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Yearly Archives: 2024 − News & Stories
Svalbard geopolitics: recommended presentation
Svalbard geopolitics – a big thing. How is it really about sovereignty, is Svalbard really part of Norway or some kind of international area? How is it with the Russian settlements, what kind of ideas might Putin have, and what about the sea areas … big questions. And there are a lot of misunderstandings about them out there.
I have written a lot about all of that on these pages, it is not about repeating these contents here. It is about a presentation that was held last night (Tuesday, 08 October) and that you can see on Youtube (click here). If this link does not work, then copy
https://polarshort.de/90jiu
and paste it into your browser. In any case, start at 37 minutes, it is the complete livestream that was started well before the actually presentation actually started
This includes a good bit of what you should know about Svalbard geopolitics.
The presentation by Andreas Østhagen from the Fridtjof Nansen Institute explains the politics and clears some common misunderstandings. After a break (fast forward the Youtube version), Tiril Vold Hansen from the Nord University offers her perspective on recent issues including new regulations for tourism. Interesting stuff. Then mayor Terje Aunevik rounds the evening off.
The presentations were arranged by Svalbard Museum. Thank you for that!
Barentsburgians become Svalbardians
It is, to start with, just an administrative act: the inhabitants of Barentsburg are now being registered by Norwegian authorities in the register of inhabitants of Svalbard. Until now, this was only done for inhabitants of Longyearbyen; now this practice will also be used in the other settlements. Next to Barentsburg and Pyramiden, this also includes the Polish research station in Hornsund and Ny-Ålesund, in any case provided a minimum stay of half a year for anyone to be registered as a local.
Norwegian authorities want a better overview of who is living in Svalbard. In exchange, those registered as locals do get certain rights, including more opportunities within fishing and hunting, wider-ranging rights to travel freely over larger parts of the archipelago and no environmental fee on flight tickets to Longyearbyen (which is generally included in any flight ticket to Longyearbyen). Locals can also buy a hut or flat; something that is, however, likely to remain a dream for most, considering that there are hardly any offers and, if any, prices are usually beyond of what most can pay.
Locals in Barentsburgs. Reindeer will, however not be registered.
For many however, it may make a difference to get a personal number (for non-Norwegian citizens: a so-called D-number) which is essential for things like opening a bank account in Norway, getting a mobile phone contract or pretty much any kind of insurance, register a car or snow mobile or being able to use the payment app Vipps which is very common in Norway. Some may also appreciate the opportunity to buy alcohol more freely in Longyearbyen.
According to information provided by the Russian mining comany Trust Arktikugol, there are as of 01 September 340 people living in the Russian settlements, by far most of them in Barentsburg. Amongst there, there are 202 men, 109 women and 29 children. 219 people have Russian passports and 57 are Ukrainians. In addition, there are 62 Tajiks, one Kazakh and one person from South Africa, according to Svalbardposten.
Missing yacht Kobben back in Norway
Good news, for a change! The little motor sailing Kobben is back in Norway, the man on board is in good condition, considering all circumstances.
Kobben had left mainland Norway on 13 September with course for Longyearbyen but never arrived. A major search and rescue operation was started with major resources, including several helicopters, fixed-winged aircraft and ships, but the search did not yield any result. Due to a lack of any information about the boats whereabouts, the whole sea area between north Norway and Spitsbergen had to be searched. The operation was abandoned after several days, and the worst was feared due to stormy weather in the relevant period.
The yacht Kobben is back in Norway (photo: Norwegian SAR authority).
On Friday (27th September), Kobben was finally close enough to land, the islands of Vesterålen in north Norway, for the man on board to contact his family by mobile phone who could then inform the SAR authority. The boat had engine troubles and was towed into the port of Andenes, as NRK reports. One can only suspect that communication equipment on board was insufficient or malfunctioning or both. But that’s details, questions others may ask when the time is up for it – most importantly, the man is back home and well. He is said to have done the crossing between Norway and Spitsbergen more than 40 times.
Missing motor yacht Kobben most likely lost
The SAR (search and rescue) operation for the motor sailing yacht Kobben is discontinued without result, and it appears more than likely that the boat met a tragic end at sea.
The missing yacht Kobben in mainland Norway (photographer unknown).
Kobben left north Norway on Friday, September 13, with course for Longyearbyen, but the boat never arrived. After departure, there was no further contact that could give an indication about the whereabouts or fate of the boat. The crew was one man, a Norwegian of +70 years who is said to have had considerable regional sailing experience.
Kobben did not have an AIS system that could have sent a position by radio signals. The lack of any information made the whole Barents Sea from mainland Norway to Longyearbyen including south Spitsbergen an area that SAR forces had to work their way through, which was done with helicopters, fixed-wing aircraft and ships. But now the search is discontinued, Kobben is still missing and there is little hope for her brave single-handed sailor.
