The new photo book “Spitsbergen – cold beauty” has 227 images that take you on a comprehensive journey around Spitsbergen, both geographically, seasonally and regarding wildlife and a bit of history here and there.
I took the photos over a period of almost 20 years, on uncounted tours and journey from 2005 (when I had just bought my first digital camera) to 2023. For me, many of them are connected to unforgettable memories, and the decision for every single one came together with individual decisions against 1000 other images that might just as well have been in the book now.
In the book, the photos can and do speak for themselves. There is no long text to distract the eye. My own thoughts, stories and memories don’t matter there. But I would nevertheless like to share some of them. The place to do so is here. It might turn out to be a little series over time if you like. We’ll see what happens.
The first image: northern light
In the Arctic, the year begins in the middle of the polar night. Hence, so does the photo book. And how to illustrate the beauty of the polar night better than with a northern light?
A northern light photo was thus also the opener of the first version of the book in 2011. I remember how proud I was of my very northern light photos! But alas, I lacked all requirements for proper northern light photography. I dare to say that this resulted in a rapid development as far as I am concerned and things did improve. But the 2011 version of the book was printed, and every time I took a copy of that early edition up and saw that photo, I was kind of put off and I thought “that should be better”. Well, now it is. Over the years since then, I have spent countless cold evenings equipped with warm clothes, full frame camera, high quality prime lense and tripod in Adventdalen, where I took the photo of my final choice in 2019.
The first photo in my new photo book Spitsbergen: Cold beauty: northern light.
If you look at different polar light photos, on the internet, in books or magazines, they are often very bright and extremely colourful. There may be the odd exception, but in by far most cases this is a matter of exaggerated twisting knobs and buttons during image processing. It is important to resist this temptation, these results are not realistic.
That one northern light photo in the old 2011 edition would have been reason enough for a new edition of the book. Well, here it is, and this time I am happy with it 🙂.
The first sunlight
The return of the sun without several months of sunlight is always a very special event, anywhere in the Arctic. In Longyearbyen, which is surrounded by mountains, this does not happen before 08 March. If you have a free view to the south, you can enjoy that delightful view considerably earlier. In Farmhamna, a trapper station on the west coast of Spitsbergen, we could celebrate the return of the sun as early as 20 February during my time there in 2022, and this is when I took this photo.
First sunlight in Farmhamna, 20 February 2022.
My time in Farmhamna will forever be amongst my treasured memories. There are several more photos from Farmhamna and surroundings that have made it into the new Spitsbergen photo book.
The Langeøya panorama is the page of the week. Langeøya is a small island in the southern part of Hinlopen Strait. The page as such has existed for a while, but now I have added some more information and picture. If you read German, then I recommend to have a look at the German version of the page which includes a quotation from Carl Koldewey, an explorer who visited Langeøya in 1868.
Thursday was the longest day in the northern hemisphere. This time it was the 20th of June and not the 21st because 2024 is a leap year. It varies anyway, in “normal” years it is sometimes also the 22nd or the 23rd of June, depending on the details of the Earth’s orbit around the sun. Anyway – 24th of June is Sankt Hans, and the night before is Sankthansaften (St. Hans’s evening), an event duly celebrated with huge bonfires and a drink or two.
Common eider duck on her nest at the dogyard in Adventdalen.
Now the summer is here in full bloom. Common eider ducks and geese are busy breeding in their colonies in large numbers, and you can see the first chicks making their first steps in the tundra.
It is summer when the champagne glass breaks
It is “officially” summer in Longyearbyen when the stem of the champagne glass is broken. The “champagne glass” is a huge snow field with corresponding shape on Operafjellet, eight kilometres due east and easily seen from Longyearbyen.
The “champagne glass”, a snow field on Operafjellet, on Sunday (16th June) …
With progressing snow melt, the stem will break and the food is then separate from the cup, and once that has happened it is summer. That’s how they do it here. It is a popular sport to predict the date of this important event, which this year happened last Tuesday, which is quite early. In other years this happened in late July, depending on the amount of snow and the timing of the snow melting period.
… and on Friday (21st of June).
Messengers of spring this year less abundant: decline of snow buntings
Many people in Longyearbyen had the impression that the numbers of snow buntings were lower this year than usual. The snow bunting is Spitsbergen’s only singing bird. It comes around mid April and the beautiful voice of the male brings pleasure to all who have just had half a year of winter.
The impression that numbers were and are lower this year were now confirmed by scientists from NINA (Norwegian Institute for nature research), as Svalbardposten wrote. The scientists maintain a long-term population monitoring project which now comprises 27 years. The project includes monitoring 100 nesting boxes in Adventdalen. Usually, between 40 and 60 nests are found in these boxes (in all of them together, not in every single box 😅). This year, however, the total number was nine.
Snow bunting in Adventdalen in early June: this year in lower numbers.
The exact reasons are unclear, but just for a change, climate change is not amongst the primary suspects. Neither the conditions in the breeding areas in Spitsbergen. One theory is that a part of the population fell victim to extreme storms in the Barents Sea during the autumn migration. There were heavy storms in the Novaya Zemlya area last October, which fits regarding space and time. The bird flue and unusual cold temperatures in the wintering areas, the region around the border between Russia and Kazakhstan may also have played a role.
A rare extreme event of this kind leaves at least space for hope that the population may recover in years to come.
An evening in Adventdalen in June can be a little journey to paradise, especially for those interested in birds. Start at the common eider colony at the dogyard near Longyearbyen (an easy walk in town and located in the area that is generally considered polarbear-safe, certainly at the time of year when the ducks are breeding there). Just sit down somewhere and spend a little while quietly and you will see what I mean.
