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Yearly Archives: 2024 − News & Stories


Score­s­by­øya, Par­ry­øya

We didn’t expect much today. The wea­ther fore­cast was pret­ty bor­ing (fog) and so was real life (fog).

But as so often up here, things just hap­pen­ed. On Score­s­by­øya on the north side of Nord­aus­t­land, the fog had lifted enough to go for a walk. We had to cut it a bit short, though, but the result didn’t dis­ap­point at all … just see the pho­tos in the gal­lery below.

Later, we were again lucky and could go for an evening walk on Par­ry­øya, one of Sjuøya­ne, Svalbard’s nor­t­hern­most islands.

Pho­to gal­lery: Score­s­by­øya, Par­ry­øya – 16th August 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

The Arc­tic Row 2024: from Trom­sø to Lon­gye­ar­by­en in a rowing boat

In a rowing boat from Trom­sø to Lon­gye­ar­by­en – pos­si­bly not ever­y­bo­dies dream and wit­hout any doubt some­thing that many would con­sider cra­zy or even impos­si­ble. That was obvious­ly not shared by Andy Savill, Toby Gre­go­ry and Orlaith Demp­sey, who star­ted “The Arc­tic Row 2024” in Trom­sø and arri­ved in Lon­gye­ar­by­en on Fri­day (16th August) after 16 stre­nuous days across the Barents Sea.

The Arctic Row 2024: from Tromsø to Longyearbyen in a rowing boat

Across the Barents Sea (with Bjørnøya in the back­ground) in a rowing boat.

The boat is spe­ci­al­ly desi­gned, but nevert­hel­ess the crew expe­ri­en­ced some tech­ni­cal dif­fi­cul­ties. Near Bjørnøya, the auto stee­ring sys­tem fai­led and the crew had to steer manu­al­ly with ropes, some­thing that dis­tur­bed the watch sys­tem and cost a lot of sleep. The three were accor­din­gly quite exhaus­ted when they arri­ved in Lon­gye­ar­by­en on Fri­day after­noon; they told Sval­bard­pos­ten that good sleep in a real bed, a show­er and food whe­re the hig­hest prio­ri­ties on their per­so­nal wish­list.

During the crossing, the team coll­ec­ted obser­va­tions and data inclu­ding under­wa­ter sound recor­dings for edu­ca­ti­on and sci­ence and to rise envi­ron­men­tal awa­re­ness.

Frank­lind­a­len, Bever­ly­d­a­len

Ano­ther gol­den day on the north side of Nord­aus­t­land. “Gol­den” not in the sen­se of clear sky and bril­li­ant suns­hi­ne, but in the sen­se of a good day fil­led with unfor­gettable stuff in this beau­tiful, pris­ti­ne high arc­tic area. Such as a hike from Lady Fran­k­lin­fjord through Frank­lind­a­len to Bren­ne­vins­fjord. And ano­ther hike, slight­ly shorter as mea­su­red in kilo­me­t­res but at least as stre­nuous, in Bever­ly­d­a­len. Won­derful!

Pho­to gal­le­ri: Frank­lind­a­len, Bever­ly­d­a­len – 14th August 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Lady Fran­k­lin­fjord

First thing today was crossing nor­t­hern Hin­lo­pen Strait towards Nord­au­s­tand. We had cho­sen the best wea­ther win­dow available, but nevert­hel­ess it was a bit bum­py at times.

After the nau­ti­cal­ly always chal­len­ging pas­sa­ge of Fran­k­lin­sund, we had Lady Fran­k­lin­fjord ahead of us – in suns­hi­ne! For a start, we just jum­ped at the oppor­tu­ni­ty of a walk on Tom­bo­loøya. Love­ly! This time we were not expel­led by a polar after a few minu­tes, as in 2017. Nice.

Talk about polar bears. Not far from Nord­re Fran­k­lin­breen. An unfor­gettable sight­ing of a who­le polar bear fami­ly!

A litt­le evening walk near Fran­k­lin­breen in sun­set light (wit­hout sun­set, though) roun­ded the day off.

Pho­to gal­lery: Lady Fran­k­lin­fjord – Tom­bo­loøya, Nord­re Fran­k­lin­breen – 13th August 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Tovik­buk­ta & Mos­sel­buk­ta

On the way to the east we made a stop in Tovik­buk­ta on the north side of Reins­dyr­flya. Yet ano­ther place whe­re you usual­ly don’t get to too often. Good stuff!

