, at least in part. Another purpose of these activities may be to keep Norwegian authorities such as the coastguard busy to wear them out over time.
As a conclusion, the experts demand the rejection of the application from Norwegian politicians, which is said to be legally possible withe the 12 mile zone of Svalbard but more difficult outside.
One thing is for sure: Longyearbyen needs a new energy system. The old coal power plant is, well, exactly that: a) old and b) a coal power plant. On Wednesday, an administrative board within the community administration of Longyearbyen confirmed an earlier decision of the community council (Longyearbyen Lokalstyre) to run Longyearbyen’s energy supply without coal from late 2023.
But anyone who expects a modern, climate-neutral energy supply is in for a disappointment: to start with, energy will be supplied by a diesel-based power station, which will be an upgraded version of today’s standby power plant. A climate-neutral solution is, however, who Longyearbyen wants and needs on the long term: greenhouse gas emissions are to be reduced by 70-80 % until 2030. The plan is to achieve this with a mix of technologies likely to include photovoltaics, wind and battery-based energy storage solutions.
The coal power station in Longyearbyen. The discussion about a new solution is almost as old as the power plant itself.
But climate protection is not the reason for the move from coal to diesel. According to Svalbardposten, security of supply is one main reason. Power cuts are a rather well-known phenomenon in Longyearbyen. The latest one was just two days ago on Wednesday in the late afternoon. It lasted, with a bit of on and off, for 1.5 hours. Additionally it is said that the further operation of the coal power plant would require increasing maintainance and financial efforts, and the working conditions for the staff are not up to date.
Based on the expected development of energy prices, however, the change to diesel is expected to bring an increase of something near 14 % to consumers in Longyearbyen. It does not surprise that Wednesday’s confirmation of the decision was met with a loud debate in local social media groups in Longyearbyen. There are many who are proud of Longyearbyen’s coal mining history and many doubt that imported diesel, bought on potentially turbulent world markets, is a better solution than local coal.
Western countries have reduced their connections to Russia to a minimum, but there are still a few open channels in use and both sides are still able to make agreements that many will think of as surprising: Norway and Russia have sealed an agreement on fishery quotas for the Barents Sea and the Norwegian Sea, at the Barentsobserver reports.
Russian fishing vessel in the Barents Sea.
The Norwegian-Russian Joint Fishery Commission has been in existence since 1976. It sets overall quotas for economically important species such as cod, haddock, capelin and halibut and it defines the share that the fishing fleets of the two countries get. The individual share is usually near 50 % of the total quota.
The quota for cod was reduced now for two times in a row by 20 %.
Norway and Russia also agreed to continue their cooperation within the scientific monitoring of fish stocks and related administration.
As a consequence of Russia’s war against the Ukraine, Norway has closed most ports for Russian fishing vessels. Only Tromso, Båtsfjord and Kirkenes remain accessible for Russian ships, which are regularly subject to minute controls in these ports. Russia has announced to terminate the cooperation with Norway in case the government in Oslo decides on further restrictions. On the other side, Norwegian fishermen complain about frequent closings of large areas in the Russian sector of these waters due to military exercises. This often happens on short notice, which troubles the fishiung fleet.
Russia’s hybrid war against the west has started to hit Norway, including the country’s arctic islands of Svalbard. Drones of unknown origin have in recent weeks been seen flying near important infrastructure including technology of the oil and gas industry. In some cases, this has included drones flying several thousand metres high, well beyond the range of small consumer-type drones that are used for example by amateur photographers. Today (Tuesday, 25 October) a man was arrested in Tromsø, as NRK reported. The man is suspected of espionage under false identity for a Russian intelligence service.
Drones can be used for a wide range of purposes, from innocent photography through scientific work, SAR and police operations up to espionage, military operations and bomb terror. The photo shows a public demonstration of drones used by the Sysselmester of Svalbard for adminstrative purposes and SAR and police operations.
Another man was arrested because of illegal drone flights in Svalbard. According to Barentsobserver, the man has connections to Putin’s environment. He is suspected of having made illegal drone photos that are currently under police investigation. There are several no fly zones in Svalbard, such as the 5 km safety zones surrounding the airports. Additionally, Norway does not allow Russian citizens to fly drones anywhere in Norwegian airspace as a reaction to the Russian war in the Ukraine. A lawyer of the suspected man has indicated to possibly challenge this ban because of the Svalbard Treaty’s requirement of equal treatment, but if such a move would be successful in court is an open question at best.
