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Yearly Archives: 2015 − Travelblog


Fjord of wind – fjord of colours – 04rd Sep­tem­ber 2015

Fønfjord has got its name for a rea­son, and it lived up to its repu­ta­ti­on. Of cour­se the kata­ba­tic wind blows down and away from the inland ice, strai­ght on the nose for us, that is. It is safe to bet the house on it. Pret­ty strong today, the wind.

But who says you can’t go ashore in Fønfjord?

Pho­to Fjord of wind – fjord of colours – 04rd Sep­tem­ber 2015

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The­re is a nice litt­le bay on the shore of Mil­ne Land, whe­re Ópal cele­bra­ted her lovely water cere­mo­ny. Mea­ning that we fil­led up our water sup­plies the­re. The cap­tain put the bow strai­ght on to the beach, and down into a litt­le clear stream with the pump. Small ship plea­su­res!

Pho­to Røde Ø – 04rd Sep­tem­ber 2015 – 1/2

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Rødefjord also has got its name for a rea­son. Deeply red sand­stone. Near Red Island, natu­re has crea­ted an ama­zing wall of basalt colum­ns like a pile of fire­wood. Ver­ti­cal rock faces, just like Marl­bo­ro Coun­try.

Pho­to Røde Ø – 04rd Sep­tem­ber 2015 – 2/2

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But the ice­bergs are of cour­se the best part. The famous ice­berg gra­vey­ard north of Røde Ø, ice­berg alley, ice­berg city, wha­te­ver you want to call it. An incredi­ble gathe­ring of huge ice­bergs, migh­ty giants, groun­ded and sur­roun­ded with water calm like a mir­ror, sca­ry dimen­si­ons and ama­zing num­bers. Deep green colours indi­ca­te mas­si­ve volu­mes of ice under water. After the zodiac tour, cap­tain Hörður asked me if I lik­ed it. What a ques­ti­on. If you don’t like that, then Green­land is not a place to go for you. The sheer beau­ty would make ever­yo­ne speach­less, I guess.

Basalt hea­ven in Vikin­ge­bug­ten – 03rd Sep­tem­ber 2015

The night has brought a fresh, white cover of snow to the ship and to the land. But it is thawing alrea­dy, get­ting grey and wet, and it will not last for long.

The crew has to fight some near­go­ing ice floes off with long poles during the night.

Pho­to Basalt hea­ven in Vikin­ge­bug­ten – 03rd Sep­tem­ber 2015

Basalt heaven

The who­le coun­try south of Scores­by­sund con­sists of basalt. The blood of the Earth, shed when a crack star­ted to split a huge con­ti­nent from south to north. The crack kept gro­wing and today we know it as the Atlan­tic oce­an. The Earth’s blood that was spil­led during ear­ly sta­ges of that pro­cess, that is the basalt. A huge basalt pla­teau that later bro­ke into two parts. The Færøer Islands are part of the eas­tern bit.

Pho­to Taen­der­ne – 03rd Sep­tem­ber 2015

Basalt heaven

East Green­land south of Scores­by­sund is the wes­tern bit. This is why we find so many of nature’s archi­tec­tu­ral mas­ter­pie­ces, the basalt colum­ns, in this area, in all shapes and sizes. The snow makes the struc­tures very appearent in many pla­ces.

Pho­to Hec­la Havn – 03rd Sep­tem­ber 2015

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It is clea­ring up in the after­noon. The rocky hills of Dan­mark Ø invi­te for some good hiking. Colour­ful rocks pro­vi­de insight in bil­li­ons of years of Earth histo­ry next to ama­zing views over a very fine bit of Green­land.

From Reykja­vik to Scores­by­sund

It could have been a lovely calm night of desper­ate­ly nee­ded good sleep if that film team had not picked the litt­le street just out­side my guest­house room to start filming at 5 a.m. I hope it will be a suc­cess­ful film, at least.

At 8 a.m., our small group of Green­land explo­rers met at the litt­le domestic air­port. Cros­sing the Den­mark Strait in 27000 feet alti­tu­de is much fas­ter and more com­for­ta­ble than riding the waves for days.

Pho­to Blos­se­vil­le Kyst – 02nd Sep­tem­ber 2015

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The first part of Green­land that we saw was the Blos­se­vil­le Kyst around Rømer Ø, south of Scores­by­sund.

Pho­to Cons­ta­ble Point – 02nd Sep­tem­ber 2015

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In Hur­ry Inlet, Ópal was wai­t­ing for us next to her sis­ter ves­sel Don­na Wood, a new mem­ber of the North Sai­ling fleet.