Mos­sel­buk­ta was the right place to spend ano­ther night befo­re we would cross Hin­lo­pen Strait. Of cour­se we didn’t miss the oppor­tu­ni­ty to have a look at the remains of Nordenskiöld’s old expe­di­ti­on base Pol­hem.

Pho­to gal­lery: Tovik­buk­ta & Mos­sel­buk­ta – 12th August 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Solan­derfjel­let & Store Russ­e­bus­trau­men

The war­mest August day Spits­ber­gen has ever seen – at least in Lon­gye­ar­by­en sin­ce they star­ted recor­ding meteo­ro­lo­gi­cal data in 1964. And pos­si­bly also the war­mest August day ever in Raud­fjord. It cer­tain­ly felt very warm.

Well, we enjoy­ed the sum­mer wea­ther during a love­ly hike up Solan­derfjel­let.

And later we rela­xed on the beach at the lagoon land­scape of More­ne­la­gu­ne at Store Russ­e­bus­trau­men. Beau­tiful!

Pho­to gal­lery: Solan­derfjel­let & Store Russ­e­bus­trau­men – 11th August 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Mag­da­le­nefjord and Dan­s­køya

The mor­ning in Mag­da­le­nefjord was a bit grey but good, start­ing at Wag­gon­way­breen and con­ti­nuing with a litt­le walk at Alke­kon­gen.

But the high­light of the day was wit­hout any doubt the hike across Dan­s­køya, from Kob­befjord in the west across the stony inland of the island to the the east side.

Pho­to gal­lery: Mag­da­le­nefjord and Dan­s­køya – 10th August 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

New tem­pe­ra­tu­re record for Lon­gye­ar­by­en

Hot news from Lon­gye­ar­by­en, in the truest sen­se of the word. The meteo­ro­lo­gi­cal sta­ti­on at Lon­gye­ar­by­en air­port recor­ded a stun­ning 20.3 degrees cen­ti­gra­de yes­ter­day (Sun­day, August 11) bet­ween 1400 and 1500 – war­mer than any August day befo­re on record, which goes back to 1964.

And it was wit­hout any doubt also warm in Lon­gye­ar­by­en, as we can con­firm from our own expe­ri­ence.

Temperature record Spitzbergen: sunny day on the north coast

It felt like 30 degrees on Sun­day on the north coast of Spits­ber­gen ☀️🥵 it may well have been clo­se to 20 degrees, but we don’t have a pro­per ther­mo­me­ter here.

Blom­strand­hal­vøya – Ham­burg­buk­ta

I am han­ging behind with my tra­vel blog, 3 days by now. That is gene­ral­ly a good sign. The­re is just too much going on here. We have now had three days of fan­ta­stic wea­ther, so the­re are good hikes and some other love­ly stuff every day.

Fri­day mor­ning began in Kongsfjord. We had ancho­red near Blom­strand­hal­vøya. Con­side­ring the gre­at wea­ther we had, a hike across Blom­strand was an obvious choice. We went up to Irgens­fjel­let which has an ama­zing pan­o­r­amic view of all the moun­ta­ins and gla­ciers around Kongsfjord and con­tin­ued to the old marb­le mine of Ny Lon­don / Marb­le Island.

A few hours later we went into Ham­burg­buk­ta, a small “hid­den” bay on the nor­t­hern west coast.

Ein paar Stun­den spä­ter haben wir noch eine Run­de in der Ham­burg­buk­ta gedreht, eine schö­ne, etwas ver­steck­te Bucht an der nörd­li­chen West­küs­te.

Pho­to gal­lery: Blom­strand­hal­vøya – Ham­burg­buk­ta – 09th August 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

For­lands­und & Kongsfjord

That Wed­nes­day in For­lands­und was pro­ba­b­ly the wet­test and grey­est way to start a Spits­ber­gen jour­ney you can only ima­gi­ne. But the mood was good, and that is the most important thing! Almost ever­y­bo­dy on board has alre­a­dy done at least one – seve­ral, in most cases – trips up here.

Well, at least we got to stretch legs a litt­le bit at Sar­stan­gen.