Such Russian activities are likely intended to create feelings of uncertainty, confusion and fear in other countries.
Norwegian coal mining in mine 7 in Adventdalen near Longyearbyen will be continued until 2025, as the mining company Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani (SNSK) explained in a press release. The reason is the changed geopolitical situation and its implications for global energy markets.
Mine 7 is located on a mountain in Adventdalen.
Earlier, 2023 was set as the last year of Norwegian coal mining in Spitsbergen. One main reason to maintain coal production is, so far, the supply for the local coal power plant, but the community of Longyearbyen aims at finding a new power solution and has not renewed the contract with the mining company beyond 2023.
But the demand for coal on the international markets is high and so are the prices. Hence, SNSK could secure good contracts until 2025. For many years, the Clariant group has been the main customer for Norwegian coal from Spitsbergen, and will remain so until 2025.
In 2021 – before the Russian war against the Ukraine started, SNSK increased its turnover to 93 million Norwegian kroner, compared to 48 million kroner in 2020 – without changes of the annual production.
There are currently between 40 and 45 people working in mine 7. SNSK plans to increase the number of employees in mine 7 to 52, with an annual production of 125,000 tons.
The local tourism association Svalbard Reiselivsråd has excluded Trust Arcticugol from its members. This was decided today (12 October) during a board meeting.
Trust Arcticugol is a company owned by the Russian state. The Trust owns and runs Barentsburg and all activities there, including tourism.
Trust Arcticugol, here in Pyramiden: excluded from Svalbard Reiselivsråd and Visit Svalbard.
One consequence is that the offerings of Goarctica, the Trust’s daughter company for tourims, are not available anymore on Visit Svalbard, an important booking platform for local tour operators.
The reason is the Russian war of aggression in and against the Ukraine. Chairman Ronny Strømnes pointed out that it was not possible anymore to remain passive, considering the Russian invasion and severe violations of public international law and human rights. Strømnes emphasized that today’s decision is directed against the Russian government and not against the people in Barentsburg. He expressed hope that the future development will make normal relationships possible again, including a renewed membership of Trust Arcticugol in Svalbard Reiselivsråd.
Goarctica, the Trust’s tourism branch, published a video on social media showing how the lights are being turned off in various locations in Barentsburg.
One could almost laugh if it wasn’t actually so serious and sad, and with such a dramatic geopolitical background: there is, on one side, a small country that more or less regularly sends a coastguard or navy ship to remote parts of its waters to show presence and to patrol these waters.
And on the other hand, there is a huge country in the neighbourhood, that has been provoking the whole region and many countries beyond that with tools within military and other areas, including internet trolls, cyber attacks and so on and so forth, up to sabotage of public infrastructure.
The big country obviously thinks it has all the right of the world to do all this, or they just pretend it must have been someone else.
At the same time, the same big country claims that the navy presence of the small country is an inacceptable provokation and a breach of important international treaties.
This is, of course, a very much simplified and, to some degree, polemic summary of the current events. But just the fact that it seems safe to assume that all readers will know which countries this is about is tale-telling.
Norwegian coastguard ship in Svalbard waters.
So, what happened now? Recently, Russia accused Norway once again to have breached the Spitsbergen Treaty (often referred to as the Svalbard Treaty) with their military presence in Svalbard. It is the regular presence of Norwegian coastguard ships and occasionaly a frigate in Svalbard waters that allegedly irritates Russia. With this background, it would be an idea to have a look at what the above-mentioned treaty acctually says, but on the other hand, who in Moscow cares about what is actually written in a treaty? But just in case someone elsewhere is interested, this is the relevant Article 9 of the treaty: “… Norway undertakes not to create nor to allow the establishment of any naval base in the territories specified in Article 1 and not to construct any fortification in the said territories, which may never be used for warlike purposes”.
That is actually pretty clear and straightforward. And so are any conclusions one might draw from the text. Norway doesn’t do anything that is in conflict with arcticle 9. Full stop. End of this part of the story. The rest is just provokation.
Another story is that of the deep sea cables. This is, if at all, then only at a very quick, first, superficial glance independent from the first story. There are cables that connect Longyearbyen to mainland Norway, to provide fast and reliable – that is the idea, at least – communication for everything from phonecalls and everyday internet use to satellite data from SvalSat, the satellite antenna field near Longyearbyen which is of great importance for many international users including organisations such as ESA and NASA and others. One of these cables – there are two, for safety reasons – was damaged in January (click here to read more about that). Soon it was established that the damage was done by humans and not by natural processes.