The first ice­bergs never fail to attract atten­ti­on, and so do the moun­tains south of Scores­by­sund. This wild coast is cal­led Vol­quart Boons Kyst, a very inhos­pi­ta­ble shore, with rug­ged moun­tains rising stee­ply more than 1000 metres high from the fjord, sepa­ra­ted by some crev­as­sed gla­ciers. A view as for­bidding as attrac­ti­ve.

Pho­to Hall Bred­ning – 02nd Sep­tem­ber 2015

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We want to get to the inner bran­ches of the fjord, so we spend the after­noon sai­ling until we reach Vikin­ge­bug­ten. The anchor goes to the bot­tom and we go to bed.

Four polar bears, one wal­rus – 11th August 2015

New trip, new luck. Old polar friends with their friends and rela­ti­ves, a very fami­li­ar set­ting right from the begin­ning. Very plea­sant.

A litt­le bit of swell in the Isfjord ent­ran­ce. Christ­mas-tree Wil­li finds out that the sea is some­thing dif­fe­rent than a forest. The shaking of a boat is less plea­sant than the shaking of the trees.

Mir­ror images on the water in For­landsund. Moun­tains and gla­ciers seem to rise both upwards into the sky and down­wards on the water.

Pho­to Kongsfjord – 11th August 2015 – 1/2

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Ny Åle­sund is a good start, a gent­le tran­si­ti­on from zivi­li­sa­ti­on to the arc­tic wil­der­ness. And mee­ting Mar­ten Loo­nen, the head of the Dut­ch arc­tic sta­ti­on, is always a very plea­sant affair, whe­re you will always learn a lot. Geese and foxes chan­ge in having good and bad years, rough­ly simi­lar­ly to lem­mings. The cycles don’t have three years, but seven or eight. The grass, the rein­de­er, rain or snow, it is all part of the sys­tem. It is com­plex.

Pho­to Kongsfjord – 11th August 2015 – 2/2

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A dead wal­rus on the shore as attrac­ted two polar bear fami­lies. Two mothers, each with one cub of the year. One fami­ly is stay­ing a bit away while the other one is fee­ding. The mother is paying full atten­ti­on to the wal­rus car­cass, while the cub is busy with a pie­ce of drift­wood. The small boat with the visi­tors off the beach is, howe­ver, com­ple­te­ly irrele­vant to them. A reach meal, a feast for bears and tou­rists. A wild bit of arc­tic natu­re. A gre­at expe­ri­ence. Unless you are the wal­rus.

Erd­mann­flya – 05th August 2015

A calm night, a calm pas­sa­ge nor­thwards to Isfjord, inter­rup­ted only by a short stop when cod appeared on the depth soun­der – din­ner was secu­red. Time to show some pho­tos, for the very first time, from our Bee­ren­berg ascent on Jan May­en in July.
Then we reach Borebuk­ta, one of tho­se bays in the rather civi­li­sed Isfjord area whe­re the­re is not too much traf­fic. Once again, we ven­ture into the arc­tic wil­der­ness, without see­ing anyo­ne. Once again into the silent tun­dra, flat coas­tal plains, which seem boring from the distance but are actual­ly full of details. An old, small sealing ship on the shore loo­ks as if it was left behind by its crew with the inten­ti­on to con­ti­nue the voya­ge soon, but they never retur­ned. What hap­pen­ed? No idea. (Amend­ment: the boat was left the­re by a well-known inha­bi­tant of Lon­gye­ar­by­en usual­ly known as „Hamarøy­en“ – he came from the island Hamarøy – to ser­ve as accom­mo­da­ti­on. The near­by lake has always been popu­lar for fishing amongst the locals).

Beaches, inter­rup­ted by small capes and cliff coasts, incis­ed rivers. Rock land­s­capes with fox dens, and very appro­pria­te­ly, two young polar foxes, one of them rea­son­ab­ly curious. A litt­le herd of six rein­de­er making a curious semi-cir­cle around us. A nice fare­well from Spitsbergen’s tun­dra.

The surf had picked up and did not lea­ve all boots dry. Good we had been able to avoid that during the trips so far.

Gal­le­ry Erd­mann­flya – 05th August 2015

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

A last, calm night at anchor in Cole­s­buk­ta, then some final miles to Lon­gye­ar­by­en. Then the voya­ge is over. My very own par­ty is based on fresh arc­tic char from the north coast, a pre­sent from Pål. It is enough for me for two days.