Kongsfjord wasn’t much bet­ter to start with. Alt­hough, it as most­ly dry and you could see some of the land­scape as we went around in Ny-Åle­sund.

Later the ski­es cle­ared up. We found a polar bear fami­ly in inner Kongsfjord, and as we approa­ched the Kong­s­ve­gen gla­cier, the grey clouds into a won­derful sky!

Pho­to gal­lery – For­lands­und & Kongsfjord – 07th/08th August 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Taking off with SY Arc­ti­ca II

This Tues­day was the day to start the long (19 days) jour­ney on Arc­ti­ca II! A long trip with a gre­at litt­le ship, full of oppor­tu­ni­ties others can’t even dream of. And this one is a bit spe­cial even within that con­text. Almost ever­y­bo­dy on board – a small group of 12 in total, inclu­ding crew – has been to and actual­ly around Spits­ber­gen befo­re, many more than once and many actual­ly on Arc­ti­ca II, which is pret­ty cool 😎

We did the last bits and pie­ces of shop­ping befo­re depar­tu­re – a bit more than usu­al to make sure we had ever­y­thing on board for the long trip – and final­ly ever­y­thing was on board and sto­wed away and we could take off. A cou­ple of hours later, the anchor fell near Kapp Sta­ros­tin, in the ent­rance of Isfjord.

Gal­lery – Lon­gye­ar­by­en & Isfjord – 06th August 2024

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

June, July: warm and wet

June and July pro­vi­ded some new ent­ries to a long ran­ge of record-brea­king wea­ther data in recent years. Cli­ma­te chan­ge is hap­pe­ning and it is stron­ger in the Arc­tic than else­whe­re.

The month­ly tem­pe­ra­tu­re avera­ge for June, as offi­ci­al­ly mea­su­red at Sval­bard air­port Lon­gyear, was as high as 8.3 degrees cen­ti­gra­de, hig­her than ever befo­re on record.

July was 1.3 degrees war­mer than the month­ly avera­ge, which now refers to the refe­rence peri­od of 1991-2020, a peri­od alre­a­dy signi­fi­cant­ly war­mer than the pre­vious refe­rence peri­od 1961-1990.

Temperature rekord Spitsbergen: sunny day in Longyearbyen

Tem­pe­ra­tu­re records in Spitz­ber­gen: tra­vel­lers could enjoy some warm and sun­ny sum­mer days both on small boats and on big ships …

But what real­ly caught the meteorologist’s atten­ti­on in July was the pre­ci­pi­ta­ti­on rather than tem­pe­ra­tu­re. With a stun­ning 48.7 mmm, it was more than twice as much rain than usu­al (20 mm), as the meteo­ro­lo­gist at Sval­bard air­port told Sval­bard­pos­ten. And inde­ed the­re were some very wet days in July, as both locals and tou­rists can con­firm. The small pede­stri­an bridge Per­le­por­ten in Lon­gye­ar­by­en (named after a coas­tal cave on Bjørnøya) was dama­ged by tor­ren­ti­al run­off during strong rain­falls.

Heavy rain in Longyearbyen

… but the­re was also wind, fog and rain, and not too litt­le of it all. This is the pede­stri­an bridge Per­le­por­ten in Lon­gye­ar­by­en, which was dama­ged during hea­vy rain­falls.

No Bar­neo flights from Lon­gye­ar­by­en

The Rus­si­an north pole drift ice camp Bar­nea has been an annu­al event from 2002 for a cou­ple of weeks each spring. Offi­ci­al­ly, it is main­ly for sci­ence, but it was regu­lar­ly used by north pole tou­rists and at least occa­sio­nal­ly for mili­ta­ry pur­po­ses such as in April 2016, when Che­chen spe­cial forces made a brief appearance in the air­port of Lon­gye­ar­by­en on tran­sit to Bar­neo on a Rus­si­an-led trai­ning mis­si­on.

But the main use appears to be within tou­rism: for pri­ces from 20,000 dol­lars and more, tou­rists could fly from Lon­gye­ar­by­en to Bar­neo and con­ti­nue from the­re to the north pole by heli­c­op­ter or ski.

The flight logi­stics for tou­rists used to go through Lon­gye­ar­by­en air­port, but this hub has not been available for this pur­po­se sin­ce 2018. This has led to nego­tia­ti­ons bet­ween the orga­ni­sa­ti­on behind Bar­neo, offi­ci­a­ly a Swiss com­pa­ny, and Nor­we­gi­an aut­ho­ri­ties.