The weather has been quite stormy in the relevant area and period of time.
This year’s final Spitsbergen sailing blog
Mon
23 Sep
2024
The last day of the voyage, the last day “Spitsbergen under sail” in 2024. In Ekmanfjord and Dicksonfjord. We started at Flintholmen, a perl of arctic nature and scenery.
Then we cruised Dicksonfjord. There was this gut feeling … and yes, we did see polar bears, during the very last miles of the trip! What a luck, everybody was so happy. They were pretty far away, no frame-filling photos, but that didn’t matter, it was really about the experience of having seen them in the wild. The real thing. The distance was a good 500 m, and this is, by the way, the distance required by law from 2025 during spring (until end of June; from July it’s 300 m and all this is valid within Svalbard’s 12 mile zone).
A few hours later we were back in Longyearbyen, and thus this beautiful trip came to an end. It was farewell and goodbye, on various levels. This was my very last trip with good old Antigua in Spitsbergen, after more than 30 since 2010. We went many miles together and the part of this voyage that happens in Spitsbergen waters is over now. But we’ll meet again, quite soon actually, in a few weeks in north Norway 🙂
And it was my very last Spitsbergen voyage under the current legal regime. A lot will change next year (more information here). Beyond the required distances from polar bears (see above), we won’t be able to go ashore anymore as freely as we can so far. We will still be able to do good and interesting voyages from 2025, but they will be different. Maybe even better in certain ways. Less pressure to sail to remote areas, less miles, more time to go hiking etc. Not a bad thing in itself. I would very much prefer it to be a matter of my own choice, though (and not – sorry – the choice of some idiots far away, there is simply no expertise in these new laws, just office table bullshit. Sorry, I get carried away, but it is tuff stuff).
So Svalbard life will continue also next year and beyond as far as we can tell now, but it will be different. A lot will be lost especially for those who have been around for a while, those who know the place. We have done well on this trip, visiting places like Fjerdebreen on the west coast, Idunneset in Wahlenbergfjord, Zeipelodden in Palanderbukta and Moffen. All of them will not be accessible anymore from 2025 – unless you come on a private trip. Which is ridiculous, of course; who comes to such remote places on a private trip?
I am privileged to have been around here, and I am grateful for that.
Thank you, Antigua! Thank you for being such a great, such an enjoyable part of this journey! The ship, the crew that made it all possible, everybody who was part of it and made it so enjoyable. Thank you for now, all the best and see you again, anywhere between the poles!
Photo gallery Isfjord: Ekmanfjord & Dicksonfjord – 22nd September 2024
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3314
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
Isfjord: Alkhornet & Borebreen
Mon
23 Sep
2024
Back in Isfjord! Good thing, we still had plans here. Starting with the tundra paradise at Alkhornet with plenty of good looking reindeer, an arctic fox, two ptarmigans and a curiously parked Sysselmester boat.
We spent the afternoon at Borebreen, a mightily impressive glacier due to its current advance. The turning iceberg was just as impressive.
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More InformationTurning iceberg at Borebreen. Video by Burkhard Heller – thank you! 🙂
And Piet and the service crew showed what they are really capable of in the evening. Yet another highlight on this day which was not poor in highlights at all. Now we were just curious if we would manage to see a polar bear tomorrow, on the very last full day of this trip …
Photo gallery Isfjord: Alkhornet & Borebreen – 21st September 2024
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3311
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
St. Jonsfjord
Sat
21 Sep
2024
After a long passage during the night we reached St. Jonsfjord exactly in time after breakfast to enjoy a lovely morning mountain hike with stunning glacier views.
In the afternoon we made a tundra walk at Gjertsenodden, enjoying the sun.
Photo gallery St. Jonsfjord: Valentinsryggen, Gjertsenodden – 20th September 2024
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3309
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
Moffen, Sallyhamna, Smeerenburgbreen
Fri
20 Sep
2024
Wednesday ended with landing on Moffen (for anything before that, see previous blog). Cool! Moffen is a very special place and certainly one that you don’t get to too often.
It turned out to be good to continue to Holmiabukta in northwest Spitsbergen for anchoring. The wind picked up quite considerably at the north coast. Time to move on. But we were in the right place and we got a lovely morning at Sallyhamna and Sabineodden.
The afternoon was quite windy, but we finished it in a rather spontaneous and very cool way at Smeerenburgbreen.
Photo gallery – Moffen, Sallyhamna, Smeerenburgbreen – 18th/19th September 2024
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3306
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
Hinlopen Strait: Wahlbergøya, Murchisonfjord
Wed
18 Sep
2024
Again, it is foggy in Hinlopen Strait. It was just enough to visit the walruses on Wahlbergøya. And they were in pretty good mood 🙂
Then – fog, fog. We didn’t see the sky again until we reached Murchisonfjord in the evening. Full moon above the mountains. The nights are getting darker and darker now.