Bellsund – 04th August 2015

Bellsund – sounds almost like home, a peace­ful place J far away from all that ice, back in the green tun­dra under the noi­sy birdcliffs, the colour­ful flowers, the rein­de­er, the ele­gant­ly cur­ved bays. After a day on the ship yes­ter­day, it was nice to stretch legs a litt­le bit, a good 300 metres up to get a pan­ora­ma view of Bellsund. Akseløya with its ama­zing struc­tures in the north, Fri­dt­jov­breen, the lar­ge val­leys Ber­ze­li­us­da­len and Reinda­len. The lush tun­dra with count­less flowers on Mid­ter­huks­let­ta, inter­rup­ted by deeply incis­ed ice wed­ges. The litt­le rocky capes on the sou­thern side, and some jag­ged moun­tains and wide gla­ciers in the distance. An ama­zin­gly beau­ti­ful coun­try, on a good day.

Gal­le­ry Bellsund – 04th August 2015

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

A calm evening at anchor with a view to Fri­dt­jov­breen rounds the day off.

Ice … with a litt­le help from my friends – 03rd August 2015

Yes, the ice keeps on kee­ping us busy for some time. The next den­se belt of drift ice is just ahead of us. Sør­kapp Land seems so clo­se. Given the­se con­di­ti­ons, the­re are not many other ships in the area, but we are not the only ones now. The Hur­tig­ru­ten ship MS Fram is north of us, stea­ming south, a fast, strong ves­sel with a friend­ly Cap­tain. We con­ti­nue behind Fram, the ship is wide enough to crea­te a nice chan­nel in the ice. Their pas­sen­gers are enjoy­ing the ope­ra­ti­on, and so do we. Not an ever­y­day thing, defi­ni­te­ly.

Pho­to Sør­kapp – 03rd August 2015 – 1/3

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After a first, den­se sec­tion, the ice is get­ting more open. Kit­ty­wa­kes are fishing in Fram’s wake, and the wild sce­ne­ry of Sør­kapp Land pro­vi­des a sple­ndid back­ground. And as a final high­light, a polar bear is showing up. A big, strong, proud male, batt­le-scar­red with many scars on its face and nose.

Pho­to Sør­kapp – 03rd August 2015 – 2/3

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The wide pas­sa­ge around the south cape takes most of the night, and the­re are drift ice fiel­ds bet­ween us and the coast all of the time. Same now, in the ear­ly morning. Horn­sund is in view, but behind wide ice fiel­ds. We are crui­sing bet­ween the ice floes, Pål is enjoy­ing his time on the stee­ring wheel, while I am watching for polar bears and wri­ting this blog in bet­ween.

Pho­to Sør­kapp – 03rd August 2015 – 3/3

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We will keep a distance to Horn­sund, let’s see whe­re we end up today, pro­bab­ly Bellsund. A good, safe ancho­ra­ge is the next thing we need, some rest for the skip­per, a lan­ding for ever­y­bo­dy else.

Ice – 03rd August 2015

Ice … we’ve had a simi­lar head­line befo­re, didn’t we? Pos­si­b­ly. Now we are off Isbuk­ta, sou­thern east coast of Spits­ber­gen. At least, we have not been this far south befo­re, recent­ly, the south cape seems so clo­se.

Ear­lier today, we thought once again that we were through, the ice stay­ed behind, open water ahead … but a few miles later, more ice, the next den­se belt of drift ice. Accord­ing to today’s ice chart, it should have been an iso­la­ted field of „open drift ice“, well, we have heard that befo­re.

Pho­to Ice – 03rd August 2015

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Habe­nicht­buk­ta – 01st + 02nd August 2015

Let’s for­get yes­ter­day. Too many tough hours were spent criss-cros­sing Storfjord, back and forth, in strong wind and high seas, try­ing to find an ope­ning in the ice and a pas­sa­ge south. What loo­ked like a pas­sa­ge tur­ned out to be a dead-end road. The east coast of Spits­ber­gen loo­ked so clo­se, Horn­sund­tind was clear­ly visi­ble, but as out-of-reach as the moon.

Habe­nicht­buk­ta – 01st + 02nd August 2015

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Final­ly we decla­red the case as hopeless for the time being and stea­med off towards Edgeøya, some more hours against the waves, but then we found a good ancho­ra­ge in Habe­nicht­buk­ta, shel­te­red from the sea and thus rea­son­ab­ly calm. Soon, life came back on our good, litt­le Arc­ti­ca II, peop­le appeared again and cha­os was tur­ned back into a cosy home.