The current impression on the wide tundra areas nearby and a bit further into Adventdalen is a slightly different one. It is just an impression, totally selective in space and time, but the impression is that there are far fewer geese grazing now on the tundra in lower Adventdalen than there used to be in previous years.
A comparison. The first picture is from July 2022 …
Geese in Adventdalen, 2022.
… and the second picture was taken on Monday (10 June 2024).
Geese (or not) in Adventdalen, June 2024.
Was it the bird flu?
The location of both photos is not exactly the same (there is a few kilometres between them, but both places used to have plenty of geese in the past), June is not July and 2024 is obviously not 2022. So, just to make it clear again – it is just an impression. No data, no science. But I found the impression quite strong and it is that there are fewer geese around. Maybe they already went for other areas in the spring of 2024? There was little snow in May, that might be a difference. Or was it the bird (avian) flu? This disease may have played a role, as it is reported to have killed about 1/3 of the Svalbard population of Barnacle geese, amounting to 13,200 birds as Scotland’s Nature Agency im wrote in Oktober 2023. A staggering number.
Many species of smaller birds
But a closer look reveals a lot of life, especially amongst smaller birds, as the following little selection of photos may show.
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
First row, left: leucistic Barnacle geese are regularly seen, although very low in numbers. Middle: dunlin. Right: Red throated diver
Second row, left to right: Eurasian teal, reck-necked phalarope, snow bunting.
There were also some king eiders, but we saw them “only” in flight that time.
Especially Eurasian teal and reck-necked phalarope are amongst species that are not seen every day and everywhere in Spitsbergen. Lower Adventdalen has an impressive range of species, well worth a visit for bird lovers, and nature lovers in general.
We started the day in the lovely bay Eidembukta on the west coast with its wide tundra plains. Sunshine, blue sky, breeding geese (keep your distance), reindeer (don’t move, they might be curious and come pretty close), views on glaciers, lagoons and moraines. A wonderful part of Spitsbergen, very different from the steep, rocky, heavily glaciated areas further north which currently still have much more of a winter appearance.
Later we continued into Ymerbukta, our final stop in Spitsbergen’s beautiful nature, still with something near 2 kilometres of ice between the glacier and open water.
On the way back to Longyearbyen, we rounded things off with a passage near Grumantbyen, and later we went alongside in the harbour of Longyearbyen. Those who wanted to were still early enough to round the day off in the local brewery close the harbour – the world’s northernmost brewery.
So a wonderful journey came to its end. The weather had largely been really good, the spirits high, the wildlife was there … great stuff! Big thanks to all who have contributed to this, first of course the crew of the good sailing ship Antigua! And of course everybody else who was part of this trip and who came with enthusiasm and curiousity and good spirits. Save travels back home, and see you again next time! ☺️
Photo gallery – From Eidembukta to Ymerbukta and Longyearbyen – 06th June 2024
What a day! Full sunshine, and summer in the air. The air temperature was 5 degrees centigrade, but it felt like 20 🙂 the morning in Ny-Ålesund was pure pleasure.
Later we sailed south into Forlandsund. We still had walruses on the wishlist. Well, no problem …
Gallery – From Ny-Ålesund to Forlandsund – 06th June 2024
Waking up in Krossfjord with flat calm water and mirror images is a pretty good way to start the day 🙂 although it is painfully obvious here how dramatically the glaciers are retreating, both smaller ones such as Forbesbreen and the mighty Lilliehöökbreen. Still, they are hugely impressive. A great place!
A calm night at anchor is always a good thing, especially in beautiful Holmiabukta and accompanied by the mating call of ringed seals, a very special sound that you can only hear at this time of year when the ship is anchored and the engine is off.
Fuglesongen can make getting off and on again on the shore a challenge, but what you get in return can be stunning. You get close to the soul of the Arctic – in shape of countless little auks. The place is so full with life.
Later, the majestic Fuglefjord presented itself in the most beautiful sunshine. What a pleasure! A polar bear in Kobbefjord rounded the day off.
Galerie – Northwest Spitsbergen – 04th June 2024
The days are full and beautiful, and there is not much time to write. The weather God is clearly on our side. A little bit of fog just added to the atmosphere, and then the sun came out in full splendor in inner Raudfjord. The ice was breaking up in Ayerfjord, something that clearly benefitted biological productivity, and the table was laid for huge numbers of Brünich’s guillemots and several Minke whales.
We had already covered a lot of distance to the north so we were on Spitsbergen’s north coast this morning, ready to sail for the ice. And so we did. We reached the ice edge after a couple of hours at 80°31’N. What a wonderful icy world! That’s were we spent the next couple of hours.
Then we went south again, with a perfect gentle sailing wind. All sails went up, one by one. Beautiful, that’s how we love it!
Here we go, starting with SV Antigua in Spitsbergen!
Looking at the weather forecast, we decided to get north quickly, even though that meant sailing the first night including some bumpy stretches. Next morning, we wanted to go for our first landing in Engelskbukta, only to see a polar bear coming out of the water exactly where we wanted to go – what an amazing start to the day and the trip!
Under sails, we continued northwards, although the swell did not exactly make this passage the greatest bit of sailing fun ever. So everybody quite enjoyed touching solid ground later that day in Bjørnhamna.
Gallery – Longyearbyen to Smeerenburgfjord – 31st May / 01st June 2024