A night at anchor in Weaselbukta is something quite special in itself. And so is a hike on Nordaustland, namely Roaldtoppen in this case.
Now we have set course for moffen. In thick fog …
Gallery – Hinlopen Strait: Wahlbergøya, Murchisonfjord – 17th/18th September 2024
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3303
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
Wahlenbergfjord: Idunneset & Palanderbukta
Mon
16 Sep
2024
The wonderful, remote Nordaustland! „Remote“ is a relative term of course. But in the eyes of someone who started discovering Spitsbergen by hiking from the settlements, it is kind of the dark side of the moon (and we did stretch the boundaries pretty far back then).
So there we were. In Wahlenbergfjord. At Idunneset, to be precise. A lovely hike with great views of the inland ice.
Gyldénøyane did not turn out to be a polar bear paradise this time as on previous occasions. Would have been too good, I guess. Currently the beasts just don’t want to show up. Well, we’ve still got time.
In Palanderbukta, we started a hike in the polar desert, but returned soon because the wind was really starting to blow quite hard.
Gallery – Wahlenbergfjord: Idunneset & Palanderbukta – 16th September 2024
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3300
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
Worsleyhamna
Sun
15 Sep
2024
In Worsleyhamna in Liefdefjord we had a look at Villa Oxford, a real Nøis hut from the 1920s. And we made a lovely little hike to the coast of Woodfjord. On the way we found a memorial for Frank Worsley (Shackleton’s captain on Endurance), which I had somehow never seen before. Who may have put it there? Probably the expedition of George Binney from Oxford in 1924, I suppose.
We made a loop into Mushamna. Everything further north – possibly polar bears, certainly the Ritter hut at Gråhuken – remained pretty much hidden behind low clouds and rain.
Gallery – Worsleyhamna, 15th September 2024
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3297
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
Liefdefjord: Monacobreen & Sørdalen
Sat
14 Sep
2024
We started the day near Lernerøyane in Liefdefjord. A beautiful morning, the air crystal-clear, mirror images on the water. It continued this way at Monacobreen. What a beautiful world! By the way, Monacobreen is currently advancing markedly on its eastern side.
Later it was time to stretch legs a little bit. So we did on Reinsdyrflya, after a visit at the remains of the Kreuzritter weather station from the dark years of the second world war.
Liefdefjord: Monacobreen & Sørdalen – 14th September 2024
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3294
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
West coast: Fjerdebreen & Kobbefjord
Fri
13 Sep
2024
A golden day at the northern west coast, the „Seven icebergs“, Dei Sju Isfjella. One of those rare days when you can actually do a bit more on the wild outer coast between Kongsfjord/Krossfjord and Magdalenefjord than just passing by. We went by Zodiac into the lagoon of Fjerdebreen and spent a sunny morning on the moraine hills near this mighty and very impressive glacier. Stunning!
Later we went into Kobbefjord on the west side of Danskøya. Exactly, that is the place where the tragedy of Møkleby and Simonsen happened in 1922. But what mainly caught our attention were the seals that Kobbefjord owes its name to (Kobbefjord = Seal bay). Harbour seals, to be precise. And a little evening walk with a faint hint of whaling history. And an arctic letterbox.
Gallery: West coast: Fjerdebreen & Kobbefjord, 13th September 2024
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3291
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
Kongsfjord
Thu
12 Sep
2024
Kongsfjord. We had reached Ny-Ålesund during the night and that’s where we also spent the morning. Cold, windy and interesting, as always. With some great views of the Tre Kroner and all the other mountains and glaciers in inner Kongsfjord.
In the afternoon, we got more views of this grand scenery from a closer distance. Stunning. But so is also the glacier ice loss, which has even accelerated in recent years. There is no denying of that.
On the other hand, the amount of ice in Kongsfjord was quite surprising.
The day finished with an amazing sunset in Fjortende Julibukta.
Gallery – 12th September 2024 – Kongsfjord
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3288
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
Forlandsund: Eidembukta & Hermansenøya
Wed
11 Sep
2024
We spent the first full day in Forlandsund, with a wonderful morning in Eidembukta, with the little gorge, green tundra, wide views. It was pretty cold – that’s how it should be on 78 degrees north in mid September.
In the afternoon, we spent some golden hours on Hermansenøya. From the distance, a small, not very exciting looking island. On a closer view, full of interesting and beautiful details.
And the sunset later that evening in northern Forlandsund … stunning!
Photo gallery Forlandsund: Eidembukta & Hermansenøya, 11th September 2024
- gallery anchor link: #gallery_3285
Click on thumbnail to open an enlarged version of the specific photo.
News-Listing live generated at 2024/October/10 at 04:57:01 Uhr (GMT+1)
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