The idea to sit the wea­ther out in this rather com­for­ta­ble posi­ti­on was quick­ly wel­co­med by ever­yo­ne. We could also expect that the ice, which accord­ing to all avail­ab­le infor­ma­ti­on couldn’t be more than a rela­tively thin stri­pe, should be spread by the strong wind, so a pas­sa­ge to the south cape should be pos­si­ble in the near future. So the next thing to do was a good din­ner, an enjoya­ble social evening and a good, long night’s sleep J

Pho­to Has­sen­stein­buk­ta – 02. August 2015

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The wide tun­dra of sou­thwes­tern Edgeøya is an arc­tic dream, so of cour­se we went out this morning to explo­re a bit, and our litt­le sunday morning walk tur­ned out to last a good cou­p­le of hours. The tun­dra has an ama­zing dis­play of colours, it covers a low­land of rol­ling hills on basalt rock. Altog­e­ther, this attracts the eye and the atten­ti­on without any limi­ta­ti­on. The wide flat-top­ped moun­tains in the distance give the sce­ne­ry the cha­rac­ter that is so typi­cal for sou­the­as­tern Spits­ber­gen. A wild, beau­ti­ful arc­tic coun­try. Colour­ful flowers, the polar wil­low is showing the first hints of autumn. A mul­ti-chan­n­eled arc­tic river, a rein­de­er, old fox traps from times of hun­ting which are histo­ry now sin­ce long. A long, silent rest to enjoy the impres­si­ons and let the eye wan­der and the spi­rit won­der.

Pho­to Habe­nicht­buk­ta – 02. August 2015

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A second lan­ding in the late after­noon tur­ned out to be a short-lived affair. After a short walk only, we saw a polar bear wal­king a bit fur­ther south. We went back to the ship and left him alo­ne in his king­dom.

More wal­rus­ses, more wind, more ice – 07/31 + 08/01/2015

(31st July – 01st August 2015) – The day star­ted nice and sun­ny, but soon it tur­ned out to be qui­te win­dy, which is not par­ti­cu­lar­ly hel­pful on the rather unpro­tec­ted shores of Storfjord. Against expec­ta­ti­on, we mana­ged a lan­ding on Edgeøya, enjoy­ed the lovely tun­dra, the wide land­s­cape, a group of wal­rus­ses sun­bat­hing near an old trap­per hut, not far from a wal­rus gra­vey­ard whe­re hund­reds of their grand­g­rand­par­ents were slaugh­te­red by wha­lers and hun­ters for their ivory, blub­ber and skin. Now, wal­rus­ses are again enjoy­ing their life near the old, bleaching bones. Natu­re is taking her space again, even if it takes time.

More wal­rus­ses, more wind, more ice – 07/31 + 08/01/2015

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Assuming that com­ple­ting a cir­cum­na­vi­ga­ti­on of Spits­ber­gen would only be a mat­ter of sai­ling down Storfjord and around the south cape, we set cour­se that way. But the ice field that was shown on the latest ice chart as a rather thin belt of open drift bet­ween sou­thern Edgeøya and the east coast of Spits­ber­gen tur­ned out to be solid, den­se pack ice, pushed tog­e­ther by the strong nort­her­ly wind. Now we have been try­ing for more than 12 hours to find a gap in that ice field, and if we don’t find it soon, then we have to turn around and head nor­thwards again, back through Heley­sund and Hin­lo­pen Strait … not a very plea­sant thought at all, but natu­re rules. A king­dom for an accu­ra­te, up-to-date ice chart and a good wea­ther fore­cast!

Wal­rus­ses, ice and cur­r­ents – 30th July 2015

An incredi­ble day. It star­ted qui­te ear­ly in den­se fog and with a group of wal­rus­ses, who were in good shape and pret­ty acti­ve. It con­ti­nued in fog and with more and more ice. The ice stay­ed, the fog went, and so we con­ti­nued through an extre­me­ly plea­sant after­noon, crui­sing under a bright sun through the most beau­ti­ful ice, watching seals and birds. Pure high arc­tic.