Recently, the movements of a certain Russian fish trawler were debated in media such as NRK. A ship known by the name Melkart-5 crossed the position above the cables in the area of the damage more than 100 times within a few days. Beyond that, there is an impressive list of movements of this ship and its tender near places such as Norwegian oil and gas fields, pipelines and a bridge near Kirkenes that is regularly used during Norwegian military exercises. In addition, there are long periods, where no signal of the ship’s AIS was received anywhere at all.
Russian fishing vessels handing over cargo in Svalbard waters.
These are the facts. Anything beyond this is speculation, considering current public knowledge.
Norwegian authorities including the Sysselmester of Svalbard have expressed regret that legislation to protect sea floor infrastructure dates back to the stone age of these installations and does not provide useful legal tools today.
The brand new Spitsbergen double calender 2023 is available! “Double calendar” means that the 12 calender sheets are used on both sides, and additionally to the twelve beautiful Spitsbergen photos you get another twelve calender pages which are dedicated to Bear Island an Jan Mayen (six sheets for each one of them). As always, my new Spitsbergen double calender has a completely new selection of photographs and it comes in two sizes, A3 (larger) and A5 (smaller). Click here for further information and ordering.
P.S. save money by buying several copies: if you order two or more, then the price per copy is lower. Christmas is on the way, and there is always someone’s birthday coming up 🙂
As if an animal such as a polar bear could be a criminal. But there are those in Longyearbyen who say that Frost is a criminal polar bear.
According to polar bear scientist Jon Aars, “Frost” is a female polar bear, age almost 17 years, captured and marked by the Norwegian Polar Institute for the first time in 2009 in Wijdefjord and known to scientists as N23992. In later years, Frost got cubs a number of times: twins in 2011, 2012 and 2013 – the rapid series indicated that she must have lost her offspring at least the first two times – and again twins in 2015 and 2017 and a single female cub both in 2020 and 2022. Frost is a well-known polar bear for scientists, who have caught and marked her repeatedly.
Polar bear and hut in Adventfjord.
It is not known if this polar bear actually is Frost.
Unfortunately, Frost and her siblings have many times had contact to settlements, huts and humans, sometimes with tragic consequences. In 2014, one of her twins from 2013 died in Billefjord under circumstances not fully revealed but in close temporal connection to a scientific anaesthetization. The other one of these two unfortunate twins was shot after it had been in a camp in Tempelfjord in 2015, where one person received minor injuries. The sad climax was, however, reached when one of Frost’s descendants killed camping place manager Johan Jacobus „Job“ Kootte in his tent on the camping place in Longyearbyen on 28 August, 2020. The polar bear was shot.
Frost got her popular name in the documentary “Queen without land” made by the Norwegian film maker Asgeir Helgestad.
Polar bear family in Billefjord, September 2021.
It is unlikely that this is frost, because she got a single cub in 2020.
Frost appears to spend most of her time in Isfjord, with occasional visits to inner Wijdefjord. She has appeared many times in the vicinity of the settlements, Longyearbyen and Pyramiden, and occasionally probably also within them. And she seems to have got used to breaking into huts and trashing them in search for food, as happened recently to the hut of Greendog, a commercial dogyard in Adventdalen near Longyearbyen. The Sysselmester (government representative/police) usually tries to scare polar bears away with flare guns, helicopters of snow mobiles. If this doesn’t work, anaesthetization and a flight to a remote place within Svalbard are amongst the remaining options. But this has already been done with Frost, only to see her coming back a while later. More robust, but non-lethal deterring methods such as rubber bullets or pepper spray or a “polar bear prison” as in Churchill, where bears are kept for a while with only water and no food to teach them that getting too close to settlements and humans is not a good thing, are apparently not in the arsenal of Norwegian authorities.
Which means that a deadly rifle shot soon comes into consideration. This was now proposed for Frost by Longyearbyen’s mayor, Arild Olsen, who said that Frost has become a danger to the public. But such a decision can not be made by Longyearbyen’s mayor. Only the Sysselmester, currently Lars Fause, has the power to decide on this. Fause, however, said that the law does not permit the preventive shooting of a bear. Instead, it allows this final step only in case of danger to human life; in exceptional cases also to protect major material values.
But Fause said he already made up is mind what to do when a polar bear comes close to, for example, the way to school of Longyearbyen’s children.