This was followed by a morning in the tundra between Farmhamna and Eidembukta and a somewhat grey but interesting evening in Colesbukta. With lots of ice in Borebukta and a few miles under sail towards Longyearbyen, this beautiful, eventful journey came to an end. We didn’t reach the drift ice, but to our great delight we were lucky with the polar bears, and what other exciting impressions and experiences did these wonderful days bring! All of this in a great atmosphere, for which I would like to thank everyone, first and foremost the crew of SV Meander of course – thank you to everyone, and see you soon in July!
We spent a good two days in the north-west of Spitsbergen, between Bjørnhamna and Raudfjord. Unfortunately, due to the weather, we were not granted a trip to the drift ice (the wave height there was 1-1.5 metres at the time), so we spent a day in Raudfjord instead. We didn’t regret the swap 🐻❄️😎 and were once again able to see that even with the now legally required distance of 500 metres (300 metres from 1 July), an impressive experience and beautiful photos are possible.
I’ve been out and sailing again on SV Meander since Wednesday, but so far there’s simply been no opportunity to take care of the travel blog. Even now this selection of pictures will have to suffice, a few impressions of the first two days, from Longyearbyen to Kongsfjord.
These issues have been under discussion for ages, and now the government has made decisions and, according to an official press release, announced both new regulations on field safety, i.e. for all traffic outside the settlements of Svalbard, and for a compulsory certification scheme for guides.
Both have been under discussion for a long time, in particular a certification scheme for guides. To date, this designation has been unprotected in Svalbard and, apart from a licence to carry a weapon, no formally verified qualifications are required to work as a guide in Svalbard. This is about to change: Appropriate certification will be required from 2027.
Anything can fall under the heading of ‘field safety’, from the question of how to secure camps from polar bear visits to whether or not a weapon should be carried in a car, for example on the road in Adventdalen (at least that was once under discussion). However, a large part of the regulations in question will probably only apply outside administrative area 10. This area includes a large land area around Longyearbyen (Nordenskiöld Land) and Pyramiden (Dickson Land) as well as a smaller area around Ny-Ålesund. Locals and tourists should still be able to move around relatively easily in these areas.
Guide at work (as polar bear guard): from 2027 with certificate.
What exactly this will look like, what is required to get this certification, whether every guide must have it or only the leading guides in the team, and what exactly the field safety regulations will require, I can’t say yet. The press release is from yesterday (6 June), I am currently sailing on SV Meander and the days are long and full, so there is no way to read the attached documents in full, and whether these ‘details’ have all been finalised is not yet clear. I will return to the subject here as soon as I have time and the relevant information is available.
Monday was the last day of this wonderful trip. It’s unbelievable how quickly time flies when it’s so full and varied.
We spent this day in Billefjord. Even though our hopes of seeing a polar bear were ultimately not realised, this day was a wonderful end to a beautiful trip, with shore excursions in Skansbukta and on Gipshuksletta and a trip along the fjord ice edge in inner Billefjord.
This was the end of this trip to the snow and ice landscapes of the Arctic spring. Many thanks to everyone who took part – it was a pleasure! And of course to the crew of SV Meander!
The morning in Borebukta was nothing short of magnificent. Under excitingly changeable (harmless, but beautiful) weather conditions, we headed towards Borebreen.
The afternoon began with a walk at Bohemanneset and then we sailed towards Billefjord until we dropped anchor in Skansbukta. What a beautiful day, once again!
A beautiful day on the west coast of Spitsbergen, in Forlandsund. It was good to see the sun again.
Forlandsund is known for walruses. That’s what we were after, and they were at home ☺️
We went for a short hike in St. Jonsfjord. A bit of exercise did us good, and the views over the landscape, fell and fjord, snow and ice … marvellous!
Then it was time to get away from the west coast. It was going to be quite stormy there over the next few days. But that shouldn’t bother us too much in Isfjord. So off we went!