Then the­re was the ques­ti­on if it would be pos­si­ble to pass through Heley­sund. Watching the fiel­ds of drift ice, which were get­ting lar­ger and lar­ger and den­ser and den­ser, one would hard­ly have pla­ced a bet on a suc­cess­ful pas­sa­ge. But wait and see. The cur­rent incre­a­sed, and final­ly we had reached a point whe­re a return would have been dif­fi­cult and then even impos­si­ble. Unfor­tu­n­a­te­ly I can’t send a video at this time (later!), and it is hard to descri­be this pas­sa­ge. A rol­ler­coas­ter ride in strong cur­r­ents, tog­e­ther with a lar­ge field of drift ice. The indi­vi­du­al ice floes were all drif­ting here and the­re and ever­y­whe­re, pure cha­os. Skip­per Pål mane­ouvred fran­ti­cal­ly, try­ing not to bump too much into ice, but that was hard to avoid. Luck­i­ly, the Arc­ti­ca II is built to take some bea­ting in the ice. Any other sai­ling boat with a hull made from any other mate­ri­al than good, strong steel would have been crus­hed to pie­ces. The views of the near­by ice­floes see­med to indi­ca­te a tur­bu­lent, but sta­tio­na­ry posi­ti­on, a look towards the rocky shores made clear that we were actual­ly drif­ting with some ama­zing speed, far bey­ond the capa­bi­li­ty of the engi­ne alo­ne.

Gal­le­ry Wal­rus­ses, ice and cur­r­ents – 30th July 2015

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Now we are through, a very impres­si­ve expe­ri­ence richer, and loo­king for­ward to a calm ancho­ra­ge, a litt­le late evening walk on Bar­entsøya, and defi­ni­te­ly some hours og good sleep.

Lomfjord & Hin­lo­pen – 29th July 2015

Yes, good wea­ther, that’s what we want and what we need. The wind had lar­ge­ly cal­med down and even the sun was com­ing out at times. So on we went, with sand­wi­ches and ther­mos bot­t­les, into the tun­dra and up the moun­tains. Gre­at views of the land­s­cape near and far, bizar­re shapes of wea­the­ring snow on the banks of litt­le rivers, ptar­mi­gans and rein­de­er, flowers and erra­tic boul­ders, lar­ge val­leys with gla­ciers and morai­nes. Six hours exact­ly as we want them.

Pho­to Faks­eva­gen – 29th Juli 2015 – 1/2

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Hin­lo­pen Strait its­elf, howe­ver, is less hos­pi­ta­ble, but bet­ter than yes­ter­day, less wind. And the lively acti­vi­ty of hund­red thousands of Brünich’s guil­lemots at Alkef­jel­let is always extre­me­ly impres­si­ve, also when the sky is grey.

Pho­to Faks­eva­gen – 29th Juli 2015 – 2/2

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Now we are curious about the near future. We have good hopes for less wind, wal­rus­ses, a visit to the gre­at ice cap of Nord­aus­t­land and drift ice. Enough to be inte­res­ting, but not too much, so we may suc­cess­ful­ly sail into Storfjord, the most important step to turn this trip into a cir­cum­na­vi­ga­ti­on of the main island of Spits­ber­gen.

Pho­to Alkef­jel­let – 29th Juli 2015

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Wind & Ice – 28th July 2015

It is as if someo­ne had pushed a but­ton in the wea­ther sys­tem of the far north some days ago. After the calm weeks that we had until mid July, we have now got the second peri­od with strong winds in Spits­ber­gen. The first one wasn’t much of a bother to us, as we had spent some very enjoya­ble days in the shel­ter of inner Kongsfjord, as the rea­der may remem­ber. Right now, we have heard that a full-grown storm is raging around Sør­kapp (the south cape), and sai­ling boats wait in Lon­gye­ar­by­en for the wind to calm down befo­re they lea­ve.

Last night, the anchor was drag­ging in Murchi­son­fjord, Arc­ti­ca II was vigo­rous­ly pul­ling on the chain in the gusts. It was kind of ok until the morning, but it was clear that this was no place to spend more time than necessa­ry. A bay that pro­vi­des shel­ter not only from the sea but also from the wind, that would be good now.

Pho­to Hin­lo­pen – 28th July 2015

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Addi­tio­nal­ly, we have got the infor­ma­ti­on that the­re is move­ment in the ice off the eas­tern tip of Spits­ber­gen. So far, the pas­sa­ge from sou­thern Hin­lo­pen to Heley­sund had been blo­cked by den­se drift ice, but now it seems to be open. This pas­sa­ge is not very long, but cur­r­ent­ly the cru­cial bit with regards to a poten­ti­al cir­cum­na­vi­ga­ti­on of Spits­ber­gen. Now we are half-way through the voya­ge, time-wise. If we want to sail around Spits­ber­gen, then we have to keep an eye on time.