Longyearbyen airport: no Barneo-flights

Sval­bard luft­havn Lon­gyear in April, the Bar­neo-sea­son: no north pole flights from the­re.

Recent­ly the Nor­we­gi­an govern­ment con­firm­ed their nega­ti­ve ans­wer: the air­port near Lon­gye­ar­by­en is at times ope­ra­ting near its capa­ci­ty limits, and neces­sa­ry stand­by emer­gen­cy ser­vices are limi­t­ed. It comes in addi­ti­on that the extra bur­don on the local flight hand­ling capa­ci­ties did usual­ly not bene­fit the local com­mu­ni­ty as Bar­neo tou­rists would usual­ly not stay in Lon­gye­ar­by­en. The­se are among­st the main argu­ments for the Nor­we­gi­an traf­fic minis­try, accor­ding to Sval­bard­pos­ten.

The Swiss Bar­neo com­pa­ny may still take legal steps against this decis­i­on.

Newest mem­ber sta­te of the Spits­ber­gen Trea­ty: Tur­key

The Spits­ber­gen Trea­ty was signed in 1920 and it came into force in 1925. It sea­led Nor­we­gi­an sove­reig­n­ty over the Sval­bard archi­pe­la­go (the name “Sval­bard” was not used in the trea­ty) and regu­la­tes access for citi­zens of trea­ty mem­ber sta­tes.

Spitzbergenvertrag: Wedel Jarlsberg, Paris 1920

Fre­d­rik Wedel Jarls­berg, the Nor­we­gi­an nego­tia­tor in Paris,
signed the Spits­ber­gen Trea­ty on 09th Febru­ary 1920 in Ver­sailles.

A ran­ge of count­ries have joi­n­ed the trea­ty sin­ce 1925. Until recent­ly, Lat­via and North Korea (!) had been the latest new mem­bers. Both joi­n­ed the trea­ty in 2016.

In April 2024, howe­ver, Anka­ra rati­fied their signa­tu­re under the Spits­ber­gen Trea­ty. Sin­ce then, Tur­key is the latest signa­to­ry coun­try.

This will not chan­ge much in real life: Nor­way does not make a dif­fe­rence bet­ween citi­zens of mem­ber sta­tes and tho­se from other count­ries. The­re are, for exam­p­le, more than 200 peo­p­le from Thai­land and the Phil­li­pi­nes living in Lon­gye­ar­by­en. Their respec­ti­ve count­ries of ori­gin are not mem­bers of the Spits­ber­gen trea­ty.

Tur­key appears to be inte­res­ted on a dif­fe­rent level, as the Barents Obser­ver wri­tes: recent­ly in July, a dele­ga­ti­on from Tur­key visi­ted Pyra­mi­den, a for­mer Rus­si­an coal mining sett­le­ment in Isfjord, to look at the poten­ti­al of run­ning a rese­arch faci­li­ty the­re. Rus­sia has announ­ced plans to deve­lop Pyra­mi­den as an alter­na­ti­ve to Ny-Åle­sund, whe­re a ran­ge of count­ries run rese­arch faci­li­ties under Nor­we­gi­an lea­der­ship.

Page of the week: Sjuøya­ne

Sjuøya­ne is the page of the week. This page is dedi­ca­ted to the litt­le archi­pe­la­go of ‘The Seven Islands’, which are the very nor­t­hern­most islands and islets of the Sval­bard archi­pe­la­go.

The page has exis­ted for years, but I have impro­ved it signi­fi­cant­ly now with new map, images and pho­to gal­lery and the text has also got a cou­ple of updates. When I work on the tra­vel blog, lin­king places that we just visi­ted to the­se pages, I like to make updates and impro­ve­ments as I stumb­le over older pages that need some love.

Phippsøya

Phippsøya, the lar­ges island of Sjuøya­ne.

Sjuøya­ne have some fasci­na­ting land­scape and they are a fasci­na­ting area to visit if all works out, but it can cer­tain­ly be chal­ling to get the­re, let alo­ne to get ashore. If get­ting the­re is not available in real life, then a vir­tu­al trip the­re is just one mou­se click away 😀

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