The layman is amazed, the expert is astonished: just now, when newly introduced new rules are causing confusion for many, the system manager is cutting back on field inspectors. Yet this year in particular there is probably a lot to check and probably a few parking tickets to hand out.
Normally, the Sysselmester has three teams in the field during the main season, each consisting of a police officer and a scientist, such as a biologist. These teams are stationed in Isfjord (Trygghamna), Kongsfjord and north-west Spitsbergen (Magdalenefjord-Woodfjord) and are there to keep an eye on tourists, document the condition of cultural monuments, count birds and things like that.
You would have to be a field inspector at the Sysselmester! This is how you would be accommodated in Magdalenefjord before you move to Mushamna.
This year, however, there will only be the northern team, which will initially be stationed in Magdalenefjord and later move to Mushamna in Woodfjord. The teams in Kongsfjord and Isfjord have been cancelled for budget reasons, as Svalbardposten wrote.
A day in the north-west of Spitsbergen. Starting in the beautiful Hamiltonbukta in Raudfjord, reindeer and arctic foxes said good morning to each other under a large birdcliff. Later, we met an almost curious bearded seal.
The large Svitjodbreen glacier in Fuglefjord was a little grey, but this made it appear even wilder and more powerful.
Some friendly harbour seals on the coast of Danskøya rounded off this eventful, beautiful day.
‘Cast off’ was the motto on Monday on the Meander in Longyearbyen, off and away into this time that lies somewhere between Arctic winter and summer. With lots of snow and ice, but without snowmobiles and without the extremely cold temperatures that could make being outside a few weeks ago a bit of a challenge.
So the Arctic summer is well on its way to Spitsbergen, and in co-operation with a hefty dose of climate change, this hot duo is in the process of moving the drift ice northwards away from the coast of Spitsbergen. As we wanted to get a glimpse of the drift ice, we made sure to get there with a stopover in Ny-Ålesund before it was completely out of reach. ‘Normally’, let’s say 20 years ago, the drift ice edge would perhaps have been found in the Amsterdamøya area on the coast at the end of May. Today it lies at 80 degrees north. And that’s where – and a few miles further – we were on the third day of the trip to experience the beautiful world of ice. Rounded off by a lovely little evening landing in Sallyhamna.
A short trip with SV Meander in Isfjord. Just 1.5 days, and yet it was really worth it – especially as nobody flew in, the participants were all local members of the Longyearbyen Photo Club (fotoklubb).
It’s unbelievable what you can do and see in such a short time if you’re lucky with the weather! A few impressions, from Trygghamna to Borebukta and Colesbukta:
It was exactly 100 years ago today that Roald Amundsen took off with two flying boats (seaplanes) from Ny-Ålesund in Kongsfjord. It was his first attempt to fly to the North Pole. The attempt was not successful: shortly before 88 degrees north, both aeroplanes had to land in the ice, and it was only with unspeakable difficulty that they managed to take off again after 25 days. One of the two planes had to be left behind, the six members of the expedition reached Nordaustland in the other plane and were rescued there by a Norwegian sealing vessel that happened to be nearby.
The famous expeditions with Nobile and the airships Norge (1926) and Italia (1928) followed in the years that followed. As is well known, the Italia was wrecked and part of the crew disappeared without a trace. Nobile and the remaining crew were rescued. Amundsen had set off in search of Nobile, but died in the process. His exact fate is still unknown today.
Roald Amundsen in Ny-Ålesund.
The two Dornier-Wal aircraft N24 and N25 took off on 21 May 1925 – exactly 100 years ago today – marking the start of this last, famous and dramatic chapter in Amundsen’s life as an explorer, characterised by flying expeditions to the North Pole.
The Fram Museum in Oslo is dedicating a new exhibition to this expedition.
It was out of print for a long time, but now it’s back in a revised form 🙂 the Svalbardhytter poster. beautifully illustrates the diversity of Spitsbergen’s many huts. 60 small manifestations of old Arctic adventures in wall format (70×100 cm)!