Pho­to Faks­eva­gen – 28th July 2015

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Enough rea­sons altog­e­ther to lea­ve Murchi­son­fjord and set cour­se sou­thwards in Hin­lo­pen Strait, even if that invol­ves rough sea for a cou­p­le of hours. But not for too long. It was nice to walk on solid tun­dra ground later in Lomfjord.

Murchi­son­fjord – 27th July 2015

Inner Murchi­son­fjord is teasing with its wide-open land­s­capes, bar­ren but then so rich in detail, and the vicini­ty of the inland ice. So we went out, equip­ped with ther­mos bot­t­les and sand­wi­ches, fol­lowing litt­le val­leys inland. A moon land­s­cape, but so colour­ful, may­be rather a Mars land­s­cape? Pre­cam­bri­an colours turn some of the hills deeply red. Thanks to the stroma­to­li­thes, who initi­al­ly pro­du­ced all that free oxy­gen.

Pho­to Trio­da­len – 27th July 2015 – 1/2

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Even the rivers seem to hide from the har­sh cli­ma­te some­ti­mes, as they build some beau­ti­ful snow brid­ges and tun­nels. Good views of the inland ice, Ves­t­fon­na. Only the begin­ning dest­ruc­tion of a hiking boot keeps us from wal­king the last bit to the ice. But to appre­cia­te the great­ness of a moun­tain (or ice cap), you have to keep a distance any­way.

Pho­to Trio­da­len – 27th July 2015 – 2/2

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And seven hours of fresh air don’t lea­ve much to be desi­red. The­re is ple­nty of fresh air today, the air seems to be in a rush. We hide in a small side bay with the boat, try­ing to get a litt­le bit out of the wind. The ropes are ban­ging against the mast, making a lost of noi­se, and the anchor is audi­b­ly working to keep Arc­ti­ca II in posi­ti­on. Hope­ful­ly the wind goes down a bit.

Pho­to Far­gef­jel­let – 27th July 2015 – 1/2

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Mos­sel­buk­ta – 26th July 2015

In inner Mos­sel­buk­ta, the land­s­cape does not real­ly know if it wants to be land or sea. A num­ber of beaches sepa­ra­te smal­ler and lar­ger lagoons, pen­in­su­las reach out into the bay, a num­ber of litt­le rivers is run­ning across the tun­dra. It is nice to hike in this diver­se and varied envi­ron­ment. Remains of an old hut show whe­re Rus­si­an hun­ters used to live cen­tu­ries ago, two gra­ves show that not all of them made it back home.

Pho­to Mos­sel­buk­ta – 26th Juli 2015 – 1/3

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We found remains of woo­den ship wrecks near the shore. May­be from the cata­stro­phic win­ter in 1872-73, when the famous Swe­dish explo­rer Adolf Erik Nor­dens­kiöld win­te­red in Mos­sel­buk­ta? His ship was also for­ced to win­ter, as an ear­ly win­ter storm pushed ice into the bay. The ship made it well through the win­ter, but other ones that were also trap­ped were cras­hed and lost. The win­ter storms can be bru­tal here, as the immense amounts of drift­wood make clear. The­re are also immense amounts of plastic rub­bish, con­stant­ly com­ing in over long distan­ces with sea cur­r­ents, unfor­tu­n­a­te­ly. Mos­sel­buk­ta is defi­ni­te­ly on the list for a clean-up.

But away from the plastic, the­re is so much beau­ty on the­se coasts. Oys­ter­leaf is flowe­ring, pro­tec­ted by some lar­ge drift­wood logs.

Pho­to Mos­sel­buk­ta – 26th Juli 2015 – 2/3

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Later in the day: fish soup with fresh, local­ly caught arc­tic char, the cros­sing of 80 degrees, roun­ding Ver­le­gen­hu­ken and cros­sing nort­hern Hin­lo­pen Strait towards Nord­aus­t­land, some­thing that does invol­ve some rock and roll as the­re is a bit of wind against us.

Pho­to Mos­sel­buk­ta – 26th Juli 2015 – 3/3

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Later, Murchi­son­fjord brought shel­ter from wind and waves and a lovely late evening walk in the polar desert of Nord­aus­t­land in the most beau­ti­ful evening light.

Pho­to Kval­ross­hal­voya – 26. Juli 2015

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